looking really good keegan you'll be very happy with the monitor its coming along very nicely
looking really good keegan you'll be very happy with the monitor its coming along very nicely
Panasonic AF102, Canon 7D & Canon HV20.
Was on location all day yesterday with the monitor. Amazing. Made such a difference! Easy to check focus, easy for all to see what was going on.
That's the director in the red, not me. I'm behind taking the photos (was 1st AD and editor). Shot yesterday, edited a rough cut today. If you want to take a peek:
Button panel came with the kit from manhattanLCD.com
Last edited by keegan; 2007 December 3rd at 03:26.
Great! Loved the rough cut- can't wait to see the finished piece. So is there much to putting this monitor together? has anyone done a step-by-step or is it pretty much self-evident. Sounds like the enclosure is the main work. How do you find the screen contrast? If used outdoors, I imagine a hood is a must? Thanks for the movie and the pics of the monitor.
How do you have displayed "24p" and "16:9" on your monitor? I can't seem to get that on my screen hen I'm shooting?
Thanks. Nice job.
Looking forward to buying & building one of those.
Please tell me if that Samsung crops any of the edges? Does it show 100% image?
My recollection is that someone here, or maybe at DVXUsers said it trims a tiny bit off the right and left edge, but still for focusing you can't beat the added resolution.
I'm going to try something a little different. A local electronics shop has aluminum project cases of various sizes. I assumed that the 10.4" screen is approximately 9 x 5.6". If anyone could measure the screen I'd appreciate it.
I ordered cap boxes that are pre-ventilated around the edges. (A cap box has a fairly small rim that overlaps the side by 1/2-3/4".) I can cut out holes for the screen to be on the inside and holes for the sockets, plugs, buttons, etc.
The box I ordered is 7" x 11" x 2". You have to order two at a time and pay shipping. I might have one later.
I figured for mounting I can bolt and epoxy a reinforcing bar along three edges and still leave room for air. Maybe a prethreaded bar like a light box bridge or just a 1/4" hole and put a wing nut inside. My other thought is a tilting 1/4" x 20 mount to screw in the bottom of the monitor could be screwed into a steel frame if you're going to mount the camera upside down for a DOF adapter.
My only other question is; How many and what type of buttons does it take? I think I saw 5 on Bruce's. Are these momentary switches? (buttons you push for a second) Does that include the on off switch? I like the rocker for that.
Please advise what is on yours.
Last edited by Duke; 2007 December 9th at 12:40.
The Samsung LCD rough dimensions are W 9.5" x L 6.5"
if you ordered a box thats 7" x 11" x 2", then that should work out just fine.
as far as the button goes, i pm'ed you. it's hard to explain about the buttons without actually seeing them.
Hey, just wondering. I am pretty sure that I am going to be purchasing one of these rigs to use with my HV20/Brevis setup, but I am just wondering what that last little board is that comes with the kit. The one that looks like it has a warning or danger label on it. I see the buttons, the monitor, and the main control board, but what is that last little board? Just wondering. Thanks.
that last small board it the power supply for the LCD.
just as a reminder to anyone who wants to buy this thing, the LCD GET HOT.
so be care when handling.
Some1shero was nice enough to let me look at his kit. The image quality is great and this monitor and will be a big help on focus issues.
Mounting the mother board and power panel should be easy, but I see two mounting issues.
The screen itself does get hot. Epoxy or two sided tape will likely fail with longer use. One person used an S shaped clamp on the edges. With a metal shell this will require some screws through the shell. Does anyone else have ideas about this.
The other issue is the button panel.
a) How to mount it. Some pressure is placed on the buttons. The panel doesn't have stand off mounting holes like the power panel and mother board does. It needs to be supported because of the pressure that will be placed on it. On the other hand there if very little room to make contact to support the board. The circuit tracks go to the edges and the solder points stick out on the back. Any ideas?
b) How to reach the buttons. The momentary buttons are NOT the tallest thing on that board. The capacitor on the end is taller, so the panel can't be flush mounted. Some1shero is planning a sliding button extension to rise up to the shell surface. Any other ideas? Anyone know what Bruce did?
What if new momentary swiitches were mounted directly to the shell and wires soldered onto the button panel? Then the panel wouldn't need the same support.
As a chronic DIY'r, I can pretty much invent a way around those issues...once I have the guts physically infront of me.I may have to get a set to 'team work' these solutions - maybe in real time.
-The screen itself does get hot.- For sure that the 'S' hooks are one solution or better still, a whole bezel 9I really mean frame that grips the edges and mounts onto the box via screws- aluminum sectiona picture frames spring to mind. Don't discount 100% Silicone as an adhesive. I've used it for Years and it's impervious to heat- not to mention some of the industrial adhesives out there that you need a smoke hood to apply.
-the button panel. I'd just plonk it into a dedicated box and silicone that to the outside edge of the main box. An aluminum panel box should be sourced or could be pirated from something else- like dead computer parts for example.
* One question. I'm assuming there's no room to heatsink the back of the screen, so really the box metal (aluminum is better than steel) and the airspace between the screen and the PCB are the only heat relief- right?
Anyone measure the surface temp - 'hot' doesn't mean much to me
The metal edges of the screen are cool enough you can momentarily handle when on, but hot enough you probably wouldn't want to hang on to the screen for a long period of time. No specific measurement done. I think an aluminum box and air flow will be enough of a heat sink.
African Marty just sent an idea about the buttons, I need to check some things first though.
Last edited by Duke; 2007 December 11th at 23:44.
I am getting ready to order my 10.6 kit from manhattanlcd, just wondering about the power adapter ratings for the 12v input on the board. What are you folks using? Does the one on the site work (He says it works on most of the controllers). Basically, if I go to RadioShack, which 12v adapter do I need? I will go to battery supply later, but I will need something to get this thing up and going. Thanks.
I'm new here and in film in general and find this is a great forum (one of my two favorite with the reduser one). I am trying to assemble my own amateur rig around the hv20. Are you guys able to flip the image horizontally and vertically with this DIY lcd? I saw some IKAN screens, a few inch shorter and definitly not the same resolution but which does the flips for the same price.
If not I wonder if some electronically knowledgeable person would be able to tweak the actual DIY Samsung kit to have the best screen ever made at this price?
Thanks and keep up the good work, it's a great learning tool for me as a newbie.
Some1shero and I finally got my cap box together with his electronics, and it is sweet! The screen is only going to leave appox. 1/2-3/4" around the edges of the 7" x 11" x 2" cap box.
There are some corner braces for strength, but the screen fits nicely between them. Plus it is pre-ventilated on all four edges.
I got them from http://action-electronics.com/ (search for cap box). They aren't too expensive, but you have to order two at a time. Total for two was $64.25 including shipping.
Some1shero is considering making it 1.5" tall instead of 2", but I don't think 2" is excessive. Taking off a half inch won't make that much difference, and I think it will allow the mounting points to be stronger if they have more to bite onto. We're also working on a better button mounting system without extending the buttons.
My plan is to add a set of aluminum strips for mounting points with both JB Weld and screws to distribute any torque evenly. I plan on putting a mounting point on all four edges for complete freedom of mounting.
To answer the post above, there is a Flip Hack as described by Jerry Lee. He did a great job with a two dipp switch. I know it flips top to bottom. I don't know if it mirrors. You'll have to search those posts and look at the pictures.
Or, simply mount the monitor upside down as many people have done. I imagine it's also possible to simply rotate the screen before you mount it.
The IKAN and Lilliput screens do both and X and Y axis flip, and they can be used to frame the picture, but the reason for doing this is the resolution for focusing. I have a Liliput on my Steadicam. It's not useful for focus. The LCD with the focus assist is better.
Great news! So now, when will a how-to be available so those of us with time but less than your smarts can get started?
Found the post of Jerry Lee about the LCD hack but that's actually for the HV20 LCD, not sure if flipping the HV20 LCD would also "flip" the HDMI output. I was wondering more if the controller from the samsung lcd kit could be hacked in some way to offer the possibility of X & Y flips....
Why would you? Just turn the whole monitor up-side-down. As Duke said, because it is DIY (do it yourself), you can mount the screen any way you want. Not anymore complicated than that.