if anyones good with soldering all you have to do is pop open the remote unsolder the LED and resolder in your own wire to desired length, its extremely easy. thats what i did and it works perfect.
if anyones good with soldering all you have to do is pop open the remote unsolder the LED and resolder in your own wire to desired length, its extremely easy. thats what i did and it works perfect.
o.O I will try this! The good thing is that my father has an electronic and he also sells that OPTICAL CABLE >D Im going to try it myself...
You can buy optical cables in Fry's or online like $3. it's not a big deal
if you would screw a canon lenshood on your wide angle and fix the lanc controller to the handle of your tripod you will notice that the controller works. The signal bounces against the back of the lenshood and the ir-receiver picks up the signal.
remote control
images 01
remote control
images 02
Very cool!
I've got 6 spare toslink cables on the shelf.
Gonna test this right now.
Genius is often an over-used word but Coolj00 I salute you! So simple - shame I didn't read your post before I bought some cable!! Despite that error on my part, I just want to say I have tried your suggestion and it worked perfectly. Thanks for sharing.
I never really thought about it, but I guess it is a food circle, with maggots next. After the cannibals.Originally Posted by fotoman
TOS link cable arrived 10 minutes ago, rigged it up and it works well. To make sure I wasn't getting reflection off the lens hood, as suggested by Cooljoo, I removed that and put a piece of black card between the HV30 and the tripod and - bingo! Worked a treat. So now I have a LANC - thanks to this forum and this thread! Many thanks
Hi guys, can u pls point me the links where you bought the parts for building the Wired controller ?
Thank you
You already have the remote control. You only need a TOSlink cable. Just google it or find it in amazon.
Is this one below fine ?
http://cgi.ebay.com/3-ft-Digital-Aud...item1e5feb8a8a
Do u know where I could buy 1 suction cup ?
Thank you
Last edited by marcolisi; 2010 December 2nd at 23:46.
Wired IR controller - my version
Hi,
I read a few versions of this mod, including the one from Lunchbox. Here's my version:
Now I've moved to a 60D and I wish this would work on it!
Saw your video. You should find a way to tie the plastic piece to the tripod handle so you can operate with just your right hand.
Made my friend
add on to missing lanc project.
Well, i decided to jump in on all of this because i like the idea of having the remote and extension,......i just didn't like having the cable always hooked up to the remote ( you know dangling there all the time). so i took apart an old SB 16 card and unsoldered the phone jack on it, opened the remote, soldered the jack to the IR. Then took an old 1/8 to 1/8 6' cable and removed one end, soldered an IR i got out of an old remote, to one end. and left the 1/8 jack at the other. Now i have a functional remote with no cord attached. and when i need the length i just plug in the jack and Voila i have my extension.
IMG_1859.jpgIMG_1856.jpgIMG_1858.jpgIMG_1855.jpgIMG_1852.jpg
I thought about doing the same thing. Did you leave the original IR light in the remote so you can use it without the cord if you want to? Is there any room in the remote to place the jack somewhere else so it doesn't block the original IR?
Hi Zagnut, yes the original ir is in the remote and fully functional. the jack is right beside the original IR. and fits perfectly. i had to search around a little bit to find the right 1/8 jack module. but after looking around i realized the ones that are on older PCI cards from old soundblaster audio cards. are just the right size. the only problem anyone might run into is that, the jacks are mostly stereo jacks, and have Ground, Pos+ and Neg- Or ground Left/right. how ever you want to look at it. the mono plugs are Shield/ and + meaning only 2 wires. in my case i had a stereo (3 pin) cable and found a Stereo jack i just used the multimeter, to find Tip+ and Sleeve. and soldered on. everything went together in about 5 mins once i had all parts in front of me. As for the remote. i did a quick guesstimate as to the rough size the jack would take, and rather than "cut' out the plastic on the remote. i used the hot soldering iron to melt away the area where the remote would "poke' out. in the above pis it looks a little messy, but rest assured after all was put back together, i used the still heated iron and warmed the plastic up and molded it back into a nice finish. I can now use the remote just like it came out of the box, and when i want length i can mount it to my tripod and use the ir. also if need be, when i need the extra 6' for the crane i have a 1/8 extendion i can just plug into " and i have tested this up to 20' and no delay, and perfect response. Oh a quick note, i sealed the IR at the end of the soldered cable, and the Jack inside the Remote with "plasti-dip. for 2 reasons, 1) for aesthetics, and 2) for eliminating and chance of shorting in the future.
If anyone is interested, i have been playing and testing this idea,....... after taking apart sever "old" camera remotes, i realized i could cut out the Zoom buttons from the old remote (using a jewelers saw) and wire it to the canon remote and make it fully functional. so in essence what i have created is a zoom control that is no larger than 1/4" x 1/4"x1/2. i now have that mounted to my tripod handle, and it much much better than having the whole remote on the handle. the complete (Remote-remote) LOL is perfect and allows me to put the original remote velcro-ed (sp) to the tripod and is much easier to use because it is just the size of my thumb. I can provide Pics, and instructions. and this remote-remote is also not permanently attached, it is removable as well using a 1/8 jack on the side of the remote. it's really hard to explain, but i hope you get the idea.
Cheers,
Slyyde
Thanks Slyyde. I may try a 3/32" jack instead of the standard 1/8'. A smaller plug should mean a smaller jack. Well, in theory anyways.
Absolutely, i was going to go that route. i have a couple of them an 2 spare remotes for the hv40. i think i'm gonna give it a shot this evening. i'll photo document it as i go along and let you know how it turns out. i was thinking of adding. the start/stop/record button as a remote-remote as well so see how it goes.
cheers,
Slyyde
First off, this thread is awesome! Although old news for you guys, I am new here and this is new to me and brilliant
Hi Slyyde, I am interested in how your project went with the start/stop/record and zoom buttons separate from the rest of the remote. How did the project work out? Any photos of the mod steps?
I hope to do your idea, as I would like to install just the record and zoom buttons on the top of a Procam handle, as it will be nice and small. I had an HV20 that decided to go for a swim at the bottom of a lake, so I have the remote from that still. As long as the remote from the HV20 works with the HV40, I can chop up the HV20 remote for the Procam handle. I will not get my HV40 package for another week, I can't wait.
Thanks for all the great ideas everyone. I'm really beginning to like this forum, what a great Google find!
Aaron
There's nothing you can't learn here about the hv series cams.
I'm feeling frisky!
That's true. BTW, I did modified my remote, using just an extension of the wire and soldered the LED on the end of it. Gives you 2 more feet which is plenty enough. I don't see what's the point of having the star/stop&record buttons on a separate remote, as it's already on the remote and there's already everything you need on it. But having them on both the remote and on a separate device (with an extended wire from the original remote) would probably be usefull, to put that external device on the handle and having the whole remote on somewhere else...would be more discrete.
We'll see if he post the pictures.
Actually, I will not use my main remote unless on the tripod, which it rarely is for what I do. Just having three buttons on the top of a handle for function rather than the entire bulky remote would be great. Hopefully it worked out. I'm not sure if I cut off most of the remote, if just the 3 buttons will work, as it will most likely cut off important parts that allow the remote to work.
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote