Building your own stabilizer

[_gl]

Plastic ball heads: I've noticed that the balls in those cheapo mini-tripods have a slightly protruding manufacturing "seam" from when they were cast. Removing this with a scalpel or box cutter blade may improve the smoothness.

Yes, you can see that in my pictures earlier in the thread. Interestingly even the Tesco pod has a little seam, though it's less pronounced - but probably doesn't help.

re. spike, I haven't got anything suitable in the house, next time I'm in town I'll look for one to experiment with.

One thought I had is that instead of a washer, one half of a ball would be better - the wider the handle movement range, the larger the washer needs to be and the more it will point downwards at larger angles, making the 'cage' too big and the 'fall distance' to high. A rounded part would be better. But how would you attach it? I'm not sure soldering would be strong enough. Or how about using a long thin screw thread instead of a plain spike, and just rounding off the top? Then you can use nuts.

BTW, a drill of the right width, ground to a 90 degree angle on a bench grinder would make short work of creating a shallow and symmetrical recess for the needle part of the stabilizer. I would probably be inclined to make a needle with a very slightly rounded tip so it won't dig into the steel above it.

Good idea...

[_gl]

Well I do get a bit, probably same as you, but for me its acceptable for the odd occasion I use the stabilizer.

Fair enough, but it's not good enough for me. I end up instinctively holding the handle at all kinds of weird angles just to avoid sudden movements and it blows my concentration on the shot (and eventually jerks anyway ). The whole point of the gimbal is to remove handle movement, otherwise the $14-type stablizers (just a pole with a weight) would do a similar job (actually better as you can really weigh them down).

I suppose a smaller gimbal with less friction would help as might a diiferent lubricant, I think the WD40 type oils would dry out quickly, maybe light 3in1 type oil may be better.

Any suggestions for good oils? I know nothing about them.

[nzo]

One thought I had is that instead of a washer, one half of a ball would be better

If you can find a suitable flat washer, then find an "anvil" - a solid rounded surface (preferably concave) of roughly the right size to place it on, and form it to shape with a small 'ball peen' hammer with a ball end. Heating the washer to red heat first would make it even easier. Voila! A curved washer complete with hole.

If you mess with the hole size, you could make it so it's slightly less than a "push fit" on the ball/needle shaft, then gently tap it into place with a piece of pipe a bit larger than the ball/needle shaft. That way it will grip the shaft firmly, can be fine-tuned positionally and finally soldered to the shaft. I think solder is plenty strong, since any shocks in that area will be very slight.

[_gl]

If you can find a suitable flat washer, then find an "anvil" - a solid rounded surface (preferably concave) of roughly the right size to place it on, and form it to shape with a small 'ball peen' hammer with a ball end. Heating the washer to red heat first would make it even easier. Voila! A curved washer complete with hole.

Good idea, except I have none of those things .

I think solder is plenty strong, since any shocks in that area will be very slight.

If the needle comes off, the washer has to take the whole weight of the rig right?

[nzo]

Good idea, except I have none of those things

In that case, your imagination is your best friend

[northernlanes]

ASDA is selling very cheap mini tripods for this project for only £2.50, they look the same (and metal I think) as the Tesco ones which were more than double this price.

[_gl]

ASDA is selling very cheap mini tripods for this project for only £2.50, they look the same (and metal I think) as the Tesco ones which were more than double this price.

I've been really busy, but I took another good look at the Tesco 'pod joint recently. I'm pretty sure now that it's not sitting on a sprung platform, but actually directly on a spring, and that's what's causing it to catch - you can feel this if you move the ball around whilst pressing down on it.

The ball is resting on a gold ring, but there's a hole in the center, and I bet a spring is just sticking out. The friction of the ball on the ring alone wouldn't be so bad, so the trick would be to remove the spring - but I still can't find any way to open the damn thing. It seems to be sealed at the bottom (if you remove the legs), so the only way is probably via the rotating top part - this should unscrew, or unclip somehow... unless it's designed to clip in by force and never be opened again... ?

[Nahojs]

I had fun with this one - introducing



Inspired by the Hague MMC and northernlanes' excellent plans, this adds a collapsible feature for easy storage.

Changes from nothern's design:

- slightly different shape
- aluminium instead of steel (lighter but requires more weights)
- metal washer instead of nut to fix Tesco tripod to body (more movement)
- collapsible (also allows optional nose weight)
- quick-release shoe bent from aluminium sheet & held by friction only.

Pictures of the construction phases (click for large version):




The paint job didn't work out too well - it chips easily, and the Plastikote lacquer I used sticks to other sprayed surfaces when squeezed together, even days after having dried out (you can prise them apart but that chips the paint more). Avoid Plastikote stuff like the plague. At first I was disappointed, but now I quite like the beaten-up look - it's a hard-wearing bit of kit after all. I may repaint someday, something like Hammerite for a black body, and decent etch-primer + car lacquer for the colours is probably much better.

I'll update this post with more details (+ sample footage) when I get time ...

Hi, Just wondering if this stabilizer works fine, possible to show some video in action?
Where can you purchase the hand grip?

[_gl]

Hi, Just wondering if this stabilizer works fine, possible to show some video in action?

There's a link in post #36. The only issue is with some unwanted friction on the gimbal joint (haven't had a chance to look into it yet).

Where can you purchase the hand grip?

It's a standard bike grip, there are lots of different styles and materials out there and they're pretty cheap.

[undertowmusic]

for the spike pivot maybe something like this would work?

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=240-730

these are designed to hold heavy speakers. so maybe they'll work with our little hv20/30s

it could be screwed into a wooden dowel rod with a bicycle hand grip for the handle.

[undertowmusic]

i have a Hague and the Indiehardware ebay version. both pretty much work the same. although the handle on the indiehardware stabilizer was too small. so i changed the handle to accommodate a bicycle grip.

good lubrication for the ball joint is the same stuff i use on my turntable (record player) spindle. i think you can buy it from any place that sells turntables.

[garrettgibbons]

i have a Hague and the Indiehardware ebay version. both pretty much work the same. although the handle on the indiehardware stabilizer was too small. so i changed the handle to accommodate a bicycle grip.

Thank you for saying that! I've been wondering for quite some time. Might as well go with the Indiehardware.com version.

[brido]

I have just finished my "Ski-balizer" Thank you for the directions and ideas.

Two things.

1. Instead of painting why not use the coloured shrink wrap you can get in electric/electronic stores. It would look just so professional.

2. I have discovered that the HV20 has decided "list to the right" if you use the screw hole under the camera as the centre for mounting the camera on the device. This gave the stabilizer an "inbuilt list" I have moved my screws so that the balance is better (It nearly matches the right hand side of the battery as a "line") This has helped by not having to use the balance angle at the bottom section.

Oh yes a third point now i think of it.
'
3. If you have the folding break in the down bar, I do not think you also need the 3" balance bar at the bottom. As i have played with it i seem to be able to balance it up by moving the folding break left or right. I doubt that i will include the 3" balance section in any future model i might make.

I have still a few things to tweak, but i have a 10 day hospital stay starting Thursday so i wont be able to report on progress.

[_gl]

I have just finished my "Ski-balizer" Thank you for the directions and ideas.

Cool, well done.

1. Instead of painting why not use the coloured shrink wrap you can get in electric/electronic stores. It would look just so professional.

Interesting idea, but wouldn't that cause a lot of friction on the rotating parts?

2. I have discovered that the HV20 has decided "list to the right" if you use the screw hole under the camera as the centre for mounting the camera on the device. This gave the stabilizer an "inbuilt list" I have moved my screws so that the balance is better (It nearly matches the right hand side of the battery as a "line") This has helped by not having to use the balance angle at the bottom section.

Yes, on mine I have to correct quite a bit (but I use some heavy gear so I'm not sure what it's like anymore with the basic camera only), the alu bar wasn't quite wide enough to move the screw slot more to the left.

3. If you have the folding break in the down bar, I do not think you also need the 3" balance bar at the bottom. As i have played with it i seem to be able to balance it up by moving the folding break left or right. I doubt that i will include the 3" balance section in any future model i might make.

I guess it depends on how smooth your joints are, but you do get more fine control at the bottom. I often need minute movements to get the thing in balance, it wouldn't work adjusting the folding break alone.

It's possible that you're using too much weight, which makes it much easier to balance, but will also cause swinging and make it hard to tilt the camera (for looking-up/down shots). When you get a real float, it will drift out of balance really easily.

I have still a few things to tweak, but i have a 10 day hospital stay starting Thursday so i wont be able to report on progress.

Nothing too serious I hope.

[brido]

A bit scary.. a lump on my kidney! We hope it is pre cancerous. I am feeling positive about the outcome. Should only lose part of my kidney.

[_gl]

A bit scary.. a lump on my kidney! We hope it is pre cancerous. I am feeling positive about the outcome. Should only lose part of my kidney.

Best of luck. Hopefully we'll have you back posting pictures of your ski-balizer in no time.

[bluesgeek]

I have still a few things to tweak, but i have a 10 day hospital stay starting Thursday so i wont be able to report on progress.

Get well, Dude Man Guy!

[brido]

Thanks for your good wishes... Went to the cinema to take my mind off tomorrow (Baby Mamma!) This afternoon fiddled with the Ski-balizer.

It is up and running without any nice decoration etc; but I was not happy with the safety of the camera in the case for the tripod attachment (Manfrotto) I did build the turnkey aluminium lock to hold the camera into place, but even with that i was not too happy (I am a clumsy sod at the best of times!) So I drilled a couple of holes and had some thin brass "rod" (?) in the drawer which I have used as securing pins.

Here are some pictures:
I had to take them myself so I ended up sticking it in a vice to hold it!

My weights are lead sinkers boiled up and poured into a "Milo" tin that was lined with oven baking paper. Allowed to cool, drilled and sliced on a bandsaw. Could be neater!

[itsnotaholiday]

I'm pretty sure now that it's not sitting on a sprung platform, but actually directly on a spring, and that's what's causing it to catch - you can feel this if you move the ball around whilst pressing down on it.

The ball is resting on a gold ring, but there's a hole in the center, and I bet a spring is just sticking out. The friction of the ball on the ring alone wouldn't be so bad, so the trick would be to remove the spring - but I still can't find any way to open the damn thing. It seems to be sealed at the bottom (if you remove the legs), so the only way is probably via the rotating top part - this should unscrew, or unclip somehow... unless it's designed to clip in by force and never be opened again... ?

I got the tesco tripod and in the name of science, I took the hammer to it

1. the head isnt designed to come apart the top piece is inside the bigger section and is secured by a plastic ring inside a recess.
I think i might be possible to re-assemble, however the taking apart it tricky. The metal is soft, and easily bent out of shape.

2. the ring you speak of is a cup. The cup has a tapered end. As you tighen the locking nut the end of that thread pushes goesd against the tapered end pushing the cup up, locking the ball.

3. there must be a spring, or at least there was, during the delicate procedure (aka hitting with a hammer) it went awol.
I dont think the spring is between the ball and socket. Although I dont know for sure.


I think its down to its being cheap tripod head.
Im gonna try to source a "proper" ball joint, I have looked car ones, but they are too big and heavy.....

cant find any locally as yet... however..... this looks interesting

http://www.igus.co.uk/

[_gl]

I got the tesco tripod and in the name of science, I took the hammer to it

Good man - I was too cheap to think of that .

1. the head isnt designed to come apart

Any chance you could take some pictures? I can't quite picture it all.

Im gonna try to source a "proper" ball joint, I have looked car ones, but they are too big and heavy.....
cant find any locally as yet... however..... this looks interesting

Keep at it, with a good gimbal we're laughing.

[benkrebs]

... a "Milo" tin ...

good lord i miss that stuff!

[itsnotaholiday]

there you go...... the thread from the ball snapped off on impact. The main reason it wont go back together is cos I squashed it in the vice
could try hitting a nail though the hole the legs screw into....but still need to secure the bigger part, that doesnt squash quite as easy.

The ball is pitted and pretty rough on the contact area and the cup isnt precision engineered either. However some of that is my doing. I tried some sillicon lube, but I think there is only so much good lube can do, well thats what she said

[Joonyah]

Looks like an awesome idea, I'll have to try it. But, since it uses a ball, wouldn't that make panning and tilting difficult? I suppose it's not that big of a deal to use your other hand to do that.

[_gl]

Looks like an awesome idea, I'll have to try it. But, since it uses a ball, wouldn't that make panning and tilting difficult? I suppose it's not that big of a deal to use your other hand to do that.

You do that by guiding the floating structure with your thumb and index finger, at the point where the gimbal is secured to the frame. When you get the weights right, the center of gravity is roughly at that point (that's why it 'floats'), so you only need a very light touch.

[Sminc]

I should be near-perfect. But I can't think how you'd secure it off-hand. Do you have a picture or link for those valves?

If I could get into the Tesco 'pod maybe I could improve it - but I don't see how it opens.

Didn't read the whole thread so sorry if this is useless info -- but maybe a small spring or shape-retaining wire?

Sminc