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Thread: Cheap lighting setup

  1. #1
    Senior Member Dillonp23's Avatar
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    Smile Cheap lighting setup

    Hey guys, I have searched the forums and looked around a bit but can't make up my mind. I have a pretty tight budget since I spent it on other things for my camera. I will be filming a few music videos soon, so I have left the microphones at the bottom of the list since I won't be needing anything more than my SGM-1X for music videos. Of coarse studio recording of the song and shotgun for any sounds in the video (walking, doors etc).

    Now I was wondering what lighting setup I could do for indoor shooting of a band, or maybe in a garage. I have max of about $200 or a little higher if it's really needed. I was thinking just work lights and defusing them with tracing paper but I know they run really hot. And also they are not dim-able, so I have to keep changing the halogen bulbs between different watts.

    So any suggestions would be great, I probably will use 3 point lighting but not sure how it works with a band. I have the 160 LED lights from eBay for probably close up (it's dim-able). Would like to here ideas for lighting for my situation. I have reflectors for outside. Thanks!

  2. #2
    Director of Photography drapeama's Avatar
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    Post CFL lighting

    I've proposed this idea on another thread. Read also post #13.
    I've also pointed links in this one. It's mostly DIY stuff...but it's cost-saving.
    Hope it helps.
    I DO IT BECAUSE I CAN. I CAN BECAUSE I WANT TO. I WANT TO BECAUSE YOU SAID I COULDN'T.

  3. #3
    Senior Member Dillonp23's Avatar
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    Yeah thanks for those links Also is there anything wrong with floodlights on stands, they are like $30 and I can change the gloves to different watts.

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    Director of Photography drapeama's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dillonp23 View Post
    Also is there anything wrong with floodlights on stands?
    I guess they're pretty good too! I've only used CFLs on one project and i've been satisfied with it so far, that's why i'm proposing it!
    antman could give you more choices about differents setup that could match better what you want. You might pm him about that.
    I DO IT BECAUSE I CAN. I CAN BECAUSE I WANT TO. I WANT TO BECAUSE YOU SAID I COULDN'T.

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    Moderator Erik Bien's Avatar
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    Start with this thread and this one and this one ...
    Last edited by Erik Bien; 2010 January 14th at 04:58.

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    If you want to stay with work lights you could actually use a router speed control, which will actually make your work lights variable and make them dimmer.

    Heres the link for the router.
    http://search.harborfreight.com/cpis...trol&Submit=Go

    Also a link for a video showing how to use it. Pretty straight forward.
    [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1-YDwZ-tXTc"]YouTube- Video Tips &Tricks ep01: How to make a green screen light variable[/ame]

    Hope this helps.

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    This is a good option to have in the toolbox. Just be aware that if you dim your lights, the light output shifts to the red. While this may not be a problem if you white balance after you dim, it can cause shifts in the relative darkness of different colored objects.

    Also, you can't dim most CFLs.

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    Quote Originally Posted by tonydacrow View Post
    This is a good option to have in the toolbox. Just be aware that if you dim your lights, the light output shifts to the red. While this may not be a problem if you white balance after you dim, it can cause shifts in the relative darkness of different colored objects.

    Also, you can't dim most CFLs.
    Good point!

  9. #9
    Senior Member Dillonp23's Avatar
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    Hey guys thanks. I know about that video, I have watched it before but the problem is in Australia we don't have router speed variables. I ask at bunnings and they said because our voltage is 240v and it's too much or something like that. So I will have to change the globes for different watts instead

  10. #10
    Legend tcindie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dillonp23 View Post
    Hey guys thanks. I know about that video, I have watched it before but the problem is in Australia we don't have router speed variables. I ask at bunnings and they said because our voltage is 240v and it's too much or something like that. So I will have to change the globes for different watts instead
    Still not an issue.. you can add a dimmer to your work light with a simple mod (I'll try to get a how-to posted in the near future)

    Or, get yourself a wall dimmer, a couple of replacement extension cord ends (male and female) and make up a diy inline dimmer.

  11. #11
    Formerly known as spaxion debuys's Avatar
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    TCINDIE is right. I wouldn't get any more advice from that bloke at bunnings. I wired a pair of household dimers into a 500Wx2 work light. One of the advantages of the router speed control that I learned about after my modification is that it can handle more power than a typical household dimmer. I can't imagine that the same isn't available for 240V countries.

  12. #12
    Tropical Legend cgbier's Avatar
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    What about the hum with them household dimmers?

    Dillon, ask your local contractor where he's buying his powertools. There you'll most likely find a that router thingie. It should even be better with 240V as you have half the Ampere.
    "It is dark the other side. Very dark!" - "Oh, shut up and eat your toast!"

  13. #13
    Formerly known as spaxion debuys's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cgbier View Post
    What about the hum with them household dimmers?
    The dimmers themselves are silent. The bulbs are a different story. The hum can get bad when they are cranked down more than halfway. Either way, I'll use a 250w worklight when I need less light than a 500w worklight provides anyway. I have used the 500w pair only once for video. I have used them many more times as a (gasp) worklight.

    The router control is a way better solution; no soldering, less expensive and can control the speed of a router.

    Good point about lower amps...!

  14. #14
    Legend tcindie's Avatar
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    If you buy the right dimmer, neither dimmer nor lamp makes noise.

    Also standard wall dimmers can be obtained to handle higher loads, but a standard 15A dimmer will be plenty for at least 1500W of light. And, no soldering is necessary.

    If you've got a worklight with the pushbutton power switch on it, that can be replaced with one of these dimmers and wire nuts are plenty to handle the connection. Of course the box on the light won't be large enough for the dimmer, but an upgrade box can be added pretty easily to give you the necessary room.

    Used to have a link to instructions on how to do this, but don't seem to have that link anymore

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    Tropical Legend cgbier's Avatar
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    Excuse mey ignorance, but isn't that control thingie just hung in line between the wall outlet and the light's plug?
    That at least how the foot switch of my lathe worked.
    "It is dark the other side. Very dark!" - "Oh, shut up and eat your toast!"

  16. #16
    Formerly known as spaxion debuys's Avatar
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    Here is what I did, two houshold dimmers. They are rated at 700w and can handle more probably, but at $7.00 I figured it was worth having more control.
    2010-01-16 001 001.jpg

    Here's a monumental waste of time (other than the learning experience). The barn doors work, but it's too wide and too much crap on a 250W halogen.
    2010-01-16 001 006.jpg

    This was a good build and worth the effort. Its a 250W halogen forced into an air conditioning register receiver (or whatever its called) painted black.
    2010-01-16 001 010.jpg

  17. #17
    Legend tcindie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cgbier View Post
    Excuse mey ignorance, but isn't that control thingie just hung in line between the wall outlet and the light's plug?
    That at least how the foot switch of my lathe worked.
    Basically, yep.



    These will work for up to roughly 1500 watts on 110 AC power

  18. #18
    Tropical Legend cgbier's Avatar
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    Thanks!
    "It is dark the other side. Very dark!" - "Oh, shut up and eat your toast!"

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    Senior Member Dillonp23's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by debuys View Post
    The router control is a way better solution; no soldering, less expensive and can control the speed of a router.
    I have looked all over and there is no router speed controls for AUS power. Any other suggestions? I might have to do the soldering one, but I really don't know anything about it. Do you mind explaining what to do? I will get a mate to do it for me Thanks heaps guys!

  20. #20
    Tropical Legend cgbier's Avatar
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    I don't get through on that site right now, but check those folks under Routing or Woodturning. Good luck.
    "It is dark the other side. Very dark!" - "Oh, shut up and eat your toast!"

  21. #21
    Director of Photography drapeama's Avatar
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    Didn't wanted to start another thread about that; i'm working a a setup that can handle up to 1200watt (~4.5 amp) with 6CFL bulbs, 3 switches (2 bulbs per switches) and the total cost, without the bulbs would be less than 30$, this includes the wires, the switches, the sockets and the boxes. I'll post the picture when i'll have it finished.
    Pretty simple setup, why i want to DIY? Because i can put up to 6 lights x200watt or 4x 200watt equivalent output (~60watt consuming) + 2x colored bulbs for mood (blue/green/red/yellow/blacklight...); by having independant switches you can turn off the 800watt lights and turn on the colored ones for mood without having to change the bulbs/setup each time or whitout having more than one lighting kit. As it's very light, I'll have it attached on my cheap tripod and it'll be stable enough.
    I'll post a breakdown of the setup when i'm done.
    Last edited by drapeama; 2010 March 23rd at 12:56.
    I DO IT BECAUSE I CAN. I CAN BECAUSE I WANT TO. I WANT TO BECAUSE YOU SAID I COULDN'T.

  22. #22
    Director of Photography drapeama's Avatar
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    I forgot to mention, but it's obvious, you can't use a dimmer with this setup...but i think with barn doors it'd be okay. Otherwise i'd use less powered CFL bulbs, such as 100watt or only 60watt output instead of 200watt.
    But i'm building it for indoor use mostly, so it could be compared to a 500watt halogen work lamp, but with bulbs that are cooler and safer to manipulate, and cheaper. And for outdoor use, with an extension cord i think i'll be okay too.
    I'll post something with the pics attached later this week.
    I DO IT BECAUSE I CAN. I CAN BECAUSE I WANT TO. I WANT TO BECAUSE YOU SAID I COULDN'T.

  23. #23
    Tropical Legend cgbier's Avatar
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    Build in a couple of switches for turning single lamps on/off, and you don't need a dimmer. It's not as precise though.
    "It is dark the other side. Very dark!" - "Oh, shut up and eat your toast!"

  24. #24
    Director of Photography drapeama's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cgbier View Post
    It's not as precise though.
    That's right...but for my needs actually i don't need more. There's no good enough reason for me to spend over 300$ on a good lighting kit for what i'm doing for the moment. I can always put a "shade" on the kit to attenuate the light a bit, that would do it for me.
    I DO IT BECAUSE I CAN. I CAN BECAUSE I WANT TO. I WANT TO BECAUSE YOU SAID I COULDN'T.

  25. #25
    Director of Photography drapeama's Avatar
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    Default Work in Progress

    Work Still in Progress: It's partially finished, i'll solder the wires thursday on my day off.

    I will probably attach my quick release for my tripod on the back box, as it's the most sturdy one. The White box is just hold in 'sandwich' between the black box and the plate as it serves only as the reflector. I'll probably paint the exterior black to fit the rest of the setup. (Pic 1)
    The back part is pretty simple, the box with the three switches and the DC connector, taken from an old power supply. (Pic 2)
    The sockets will be screwed on the little holes on the black plate of the "interior" (Pic 3)
    Attached Images Attached Images
    I DO IT BECAUSE I CAN. I CAN BECAUSE I WANT TO. I WANT TO BECAUSE YOU SAID I COULDN'T.

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