FS - DIY LANC. Wired remote

[rkhanso]

I do have some more remotes and can fill orders again.

Still making a couple versions: the removable, rubber mount or the permanent mounted one

The other option is a fixed length cable or one that can have an extension put in (for a crane, etc).

The fixed length version is $30 and the extendable version is $45 and will also include 1 extension (you choose the length). All prices include a brand new remote with battery (unless you ship me your remote - contact me about this)

Shipping is $5 in the USA, or contact me for International shipping charges.

Thanks
Roger

[mpegjohn]

Hi,
I am interested in buying one of these babies.
What are the cost options for shipping to the UK?

John

[rkhanso]

International shipping will be $13 USD.
I'll ship USPS Priority Mail® International Small Box Flat-Rate. They say it arrives in 6-10 days.

[RyanBCV]

Hi Roger,

This is just what I needed. I can't wait to use it.

~Ryan

[alfred]

Hi Roger,

fine work. Can you fabricate me such a LANC for my Panasonic NV-GS330? The remote is Panasonic N2QAEC000021.

Would be great!

Alfred

[rkhanso]

Hi Roger,

fine work. Can you fabricate me such a LANC for my Panasonic NV-GS330? The remote is Panasonic N2QAEC000021.

Would be great!

Alfred

I don't have access to your camera to see where the IR receiver is on the camera, nor the dimensions, nor a remote control.

It's not going to be possible without a camera, remote and much of my time to make a one-off like this, unless the price is so high it's worth it for me (but unlikely worth it for you). Sorry.

You could make one using my pictures as a guide. I'll be glad to answer any questions you may have.

[alfred]

The main problem is how to open the remote without disturb /break it. Some tricks, how to do it?

[Matt Greenfield]

I do have some more remotes and can fill orders again.

Hi, do you still have materials in stock? Interested in the stereo mini-jack version.

[rkhanso]

Hi, do you still have materials in stock? Interested in the stereo mini-jack version.

Yes. Everything in stock.

The main problem is how to open the remote without disturb /break it. Some tricks, how to do it?

Not sure if it will help with a Panasonic remote, but the way I open up the Canon remote is:
1: Take out the button battery holder
2. Stick my thumbnail in between the top/bottom pieces around where the button battery holder was.
3. Slide my thumbnail around until I get it open a little - near the battery end.
4. Once I get a 'tab' undone, I can use my thumbnail as a lever and get the 'tab' undone closer to the business end (with the IR LED) of the remote.
5. Keep sliding my thumbnail around the entire remote until it's separated.

I use my thumbnail because it does minimal damage to the remote. You don't want to use a screwdriver or metal object - you're just asking for trouble.

[rkhanso]

I'm moving and the shop is all packed up in boxes until the beginning of August. I won't be able to full any orders until then. Sorry.

[rkhanso]

I've fired up the soldering iron and brought out the drill press and started making these again after the move.

[rkhanso]

New shipment of remotes came in. Some people have asked and yes, I am still making these.

[bluesgeek]

Now it's January. Are you ~still~ making them? Thanks.

i just tried to make one myself and I'm sure I baked the remote circuit board.

[rkhanso]

Yes. Still making them.

I'm not satisfied with the wire that I have for the remote and am searching for a less stiff type of wire, but I am making them.

[bluesgeek]

Thanks. I'll go through your web site.

[Adriano Apefos]

Just an idea:

it would be great for 3D stereoscopic filmmaking a solution like this with two IR leds to operates two camcorders at same time.

3D needs perfect sync in start/stop and zoom, so the same remote control operating both camcorders would work great for 3D aquisition.

What do you think?

[rkhanso]

It would not be a problem to make a remote that would work with 2 LED outputs.

While I've never done any stereo/3D filming before (or know anything about it for that matter), I wonder if you'd have to do some 'tweaking' in post production anyway, since you're taking 2 different sources and merging them into one. I would guess that the 'real' 3D recording/filming would merge them as filming was done, maybe with some time-sync feature that ensures they are in sync.

With 2 separate HV's, using 2 separate 'feeds' and merging them may not be perfect, but good enough? I suppose it would be better than not having a dual-output remote.

[Rumple]

They'd use a timecoded slate and sync each video to the timecode.
You should be able to do it with a normal slate, as long as the clapper loader does a good job.

[BWC]

I am going to need a few of these; two before long. Do you have remotes in stock?

[rkhanso]

I am going to need a few of these; two before long. Do you have remotes in stock?

Yes.

[ddaulton]

Very interested in at least one of these. I have a Beachtek DXA-6A on my rig. Any experience/issues with this piece of kit and the Beachtek?

http://www.beachtek.com/dxa6a.html

[rkhanso]

I sold one to a guy that had either a Beachtek or JuicedLink - don't remember which. He said it worked really nice with it. Just sandwiched between it and the camera. I personally haven't tried it as I don't have a pre-amp. But would like to DIY a JuicedLink clone/copy.

As long as the Beachtek or a cable connected to it doesn't stick way out the front of the camera, so the LED has room to protrude down from my mounting plate it should work w/no problems.

[Snicket]

I am interested in one, but I have a Hg20 camcorder. The receiver is on the LCD screen just above the joystick. Is there anyway one of these could work with it?
Thanks

[rkhanso]

I am interested in one, but I have a Hg20 camcorder. The receiver is on the LCD screen just above the joystick. Is there anyway one of these could work with it?
Thanks

I don't really see a need for my product with your camera if you're using a tripod - or under what most people would consider 'normal' use. If you're out of direct line of site of the camera when using a crane, or when both hands are occupied when using a steadycam, fig rig or something like that - then I can see where something like my product would have a use. And yes, it would be possible to make it work with an HG20, but the mount for the LED would have to be modified to fit your situation.

The reason we need this for the HV cameras is because the IR sensor for the remote is in a fixed position on the front of the camera. Thus, you need to have the remote in front of the camera to use it, or fake it out by using a solution like mine.

Since you can vary the sensor direction by twisting your LCD, it's easy to make it work when you're behind or in front of the camera. If you're behind the camera filming and using a tripod, all you have to do is have your LCD popped out and then use the remote with the hand you're not using for the tripod - pointed at the LCD. In front of the camera? Then just twist it around 180 degrees so the sensor is pointing that way.

[Snicket]

....The reason we need this for the HV cameras is because the IR sensor for the remote is in a fixed position on the front of the camera....
...Since you can vary the sensor direction by twisting your LCD, it's easy to make it work when you're behind or in front of the camera...

Well what I am trying to do is attach my remote control to the top of my camera much like a XH-A1. Which when it is on top of the camera the IR sensor does not pick it up. I was just curious if it could be made to work...