FS - DIY LANC. Wired remote

[rkhanso]

Hey all,

I came up with a pretty decent solution (I think so, anyway) for the lack of LANC on the HV20/30/40. It's really a copy of other ideas on the hv20.com forum.

What you get: a brand new from Canon WL-D87 remote (battery included) hacked to work as a LANC controller, a plate to mount between your camera and tripod mount with a LED holder, to.....hold the LED. The IR-LED is removed from the remote and extended on some wire so it can mount in front of the camera, pointed at the IR-LED receiver. You can see that the plate is straight. I thought about bending it up, to point it more directly at the IR receiver - but then it would start to interfere with the IRVB focus ring, and there wasn't much leeway for gaps/angles. I found that there is no need to have the LED point any more directly at the receiver - it works great as shown.

I was using the TOS-Link cable, but found that way to be pretty unreliable - had to be adjusted just right to get it to work. It wasn't reliable for me, anyway. This design is rock-solid and works ALL the time. In my design, the LED mounts into the holder with a rubber plug, plus I've added some heat-shrink tubing to make it even more secure. The wire is about 2 feet long, which should suit most situations.

The mounting plate works with the IRVB focus ring installed. It's a tight fit, but there's a couple millimeter leeway that allows the plate to be mounted and still point at the IR receiver. I don't forsee any trouble with the mount of the plate/LED and other accessories that may be used - though I obviously can't imagine all the possible scenarios that people will run into. The prototype shown below doesn't have it, but I'll put either a thin rubberish material on the plate where the camera mounts, or will coat the entire plate in a rubber/plastic - type material. The plate is 20 gauge galvanized and should be around .036 thick. My tripod mount plate still has enough thread to make it through the plate and hold the camera secure. I wanted to make the plate strong enough to not bend easily, yet not be too thick to cause problems placing it between tripod plate and camera with enough threads in the 1/4" bolt to grab and hold.

I thought about a mount for the remote onto the tripod, but with all the different tripods and ways that people have them set up, decided there's not a best way to do that. Velcro would work nicely. Duct tape would work, too... Mount to your preferences

Price: $30 plus $5 shipping in USA. PayPal is good.

Enter my PayPal ID and choose pay for goods/services. Copy the info below and paste it in the message section at PayPal with the pertinent information.

PayPal ID: sales@makarios.us

Info to copy/paste:
Name (first, last):
Shipping Address:
Ordering: LANC system
HV20.com userid:

BTW, I'm having my children help with this - we homeschool and this will count for some schooling credit.

If anyone has any suggestions for improvements, let me know.

See below for pictures.

[rkhanso]

More pictures:

[Brandon]

Ill take it.. email me.

[rkhanso]

A couple people had questions - wondering if there was just one of these, or if I was selling more.
I'm making and selling these. Right now, I'm out of remotes, but will get some more this week. There will be more available then. If you'd like one, let me know and I'll be sure to have enough.
I've contacted everyone with status of their order.

[Soultrape]

Would this work for the HF100's?

[rkhanso]

Here's the situation for the HF100, or any other Canon consumer video camera.....

The remote part of the equation doesn't matter - as long as you have the WL-D87 or similar remote. I believe the HF100 uses the WL-D88 - but that should be compatible with the WL-D87.

Where you run into trouble is the IR (remote) receiver on the various cameras. While the size (length and width) of the HV20/30/40 are similar enough with the HF100 to make my mount plate work for both of the cameras - the IR receiver on the HF100 appears to be in a different location. The HV20 has the IR receiver at the lower left of the lens (look at the front of the HV20), while it appears that the HF100 has the IR receiver in a different location. I'm not sure where the IR receiver is located, but it looks like one of the microphones is at the same place as the IR sensor on the HV20.

So, in my opinion, it will NOT work (but remember, I don't have a HF100).

[rkhanso]

I just called Canon about the remotes - found out they're backordered, but they'll get a small shipment in a few days.

They said they'll fill part of my order, but can only send me 4 remotes in 5-7 days. The rest will take 2-3 weeks.

I saw a link on the DIY part of the forum, in the sticky section about the cheap LANC controller. My version will also let the LED come free from the holder, though I put some shrink-tubing around it to help protect the LED leads from breaking off. If you'd like to have the LED be able to come out of the holder, all you have to do is remove the outermost layer of shrink tubing. I'm sorry to say that those items that I've already shipped will not have an additional layer of shrink tubing protecting the LED leads on it (securing it onto the silver LED holder) - I will add an additional layer to all future orders.

I'm also looking into other options of 'strain relief' for the wire/LED.

[Erik Bien]

If anyone has any suggestions for improvements, let me know.

Since you asked, I'd pay more for one with 1/8" stereo minijacks, male on one side, female on the other, so I could use cheap Radio Shack unbalanced headphone/microphone extension cables in various lengths depending on how far away I need to be when controlling the camera.

[T_Bone]

Rather than removing the remote IR, I got one of those IR flashers with very thin copper wires ( not a TOS ) commonly used in A/V equipment. I opened the remote and just soldered the IF flasher wires across the remote IR with the wire going out the battery end of the remote ( at the corner with small made with soldering pencil ). With this simple 5-minute job, I can use the remote as a LANC with the IR flasher or use the remote in the normal fashion. It's a very simple connection and the remote / LANC works great. The skill set needed to do is about .1 on a 0 to 10 scale with 0 being the easiest.

[711]

Hmmm. Very nice. I will definitely be looking to pick one of these up as soon as my wallet recovers from its last expense...

[rkhanso]

Rather than removing the remote IR, I got one of those IR flashers with very thin copper wires ( not a TOS ) commonly used in A/V equipment. I opened the remote and just soldered the IF flasher wires across the remote IR with the wire going out the battery end of the remote ( at the corner with small made with soldering pencil ). With this simple 5-minute job, I can use the remote as a LANC with the IR flasher or use the remote in the normal fashion. It's a very simple connection and the remote / LANC works great. The skill set needed to do is about .1 on a 0 to 10 scale with 0 being the easiest.

I thought of this, but ran into a couple things. They'd have a length of wire always attached to their remote, even when they don't need/want it attached. For those HV users that didn't feel comfortable with soldering iron in hand, working on the only remote they had - they'd have to send me their remote, or I could just get a new one for them. Since they had a working remote already, I could hack up this new remote. I'm in your camp: it does what I need it to do, that's all I need. Not all the wives want a remote with an extra wire wrapped around it when they're trying to use it. Though, I don't think my wife has even touched MY HV20....

Since you asked, I'd pay more for one with 1/8" stereo minijacks, male on one side, female on the other, so I could use cheap Radio Shack unbalanced headphone/microphone extension cables in various lengths depending on how far away I need to be when controlling the camera.

Done. I'll add this as an option for an extra $10 ($40 total) - due to the extra parts and labor. Since the 1/8" (3.5mm) connectors require such a large hole to mount a jack in, I won't put a jack right in the remote. I'll solder a 3" or so wire and have the female connector hang off the remote. I'll include a male connector on a couple feet connected to the LED. This should allow most of us that just use a tripod enough length, and those of you fortunate to have a crane to buy an extension cable to get the length you need.

Here are some pictures of the new, removable LED type of plate. I think this will be better for storing this in a gear bag - without putting undue strain on the cable when in storage. The grommet does hold the LED very securely. I'll make this an option, too - either the permanent holder, or removable grommet.

[rkhanso]

Due to the increased ordering options, I was going to edit my first post to change the info requested when ordering, but don't see the edit link...

My PayPal id: sales@makarios.us

So, if you'd like to order, please include this info:

Name (first, last):
Shipping Address:
Ordering: LANC system
Type of LED mount: Permanent (silver thingy) or removable (rubber thingy)
Extendable cable? Yes or no
HV20.com userid: So I don't get orders mixed up.

Now, there are 2 prices -
$35 for the single length (USA shipping included)
$45 for the extendable length (USA shipping included)

I can also sell extension cables for those of you who have a crane, or just because you can, etc.

Extension cables:
6' $3
10' $5
25' $7 (currently backordered - should be available after 4/15)

Remotes are still backordered from Canon, though I'll get a small shipment within a week. More coming in around 2-3 weeks.

[rkhanso]

I received some more remotes from Canon yesterday and will get as many orders as I can - shipped.....fighting the crowds of tax filers at the post office.

[basicbill]

I received mine today. Nicely made and works as advertised. Super packaging too.

Bill

[Rumple]

Hi rkhanso,

I was wondering if I could get one of these, minus the metal plate?
I lost my remote, otherwise I'd make one...

I just need to know how much you'd charge for one of the remotes with a single length (if you could make the cable 12 inches that would be fine), plus shipping to the UK, and if you'd mark it as a "gift" so mr. taxman keeps his nose out.

Cheers.

[rkhanso]

Hi rkhanso,

I was wondering if I could get one of these, minus the metal plate?
I lost my remote, otherwise I'd make one...

I just need to know how much you'd charge for one of the remotes with a single length (if you could make the cable 12 inches that would be fine), plus shipping to the UK, and if you'd mark it as a "gift" so mr. taxman keeps his nose out.

Cheers.

I can send just the remote/cable. I'll PM you.

[Rumple]

I just found my remote whilst looking for something else (always the way!).
I think i'll try modding it in the same way you have hanso.

Just need to find a remote in a charity shop so I can salvage it's LED.

[Rumple]

So you know, I rtied using the WL-D88 with my HV20 and it does not work.
I don't know how the HF10/100 will work with the D87, but thought i'd mention it.

[joboh]

recieved mine, very nicely built ,works very well ,extremely good communication from seller,very fast shipping too

[rkhanso]

I received a few more remotes from Canon - have just a total of 4 remotes.

[rkhanso]

recieved mine, very nicely built ,works very well ,extremely good communication from seller,very fast shipping too

Thanks for the nice words.

[killerbees19]

I'm still waiting for my remote control: UPS - hurry up
I can hardly wait! *jumping around the room*

[killerbees19]

I've recieved my remote control in the last hour (5-6 days, wow ) and I have to say: Great work and thank you! Works perfectly and looks very nice


Greets from Vienna,
Christian

[rkhanso]

I've recieved my remote control in the last hour (5-6 days, wow ) and I have to say: Great work and thank you! Works perfectly and looks very nice


Greets from Vienna,
Christian

Thank you for your kind words.
I have 3 or 4 remotes remaining. I can order more if there are requests.

[rkhanso]

I am still making these. I'm out of remotes until This Friday (5/22) or Monday (5/25)at the latest.