GH1 with hack, or second HV20?

[drapeama]

Well it arrived yesterday, but I'm still waiting in an adapter so I can put my lens on it. [..] Also bought a Sandisk Extreme Class 10 16gb card for 55 bucks

1) Too bad to have to check it without the ability to use it...:'(
2) I'd check for a transcend one, 16gb or 32gb...I've been surprises that it surpassed my Kingston's performances, even if it's supposed to be a cheaper brand...you should check, they're cheap in price, but well rated and mine works like a charm. Paid mine 107$ for a 32gb while it can be bought for half of the price, but I wanted it the same day I got my T2i so...everything has a price, my patience worth paying the double...I should learn one of these day...

[Daniel Rutter]

I should learn one of these day...

Hehe yeah, me doing this with the lens adapter and such is me actually pacing myself. When the GH1 arrived yesterday, I was in the middle of doing housework. I put the box on my desk in my office, and went and finished doing the housework...
Pacing myself. Signs of growing up I think :P

[Daniel Rutter]

So, my GH1 arrived and I've now got my lens adapter and a working Nikkor lens. I only just installed the hack after taking the camera out today for a few snapshots and some video recording.

Needless to say, the footage I shot today tells me my camera will be useless for handheld filming. I'm heading out tomorrow with my newly hacked camera to test some things, including shoulder rig useage and finding a way to match recorded images with my HV30.

[drapeama]

Keep us updated, and feel free to post some footage too, I'm curious!
I should try to "match" both of my T2i and HV40.

[net]

Needless to say, the footage I shot today tells me my camera will be useless for handheld filming.

yeh, rolling shutter is bad even with a Panasonic lens and OIS. You could move very slowly hand-held or with a monopod.
Otherwise, tripod shots all the way,

[drapeama]

yeh, rolling shutter is bad even with a Panasonic lens and OIS. You could move very slowly hand-held or with a monopod.
Otherwise, tripod shots all the way,

Better than this: use the HV30 and match both footage in post!

[Daniel Rutter]

Well, my HV30 is still going to be used... the main reason I got the GH1 was to become my A-cam and use it for any shallow-DOF shots and other closeups. Anything requiring major handheld work will still be done by my HV.

Going out today to shoot some footage. It'll probably be random stuff (nothing majorly interesting).

[Bif]

Daniel, you're going to find going shoulder mount should be a lot better. The one lens you have should be used at the 28mm end of the zoom range, that will give you the full frame film equivalent of a 56mm lens focal length. This is in the "normal" range of what used to come with a lot of film cameras.

Wide angle will be a lot easier to manage shoulder mounted with less unwanted movement but right now the widest you have for that camera is that 28mm ("normal") and that may take some practice to keep it smooth. I've had good luck with a 38mm equivalent lens and the 7D on a SpiderBrace.

For what you want to do I still recommend that 14-45mm Panasonic ($299) at B&H. It is being replaced by a cheaper built version, the 14-42mm f3.5 to f5.6 ($174 right now at B&H). If you're strapped for cash the 14-42 seems like what you need for now.

I would do something like this (at only $174) and have the GH1 features fully functional for basic, general purpose video. Only downside is f3.5 max aperture and that only at the wide end, so low light will be a bit of a challenge. Here is where you should look for something like the Nikkor 50mm f1.8 since you have that adapter.

But I would look at that 14-42 Panasonic (the 14-45 is built more solid but if you take care of the lower priced one it can serve you well). It puts you in the same situation as those of use who sometimes use the Canon "kit" lens.

The price...

Bruce Foreman

[Daniel Rutter]

Daniel, you're going to find going shoulder mount should be a lot better.

Well, I tried it with some hacked settings. General slow pans made my images skew ever so slightly, but the image didn't "break up" (pixellate). Without the hack, it was a different story. I'm screwing with bitrates at the moment, trying to find nice comfortable number. Although I'm using a cheapo class 4, I'm surprisingly able to run 50mbps (though it doesn't sit at that, it fluctuates) without it dying. This is AVCHD mind oyu, not motion JPEG.

Wide angle will be a lot easier to manage shoulder mounted with less unwanted movement but right now the widest you have for that camera is that 28mm ("normal") and that may take some practice to keep it smooth. I've had good luck with a 38mm equivalent lens and the 7D on a SpiderBrace.

Yup, I've only shot video 4 times since I got it. First time was handheld, second was with my shoulder brace... works alright, as mentioned.

For what you want to do I still recommend that 14-45mm Panasonic ($299) at B&H. It is being replaced by a cheaper built version, the 14-42mm f3.5 to f5.6 ($174 right now at B&H). If you're strapped for cash the 14-42 seems like what you need for now.

Agreed. I'm inclined to go a 50mm f1.8, but a wideangle would make more sense right now. I might go a prime with decent f stop rather than a zoom, unless you recommend sticking with zooms?

I would do something like this (at only $174) and have the GH1 features fully functional for basic, general purpose video.

Good point. I'm using a completely manual lens at the moment and I'm lost. Maybe playing with a good lens would be a better idea until I get a hang of the settings.

Thanks Bruce, appreciate the help you're always giving me.

[Bif]

Although I'm using a cheapo class 4, I'm surprisingly able to run 50mbps (though it doesn't sit at that, it fluctuates) without it dying. This is AVCHD mind you, not motion JPEG.

Next card you get, try a Class (6) Transcend as a second choice to SanDisk. My HF100's are getting along fine on Class (4) SanDisk and PNY media recording AVCHD. Just a suggestion in case the "cheapo" is holding you back a bit. It may be OK.

Yup, I've only shot video 4 times since I got it. First time was handheld, second was with my shoulder brace... works alright, as mentioned.

The 28mm end of the lens you have is wide angle on full frame Nikons but on your camera it's "normal", about like the single prime we used to get with most film cameras. You can hold it somewhat steady with practice but it's not as "forgiving" as a wide angle.

Agreed. I'm inclined to go a 50mm f1.8, but a wideangle would make more sense right now. I might go a prime with decent f stop rather than a zoom, unless you recommend sticking with zooms?

The one zoom I recommend you stick with and get quickly, too, is either that 14-45 or 14-42 (both Panasonic).

Why?

With the "micro four thirds" sensor you have, that 14mm is going to be the widest your going to find that is affordable. Even in the "vintage" market anything shorter that 28mm is going to start getting expensive. Shorter than 24mm much more so. It can be a confusing "numbers game" but the 28mm end of the lens you have performs on your camera like a 56mm focal length would as far as field of view. On most film cams sold several decades ago the standard "normal" lens was a 50mm (Minolta and a few others put a 55mm on theirs).

The "field of view" on these fairly closely matches what you get with the 28mm end of your Nikkor zoom, while the 14mm end of the Panasonic actually gives you wide angle "field of view".

In looking for a wide angle prime, even in vintage glass, you'll "run into a wall". A quick look I had at 20mm returned prices in the hundreds (for max aperture of f2.8), looking for shorter...

...Lotsa luck.

So for now your best bet is the Panasonic "kit" lens even if you have to settle for that $174 one but I'd move fast before that price changes.

And start saving for the Panasonic Lumix 20mm f1.7 "pancake" lens. Here is what one reviewer had to say: There aren't too many options for fast primes for micro 4/3rds. This is a nice little compact and lightweight 40mm equivalent that performs similarly to most of the cheap 50mm f/1.8 primes out...

The 20mm will perform like a 40mm on full frame, giving you a "short normal" perspective which with a max aperture of f1.7 should prove VERY USEFULL!

Good point. I'm using a completely manual lens at the moment and I'm lost. Maybe playing with a good lens would be a better idea until I get a hang of the settings.

Try this: Assuming you can set shutter, aperture, and ISO independent of each other, set shutter to 1/50th, set aperture to desired setting for effect desired, and see where the ISO wants to be. "Dial" that value in manually if possible and see where that takes you. Let me know how it works out.

Thanks Bruce, appreciate the help you're always giving me.

Just trying to help a bit.

Bruce Foreman

[Daniel Rutter]

Next card you get, try a Class (6) Transcend

I actually bought a Sandisk Extreme class 10, Would you recommend sticking with these? They're pretty cheap, I'm happy to buy a few more.

So for now your best bet is the Panasonic "kit" lens even if you have to settle for that $174 one but I'd move fast before that price changes.

Alright, I'll make that my next purchase. I have a grip and two batteries also on the list of things to get, but I think I can get by with my one battery for now (I'm not shooting events with this camera just yet) and just stick to buying lenses. As I've mentioned, I really want to get something good for low light as well, so after I purchase this 14-42... you recommend the 20mm? Is there something in the nikon/canon range I can get that's more affordable and good for low-light. I don't want to catch the LBA bug, I just want a small (i.e 3-4) selection of lenses that will serve well as both photo and video lenses.

Thanks again Bruce!

[net]

I actually bought a Sandisk Extreme class 10, Would you recommend sticking with these? They're pretty cheap, I'm happy to buy a few more.

Those are the best to use with the GH1 hack.
If you can even get the 45MB/s version, even better.

[Daniel Rutter]

If you can even get the 45MB/s version

Couldn't find those ones, but at 55 bucks a card I think these guys are a steal.

[net]

Couldn't find those ones, but at 55 bucks a card I think these guys are a steal.

yeh, I have the ones you have, too. Gonna last forever.

[Bif]

I actually bought a Sandisk Extreme class 10, Would you recommend sticking with these? They're pretty cheap, I'm happy to buy a few more.

Best choice you can make for right now. I was assuming SanDisk might be too expensive, right now that's all I use in DSLRs.

I really want to get something good for low light as well, so after I purchase this 14-42... you recommend the 20mm? Is there something in the nikon/canon range I can get that's more affordable and good for low-light. I don't want to catch the LBA bug, I just want a small (i.e 3-4) selection of lenses that will serve well as both photo and video lenses.

Thanks again Bruce!

The 20mm will not have you "backing off" so much, and as a general purpose, all around prime will be more flexible. Takes a bit to get used to not having a zoom to frame with but once you make that adjustment, you'll appreciate that lens. You'll be able to get a lot closer to people and work in smaller rooms than with the 28mm end of what you have now.

More affordable? I'd go for something like this Nikkor series E 50mm f1.8 AI :http://cgi.ebay.com/MINTy-NIKON-NIKK...item2c5dc7a818

Or this one: http://cgi.ebay.com/Nikon-Nikkor-50m...item3cb9baf116

The second is identical to the one I had and used with a Nikon to EOS adapter on the T1i I used to have. And the first one is identical to what I had on 3 Nikon EM cameras I sent my "party photographers" out with. Short and compact but was a nice crisp lens.

The wide aperture on both is excellent for low light but the 50mm will be the full frame equivalent of a 100mm "portrait" length lens, excellent for single person or two person shot in narrative work as long as you have enough "working distance". Excellent "bokeh" but the working distance in smaller rooms and "tight" locations will be problematic. These Nikkor's will be affordable and I would go for one of these, but you will also NEED the 20mm and it's low light capability will be pretty much identical to the f1.8 Nikkors.

Which ones you go for first you'll have to decide but here's a summary:

* 14-42mm Panasonic (f3.5-5.6) wide angle to limited telephoto range. Good general purpose "kit" zoom. All GH1 functions work.

* 20mm Panasonic f1.7. "Normal" close to the middle of the range of the 14-42. General purpose prime but with outstanding low light capability. All GH1 functions work.

* 50mm Nikkor AI or AI-S f1.8, inexpensive portrait perspective with excellent low light. You could dispense with this because you have the focal length covered with both the 14-42mm and the Nikkor 28-80 you already have. But neither of those two will be as excellent for low light as the f1.8 at that setting. And since the 50mm f1.8 seems to be running just under $100 I put it on the list.

And for longer telephoto reach, the 80mm end of the Nikkor you already have will have the same field of view as a 160mm on full frame so between the 3 I recommend and the one you already have you should be well covered.

Bruce Foreman

[drapeama]

If you can even get the 45MB/s version, even better.

Talking about 45MB/s, the transcend class10 are great too for the price and hold well that bitrate on the T2i.

[kenkyusha]

+1 for the class 10 cards.

Another alternative for inexpensive lenses: look for older cameras- I found a Nikon F3 body for $60... that happened to come with a 50mm f1.4 on it. The F3 needed a battery, but hey, for the price...

Also, if there is a Craigslist for major metro areas that you ever have occasion to visit, you can keep an eye out for deals... it might be worth contriving a trip if you have the money but can save a some chunk of dough.

[Bif]

Talking about 45MB/s, the transcend class10 are great too for the price and hold well that bitrate on the T2i.

The class (10) will be more like 30MB/s which is more than adequate for the T2i (I had a couple of Class (6) 20MB/s cards {SanDisk} that worked well in the T2i and in the 60D.

The Transcend cards have evidenced a tendency to "slow down" and experience "buffer overrun" if not formatted in camera before each new project. SanDisk will not do this anywhere near as quickly as some Transcend cards have done. Eventually SanDisk users will run into the same problem further down the road if files are merely deleted and the card not formatted in camera regularly.

The 45MB/s media mentioned are the new SanDisk UH-1 Extreme Pro series. Our current cameras don't really need all that speed but I've been picking up 16GB SDHC Extreme Pro cards at $69 each from B&H.

Maybe a bit of "future proofing".

Bruce Foreman

[drapeama]

The class (10) will be more like 30MB/s which is more than adequate for the T2i...

Sorry I think I (again) confused the SD writting speed with the video bitrate (MB vs Mb)