"Generic" anamorphic screen grab

[HV20_Likeable]

Hey, I think you should install the achromat before everything else (I mean, on top of the anamorphic adapter, or at the farthest point from your sensor.) Achromats are more expensive than diopters. You might want to experiment with diopter sets first. Get a 72mm or 77mm diopter set. Vadis says that 72mm seems to work fine. Maybe get it and if it doesn't work, return and order a different size.

I think these little lenses are well worth it. Using the right aperture range and focal length on your primes you can get excellent results. And the flares look very filmic (always seem to be blue, just like what seems to be the norm in Hollywood nowadays )

Hmmm interesting, but I am abit confused with that, because if you add it ontop of everything, how it is going to remove or improve the image if it's not filtering everything ontop of it? instead, its ontop of everything else.

Also with 'Diopters', I think I am slightly misinformed, because isnt 'Diopters' a unit of measurement? If so, what kind of lens exactly are you referring to when you mention Diopters...corrective lens or an actual achromat lens at different measurements of diopters?

Also, I came across this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Edmund-Sci...item19bb4acc23

I dont know if this would be helpful or anything???

Well, the Tokina doublet which is what Kostas was using in that video I posted before is only +0.4, which means you do lose infinity but the magnification is not too bad. If you get a +1, +2, +4 diopter set (not achromat) you get magnification from +1 to +7 by stacking different diopters together.

As far as the achromat only removing CA from itself, I'm quite sure that's not true. Otherwise, why would achromats exist? What better to remove CA from an achromat than not use it? Look at that video test I posted before, it does seem to work!

This is what I thought as well, I always thought that was the point of Achromatic lenses, in addition that it would remve CA from its own structure.

[HV20_Likeable]

Hmmm, anyone at all may I ask?

Sorry if I might've sounded abit noobish or annoying

I assume also this Tokina achromatic is not available anymore?

[MalfunctioningHuman]

This is a link to the Tokina achromat: http://www.redstan.com/index.php?rou...&product_id=40

At least I think it's Tokina, you might want to ask redstan about it.

As for the close up (diopter) lenses, I meant something like this: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...lass_Lens.html

That test video that I pointed out before has a lot of information.

[HV20_Likeable]

Ahhh okay then, I tried doing abit of research myself, and it seems that 'Diopters' are Close-up or Macro lenses which tends to have a special glass quality, am I correct on this matter perhaps?

That Tokina achromat you have linked me, isnt that essentially a Macro lens that was constructed with two glasses (doublet) which effectively works as an Achromat?

I have looked upon that test video again and read into it more. it seems that the Tokina +0.4 seems very strong on its own, I assume a +1 of the same glass would yield superior results?

But also looking into it, they all seem to attach the lens onfront of the anamorphic adapter, while yes it seems to correct the problem, I just cant figure out how it's doing so, because it's not exactly filtering the anamorphic lens which should go before it and not after, thought I could be wrong, hasnt anyone tried this? Either way, wouldnt one assume that it would give a much cleaner picture?

[MalfunctioningHuman]

Ahhh okay then, I tried doing abit of research myself, and it seems that 'Diopters' are Close-up or Macro lenses which tends to have a special glass quality, am I correct on this matter perhaps?

That Tokina achromat you have linked me, isnt that essentially a Macro lens that was constructed with two glasses (doublet) which effectively works as an Achromat?

I have looked upon that test video again and read into it more. it seems that the Tokina +0.4 seems very strong on its own, I assume a +1 of the same glass would yield superior results?

But also looking into it, they all seem to attach the lens onfront of the anamorphic adapter, while yes it seems to correct the problem, I just cant figure out how it's doing so, because it's not exactly filtering the anamorphic lens which should go before it and not after, thought I could be wrong, hasnt anyone tried this? Either way, wouldnt one assume that it would give a much cleaner picture?

Sorry I can't be of much more help. All I know is what I have been reading around, and I still haven't got the diopter set for my anamorphic adapter

Kostas (the guy that created that video) is the guy to talk about these questions, he has done lots of tests and is very knowledgeable.

I don't understand why the achromat works in front of the lens either, but it seems to do the job. If you trust your own eyes watch that video again.

I personally am not going to spend $300.00 on an achromat for this lens. It's just too much for me at the moment. But I will definitely get the close-up diopter set at some point.

Another thing I have thought about is cropping from 1080p to 720p in post, just retaining the center of the image. I know it's not optimal, but it's just something else to try. Or, enjoy the chromatic aberration and softness towards the edges as distinct features of this lens that give it some of its character.

[vadis]

Using my "generic" aka Soligor anamorphic lens (with a 50mm Nikon E) on my 550d I found that it didn't show any trace of moire, and just the slightest hint of aliasing in one spot, where I thought that both would be a problem (cityscape, buildings, rooftops, bright sunlight, f8 aperture). I then took shots of the same scene with a range of lenses (vintage and modern, including the anamorphic in front of a 24mm Nikkor), all of them moired and aliased noticeably to varying degrees. If a choice were to be made for this landscape shot, I would choose the very slight edge softness of the anamorphic/E over the other possiblities. I don't know whether this represents a very particular set of conditions and anamorphic/prime combination, and will try testing in other circumstances.

[vadis]

After putting the "generic" away for a while, I have experimented with it again, with surprising results.

Combining it with a mk3 opens new possibilities. First, the iso of the mk3 can be cranked way up, allowing for the use of a low aperture. For instance, an f8/iso 3200 and up combination is workable indoors, and allows for a 1.5m focus distance with a 50mm lens. You can get even closer with a 35mm lens, but unfortunately it will vignette.

Second, I tried a 72mm +1 (generic ebay) diopter attached by tape, with which you can obtain sharp focus 40cm away, with surprisingly acceptable picture quality. Third, with a mk3, the image shows no visible aliasing (which is quite distracting on the generic/t2i combo).

The anamorphic still exhibits some of its problems (soft edge focus, albeit greatly diminished at f8-11, and a touch of chromatic aberration), but when used on a mk3 becomes serviceable for some shots rather than just a novelty for "tests" only. I plan to put up some footage in a short while.