Cheap lighting setup

[drapeama]

You're getting a lot of nice effects there.
Morning, evening, cool, warm, etc. as if there's a daylight window behind and to the left, sometimes.
Nice.
Did you white balance for each lighting change?

1) Thanks. That's the purpose of using different color temp on each side. Simple, and can create a mood without the proper time of the day.
2) I didn't. I've set the White Balance manually in the T2i, using Magic Lantern. I think it was set to 5500k or 6000k. That way it achieve a proper white on a side and it gives a more golden tint on the other.
3) About ambiences, I really like that one (took during the day, white balance set to ~4000k):

I really like your creativity here. [..] Maybe instead of coffee use a can of tomato and save the contents for the sauce.
On a serious note: Make sure the pot is earthed. Don't use a two pin plug.

1) Thanks! I enjoyed the plastic bowl from my last try, but there was too much light leak to me. The Red bowl was illuminating due to the material. At least the pot will "contain" the light just like an Arri kit would. And it's "die-hard" built.
2) I never bought some tomato can before, but the idea is basically the same. Only the size differs. Best would be to have multiple sizes and color temp bulbs.
3) Yeah. As it's metal and not plastic like the previous version, I thought about it:

Unless I'm very not good, this should be properly done...

Is there a reason for the asymmetric placement of the CFLs?

Yeah, there's one: not enough sockets and not enough time! I plan to add 3 more sockets (double sockets) in the three holes. There's already the wires for the first one, then I'll add the wires from one to the other to complete the package:

They should form a pentagon on the outer and a single double socket in the middle: total of 12 lights. I'll have to change the switch if I put more than 23w bulbs because that one can only handle 3amps.
Oh, and about the wiring, I only had orange wire left, so I had to identify it with tape (yellow and black). Not that it changes much, but it has to be wired carefully before testing!

[Playing]

Unless I'm very not good, this should be properly done...

Yes, looks good to me.

[Janke]

I had to identify it with tape (yellow and black)

Are your mains plugs polarixzed, i.e. Live and Neutral always distinguished?

In Europe, our plugs can be inserted 2 ways, 180° apart, so L and N may change place. Ground is always the same, though.

[drapeama]

Are your mains plugs polarixzed, i.e. Live and Neutral always distinguished?
In Europe, our plugs can be inserted 2 ways, 180° apart, so L and N may change place. Ground is always the same, though.

1) On the 120volts cable, yes: White for positive, Black for negative and green for the ground.
2) ON my setup, as I didn't had more than one color (orange) I had to put some tape on each to help distinguish them. But usually, it's White, Black and Green (or any other color) for the ground.

[Janke]

White for positive, Black for negative

Oh, you have DC current?

Green (or any other color) for the ground

Really? Here, the ground cable is VERY conspicuous, green-yellow striped. Can't miss!

[drapeama]

Oh, you have DC current?
Really? Here, the ground cable is VERY conspicuous, green-yellow striped. Can't miss!

1) No! But that's how I've learned it: positive and negative + ground. I'm no electrician, but so far it seems to work!
2) Well, once you know, no matter the color! As long as it's properly wired, there's no problems!

Question > Ground cable: it's optional, right? You could only use the two others, but when there's metal in contact, it's better to have it wired to make sure there's no electrical risks?

[Steve_Karl]

You can also call them hot, neutral, ground.

[Janke]

Live, neutral ground is the most common, I think.

Ground cable: it's optional, right?

ONLY if the equipment is "double-isolated". Metal boxes should always be grounded.

Read: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Appliance_classes

[drapeama]

Live, neutral ground is the most common, I think.
ONLY if the equipment is "double-isolated". Metal boxes should always be grounded.
Read: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Appliance_classes

1) Possible. I've learned it from here and there...At least I can manage to make it properly.
2) Yeah, I knew about metal boxes (conductive) and that's why it wasn't grounded on my previous versions (being plastic boxes = non-conductive).
3) Thanks for the link. And as written:

These appliances must have their chassis connected to electrical earth (US: ground) by an earth conductor (coloured green/yellow in most countries, green in the US, Canada and Japan).

[drapeama]

So here's the pretty much finished setup (still have to work on the stand):





With only a neon light over the sink:

With the kit on the table (left):


And a nice still I've took:

[Almohada]

You've been busy! Nice still. Was that the only light on? Makes a very nice rim light there in the still

[drapeama]

You've been busy! Nice still. Was that the only light on? Makes a very nice rim light there in the still

1) Yeah, I've been working on that for 1-2 days.
2) ON the comparison with the box, yeah. Neon light over the sink but other than that it was the only light.
3) That's because of the lens, HOYA 28mm f/2.8. Everytime there's light hitting the lens, it makes an halo.