Yeah, it will maybe let more light to pass through over a sanded plaxiglass or waxed paper sheet. We should try them all to compare.Originally Posted by Almohada
But i tend to say that the plexiglass would be the more suitable in this particular situation.
For diffusion on the cheap, I recommend baking parchment, not waxed paper: it can usually found in the same aisle at the grocery store, but unlike waxed paper, it won't melt and it's much less likely to catch fire!
Thanks for the input Erik, but as I mentioned in a previous post, using CFLs bulbs doesn't produce as much heat as halogen bulbs, so there's definitively less chance that it catch fire!
But thanks for the experienced advice!
Wouldn't plexiglass be too heavy? I'm trying to find a very DIY affordable solution. I made a DIY C-Stand out of PVC a while back... so maybe the frame can be PVC so it can attach onto the stand
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1) I'm not talking about a 3/8 thick sheet!But more like a thin one, maybe less than 1/8 would do it easily after sanded.
2) Check this, maybe a bit later because they're closed for now, but you can check for they're light stands. As i remember, they sells for like less than 50$ shipped. Sure you can do it yourself, but i doubt that a PVC stand will be stronger than a light stand, and for the price...
Re softening the light: covering the box with paper/whatever won't soften the light very much, just drop the intensity.
It's the area that is important; to get softer light, you need a softener larger than the box. A wire frame of some kind, to hold, a suitable distance away, a matte foil/fabric/paper* substantially larger than the box itself will soften best.
* anything white and translucent
"Real" diffusion filters aren't really that expensive either, just a few bucks a pop for 20*24 inch sheets:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/buy/Li...086+4294955678
These can also be stapled to a simple DIY wooden frame and voilá, you have a diffusor you can use in front of i.e. a work light... or in front of that box.
Last edited by Halsu; 2011 January 28th at 03:46.
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Not to be nitpicky, but just to avoid any confusion with someone wanting to build on of these... Those connectors are AC sockets, not DC. There is nothing DC about this circuit.I'll list the parts from the store itself
Sockets (no exactly the same, but this one has wires already connected.)
Switche
DC connector
ABS plastic box Big & Small
AC cord
Hope i'm not alone to understand...i'll try to take some pictures when i'll build another one, because it was a real pain in the @$$ getting all those wires in such a little box so...
Hope it'll help people!
Also I know the housing isn't metal, but for safety reason you might want to ground the fixture.
1) Sorry about that, my electric knowledge isn't that huge. I was able to read some schematics and be able to wire the setup properlly, but not much more. Thanks for the clarification thought.
2) Yeah, the main reason why i didn't was because everything is made from plastic.
Sweet!
I've looked at that thing many times, but have missed this thread.
Glad I ran into it, I am absolutely building one of these.
I've seen other variations using 9 bulbs as opposed to 6.
any opinions on those? Would you just connect 3 sockets per switch on that, or would that be too much?
My computers experience is good, but my electrical isn't. If I wanted to ground the fixture, how would I do that? Also, what kind of wiring should I use? Specifically, what gage, and whether or not they should be stranded or solid?
Thanks everyone
Hey guys! Back to the DIY work again!
I'm currently working on another CFL lighting setup, that will be pretty similar to the previous one.
If it works well, I may do one more solid and put some Halogen lamp in it. I'll add a dimmer on it to control the intensity.
So far, here's what it'll look like:
Only problem so far is that the bowl isn't "deep" enough so the bulbs are a bit out of it. I'll try it, but I doubt it will be a big issue.
From the top, it'll looks like that, allowing to remove the cover of the box and I'll add some "U" bracket each side to make it adjustable up&down.
I've found some double-sockets like that, already wired so I'll simply have to connect them all together (lights will be connected in serial) and pass the three wires inside to the box.
I'll be able to use a single screw to hold the three pair of sockets together, way easier than in the previous one!
I'll post other pictures when I'll have it done. Should work on it tomorrow.
Done!
I've done it even simpler than the previous one: one switch for the 6 bulbs. On-Off, period. I've been able to work on something to fit it on a light stand:
I won't ever compete with halogen light in terms of total output, but for the price of the bulbs (1.25$ for a 13W 6500K CFL), and as it never gets as hot as halogen, it's a nice thing to have in your gear.
light
Hmm so in total how many watts does this bad boy spit out? and whats the equivalent in tungsten? what was the total cost?
hmm i see you play chess? i move d4...
haha good job in the light can that replace say the redhead of 800w? seems like a great idea as this doesnt get hot and bulb seems cheaper. again whats the max watts you can do on this unit you have?
1) Max Total, 1200W (using 45w bulb for 16,96 $). Using these 45w bulbs (which output 200w of light) would be great because they consume only 0.375 amp each, for a total of 2.25amp.
2) It would be a little more than 2x work lamps, without the heat, but that's theoretical. I'd like to be able to compare it with a light meter.
3) Here's the prices:
Bowl: 1.25$.
Plastic Box: 6.50$.
Switch:1.99$.
12ft electrical wire: 3.49$.
Double sockets: 1.99$ x3 (11.94$)
Cordgrips: 2x 3.49$ (6.98$)
Total: Roughly 36$ taxes included.
That doesn't include the mount to put it on the light stand though, as I already hard the parts at home.
4) My father plays. He does the chess games you see too.
5) With the proper bulbs used, I'd say yeah. It's never as hot, and it's definitively cheaper. I think it would last longer too. Halogen bulbs dies faster than CFLs.
6) Max output at the moment is 60w equivalent x6 = 360w, for a total of 78w and 0.65amp consumption.
Not the best, but I'm happy to make them (fun of it) rather than paying ans waiting for them to arrive.
Wow that sounds great- can you do a short video so we can see the lighting effect on footage etc. would consider doing some limited number perhaps for sale and at what price?
1) It's not bad!
2) I'll try to record a little something, showing ambient lighting, no lighting and with that light. I'll try comparing it with a 500w halogen work lamp, just to be fair and see how good/bad it is.
3) For now, I don't know. These are made from plastic and aren't built like tanks! I could probably make one with metals, which would be way more solid, but I would have to check the difference in the cost (probably not much, maybe double the price of the plastic box that's all). I can always check what I could do and let you know? Then I'll check the price to send it.
Working on a short video, but here's some picture I've took while I setup the lights:
6x 13w (60w equivalent) @ 6500k on the left and 2x 23w (100w equivalent) @ 3000k on the right.
On the right, it was way too harsh directly facing charlie, so I bounced the light on the wall and it was just fine because of the white plastic case that was still diffusing the light through it.
Here's one with the light set at the height of charlie on the chair, at 90° toward the camera to avoid lighting the wall behind her:
It really makes a nice backlight on the left while not lighting the wall...makes a nice contrast between both color temp too. Here's the wider shot:
That one has been done with the lighting kit set on the top of the stand, like in the first two pictures:
It makes the backlight a little more subtle and it lights a bit the wall at the same time. Depending the effect you're after, it can work too. Same for this one, wider shot:
Just because this one is funny:
Note how serious she looks like in this one:
Add some 2.40:1 ratio, color correct and it could make a "cinematic" shot! (too easy, I had to!)
The video will follow probably tomorrow. Let me know what you think.
Hmm i await the video too.
I'm uploading it right now, should be up in about an hour or so.
My favourite is the color corrected one at ~4:40, looks definitively like a movie scene with both lights.
Let me know!
Here's my lastest attempt on a DIY CFL lighting kit (made with a cooking pot & stainless flat bar):
Materials:
Cooking pot: ~20$
Stainless Flat Bar: ~5$
Bolts & nuts : ~5$
Wires & switch: ~15$
Roughly 45$
Should handle up to 12 bulbs, depending on the consummation:
13w = 60w equivalent > 1.3amp for 720w total
23w = 100w equivalent > 2.3amp for 1200w total
43w = 200w equivalent > 4.3amp for 2400w total
And here's my little Can-Spot (using a Coffee can):
Materials:
Coffee Pot: ~13$ (if you like Coffee!)
Socket with integrated switch, wired: ~10$
And here's some random stills with the Can-Spot:
and without:
I'll try to finish it later this week and post some stills/videos showing both.
You're getting a lot of nice effects there.
Morning, evening, cool, warm, etc. as if there's a daylight window behind and to the left, sometimes.
Nice.
Did you white balance for each lighting change?
Last edited by Steve_Karl; 2012 May 30th at 12:28.
I really like your creativity here. And for the wrap party you can cook spaghetti in the pot. Maybe instead of coffee use a can of tomato and save the contents for the sauce.
On a serious note: Make sure the pot is earthed. Don't use a two pin plug.
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Is there a reason for the asymmetric placement of the CFLs?
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