Best 50mm lens for 35mm adapters?

[sebipayne]

What 50mm lens should i buy for my HV30? I'll want to use it with a DIY 35mm adapter.

I want to buy the sharpest, best quality Manual Focus lens,

Some competitors:

- NIKON NIKKOR 50mm F1.8
- CANON FD 50mm f/1.8
- ASAHI PENTAX SUPER TAKUMAR 50mm F1.4 (some people told me, maybe it's one of the sharpest 50mm lens ever made - Is it true?)


I heard that the Nikons' have a bit better, sharper image quality than Canons, and that the Nikon f1.8 is sharper than the f1.4 which cost much more.

Which one is the best? What about the Pentax Takumar?
Other recommendations?

[Carl Bellamy]

Personally I would suspect that it is pretty immaterial. The 3 lenses that you have listed are all fine lenses. We are losing far more quality by projecting the image formed by the HV30 onto a ground glass screen and then "re-photographing" it. If pure image quality were our goal [In the strictest sense of the word] then I would avoid using a 35mm adapter altogether.

[b.soysal]

I made a quick search about the pentax super takumar 50mm lens and found these photos online

http://galleries.oomz.net/pub/M42/ta...21-185226.html
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mhuk/2483829940/sizes/l/

I know this is relative but isn't the bokeh ugly?

[isnsi]

looks smeary

[sebipayne]

Another Takumar Photos:

http://galleries.oomz.net/pub/M42/river/S/IMG_8661.html
http://galleries.oomz.net/pub/M42/river/S/IMG_8698.html
http://www.flickr.com/photos/giuntin...-98706667@N00/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/patrick...-98706667@N00/
http://oly43club.ru/forum/uploads/12..._121_63802.jpg

These images looks great for me.

[d1g1t]

Personally I would suspect that it is pretty immaterial. The 3 lenses that you have listed are all fine lenses. We are losing far more quality by projecting the image formed by the HV30 onto a ground glass screen and then "re-photographing" it. If pure image quality were our goal [In the strictest sense of the word] then I would avoid using a 35mm adapter altogether.

I have to agree. You are much better off concentrating on the quality of image coming out of your DOF adapter. Get a grainy GG, or a DOF setup that's a little off on the exacting distances between elements, and your images are going to all be a little blurry or distorted even with a Zeiss lens.

I wouldn't bother buying a new lens by the way. Lots of used, high quality, manual focus lenses on eBay for Nikon and Canon mounts.

Having played around with my DOF adapter for a couple months, I have a small piece of advice: get a lens that you can put marks on (little bits of tape or white grease pencil) for pulling focus. I have two lenses that are great for this, but my 28mm Nikon has a little window for the distance scale and there isn't really a place to mark it accurately. This auction

http://cgi.ebay.ca/Nikon-50mm-f-1-8-...QQcmdZViewItem

has pictures of both kinds of lens. The one he is selling has the window and I would avoid. The "stock photo" has the distance marks exposed and would be much more useful.

-- Kevin

[doruondun]

Best one is:

Carl Zeiss Planar T* 50mm f/1.4 lens

Sharpest one is Nikon but... I don't prefer f1/8.

f/1.4 is much more better (buy f/1.2 if you can find), but it's Asashi DAH!

Go for the Nikon... but look for f/1.4...

[fishops]

I'd also like to know the answer to this question. I'm assuming faster=better due to the light loss inherent to the adapter, but what are my best options for a good, inexpensive, used 50mm lens suitable for a vibrating GG? And please don't tell me that it doesn't matter, getting the best image out of an adapter is a seperate issue that there are plenty of other threads about.

[OsevinFJ]

I have been reading that the nikkor f/1.8 50mm is sharper than both the f/1.2 and f/1.4. Has anyone compared the 3? I'm all about saving the money and getting the f/1.8 if it is infact the sharpest. I know the others will allow more light but i can deal with it.

Also, is it important to get the older all metal/glass version of the f/1.8?

Thanks

Bryan

[d1g1t]

Well, the speed of the lens can matter, especially in low light. I think, however, that you are better off adding light rather than spending a lot on a faster lens.

I have a Nikon 50mm f/1.8. I usually use it 4.0 or higher.

The problem with using a lens really wide open is that your DOF is _too_ shallow.

For the sake of argument, let's say you are shooting something at 6ft with a 50mm lens. At f/1.2 your DOF will only be about 3". At f/5.6 your DOF will be 12.5". As anybody with a DOF adapter will tell you, focus is difficult to get right.

Very shallow DOF also looks completely unnatural. At 3", someone's face won't be completely in focus.

[doruondun]

First you have to buy a lens which is not slower than f/2.8...
And you have to do micro-collimation settings for every lens that you put on your DOF!
I mean calculating the distance between the "back element of your lens" to the "focusing screen of your DOF adapter" to get a proper and sharp focus.
You can test it with a "focus testing poster" (Just stick a "white poster with black figures" on your wall and place your camera directly to the poster). If the distance between the test poster to your DOF's focusing screen is same with the number marks on your lens (ex: 2 feet) and the vision looks sharp on your LCD screen (I prefer a big wide laptop screen), than it means that your lens doing a proper focus.

[d1g1t]

And you have to do micro-collimation settings for every lens that you put on your DOF!

I don't understand. You don't do micro adjustments on your SLR when you put a different lens on. Why would you have to do it with a DOF adapter? Setting up your DOF adapter the first time I can understand, but with every lens change?

-- Kevin

[lukeness]

Why would you have to micro-collimation every lens? As long as you're using the same class of lenses, it should be ok to micro-collimation once for all of them.

Also, isn't it supposed to be 2 feet from the actual lens to the subject? Not the focusing screen? Correct me if I'm wrong on this one.

First you have to buy a lens which is not slower than f/2.8...
And you have to do micro-collimation settings for every lens that you put on your DOF!
I mean calculating the distance between the "back element of your lens" to the "focusing screen of your DOF adapter" to get a proper and sharp focus.
You can test it with a "focus testing poster" (Just stick a "white poster with black figures" on your wall and place your camera directly to the poster). If the distance between the test poster to your DOF's focusing screen is same with the number marks on your lens (ex: 2 feet) and the vision looks sharp on your LCD screen (I prefer a big wide laptop screen), than it means that your lens doing a proper focus.

[kafeero]

I made a quick search about the pentax super takumar 50mm lens and found these photos online

http://galleries.oomz.net/pub/M42/ta...21-185226.html
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mhuk/2483829940/sizes/l/

I know this is relative but isn't the bokeh ugly?

That looks pretty bad. Unless someone wants that effect...

[kafeero]

Another Takumar Photos:

http://galleries.oomz.net/pub/M42/river/S/IMG_8661.html
http://galleries.oomz.net/pub/M42/river/S/IMG_8698.html
http://www.flickr.com/photos/giuntin...-98706667@N00/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/patrick...-98706667@N00/
http://oly43club.ru/forum/uploads/12..._121_63802.jpg

These images looks great for me.

They do not show much of Bokeh.

[doruondun]

Why would you have to micro-collimation every lens? As long as you're using the same class of lenses, it should be ok to micro-collimation once for all of them.

Also, isn't it supposed to be 2 feet from the actual lens to the subject? Not the focusing screen? Correct me if I'm wrong on this one.

First of all original Nikon or Canon FD lenses are manufactured for their bodies so there is no need to be micro-collimated (there is no setting to collimate).

But Brevis has a special ring in side, so when you turn it right or left, the ring moves forth or back. You put the nikon or canon FD mount on that ring (that means that you can set the lens's position back or forth.

Now I'm looking on my 50mm Canon FD f/1.4 lens and there are several marks on it (both meter and feet). It doesn't have to be 2 feet, its just an example...

you can adjust it for 3 feet or 2 meter (I mean its easy to adjust your focus when the object is near). You can choose 10 meter but it's impossible to see the sharpness from that distance...

I could be wrong about adjusting for every lens, but I will search it and tell you the whats right ASAP.

[sebipayne]

They do not show much of Bokeh.

Then here it is:

http://www.pbase.com/carpents/image/81109017/original

And other samples of SMC, and Super Takumar f1.4 50mm:

http://www.pbase.com/carpents/nlsr1m6samples

[EssentialParadox]

All I know is this:

- http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/5018daf.htm

[sebipayne]

Anyway, i've found a great normal lens (50-58mm) shootout:

http://www.pbase.com/carpents/nls

[lukeness]

First of all original Nikon or Canon FD lenses are manufactured for their bodies so there is no need to be micro-collimated (there is no setting to collimate).

No one is disagreeing with you.

But Brevis has a special ring in side, so when you turn it right or left, the ring moves forth or back. You put the nikon or canon FD mount on that ring (that means that you can set the lens's position back or forth.

No one is disagreeing with you.

I could be wrong about adjusting for every lens, but I will search it and tell you the whats right ASAP.

This is what people are disagreeing with you about. Be sure to let us know what is right.

[d1g1t]

Anyway, i've found a great normal lens (50-58mm) shootout:

http://www.pbase.com/carpents/nls

Cool shootout. They compared lenses which came WITH cameras. Many should theoretically be cheap and plentiful on eBay.

Well, except the winner which looks like it sometimes goes for $500 because it does CRAZY shallow DOF. Great for arty videos but beyond what most people consider the "film look" that DOF adapters are for. There's one on eBay now:

http://cgi.ebay.com/VINTAGE-PENTAX-M...d=p3286.c0.m14

-- kevin

[sebipayne]

I decided.
I've bought an Asahi Pentax Super Takumar 1:1.4 50MM with lens caps, case and filter for US $50 + shipping. It's quite good prize for this lens, isn't it?

[doruondun]

Hey guys,

I have learned that just one collimation is enough for one brand. if you collimate it to the Nikon lenses, it works for every Nikon lens; but if you put a Canon lens you may need a new collimation setup...

[coolhairstyle]

My favourite lense is the canon FD 55mm F1.2 lens. They go for very cheap. quality is also excellent. I've bought 3 of them so far and i'll definately buy more of them if i can find. For backups etc.

[sebipayne]

My favourite lense is the canon FD 55mm F1.2 lens. They go for very cheap. quality is also excellent. I've bought 3 of them so far and i'll definately buy more of them if i can find. For backups etc.

Hmmm... I think this one won't be a Best Buy for 700$
Canon 55mm f1.2AL FD Manual Focus Lens f1.2 Aspherical

Where did you buy them for cheap?