how does the viewfinder compare to the lcd for the hv30? on my hv20 it seems much more correct, but still a bit oversaturated compared to a computer screen
this may be the fault of the ntsc limitations where tv black is not rgb black, same for white, so on a computer, things look washed out (& the camera may be doing an internal conversion/levels to simulate a vivid tv)
It is the same here with HV30. The viewfined seems a bit more accurate on colors but yet it lacks dynamic range, it's grainy and I wouldn't rely on it unless in particular conditions, it's just too unconfortable to use it while keeping the camera steady.
The PAL version should be the same as our televisions also don't produce full RGB range being limited to 16-235 as for standard BT.601 (or CCIR 601; http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rec._601).
Thats why I am getting pretty subdued images right now.
HDV 24p Cinema (hopefully), Full RGB range output
HDV 24p, RGB adjusted (decoder) for TV like gamma
Canon EOS 350D / Digital Rebel XT in comparable conditions (same scene with different focal length and AR)
I know the Canon EOS really shines compared to the VIXIA but what matters in this very comparison are the colors. At default the EOS seems way more saturated than the VIXIA (and infact it's a bit "supernatural", for that one should rely to the neutral setting on the RAW converter, and by default the 350D also tends to be a bit off the proper exposure on the + side as in the example above). The fact tha makes it worse is that the VIXIA appears subdued in colour even if it had proper exposure, and the screen doesn't really help.
Last edited by m80116; 2009 April 14th at 19:03. Reason: spelling errors
PAL user with NTSC mind
Sorry to contradict myself.Originally Posted by m80116
Maybe I got the wrong impression at the first sight, maybe I used vivid which is quite possible, but I just tried to stretch the graph within the range (just stretched, no level cutoff) and it looks perfect.
HDV 24p, RGB adjusted (decoder) for TV like gamma
Level stretching so they touch 0 and 255 on RGB (no cutoff)
Midtones are were they are supposed to be and colors look even more natural than the EOS. I am surprised by the accuracy it shows up. I like it.
PAL user with NTSC mind
LCD and Viewfinder discrepancy
Once again, thanks for a great site.
Weird thing I've noticed. When I frame a scene and shoot it, either through the viewfinder or LCD display, playback of the tape on the LCD shows exactly what I shot. BUT export and editing on my NLE shows that the scene has included things outside the LCD display. This is really frustrating as microphones and other equipment that shouldn't be visible now show up.
Any one else experienced this? Is there a workround or a fix?
I did try a search but couldn't find a similar post.
The work-around that I've used is to try to compensate for it in framing a shot. A bit of imagination based on experience is necessary. In extreme cases where unwanted "stuff" has crept into the frame, I've done a minor(!) crop in post to remove it without any visible loss in quality. (At least to my eyes.)
You couldn't have looked too hard if you missed this thread title that I have merged your post to.
Isn't the now merged-to thread about brightness, over-saturation etc. of the LCD? I thought the question was about objects included outside the view. Or am I missing something?
Bill
The HV overscans (said differently, the LCD underscans) about 5% of the frame.
Look again.
I did... you were right. Sorry.Look again.
Bill
I did my search on LCD rather than viewfinder, apologies
To be honest, LCD is the correct term, but since so many have gotten used to incorrectly calling it a viewfinder, well...I did my search on LCD rather than viewfinder, apologies
LCD does not show full image
I recently noticed when I was importing that the image imported is larger than the one on the LCD display. The image appears to be slightly zoomed in on the LCD but not on your final result.
For example, in this shot this character's head is cut off by the edge of the frame when viewed though the LCD, but when on the computer there is more information captured.
This has proved to be a problem with getting things in frame that I do not want to, such as the boom or a bounce board. In this shot the boom is visible in the upper right corner, but when viewed in the camera it is not. In addition the edges of my adapter's focusing screen can be seen on the left corners.
Has anyone else noticed this? I am unsure if this is some setting turned on that I don't notice or if it is just a flaw in the design. Anyone found a workaround besides an external monitor?
Yeah, unfortunately the LCD only shows the "action safe" area, which is about 90% of the entire image. It's a bit irritating, but you just gotta work around it.
I noticed this when i played around with zooming on still images on the lcd, and I noticed I could see more of the edges when I zoomed in on them.
If you want to avoid this, you'll have to get an external monitor.
I thought we all new this already. Not to knock you but this is old news.
No one can read the Gospels without feeling the actual presence of Jesus. His personality pulsates in every word. No myth is filled with such life...Albert Einstein
sorry, I searched but wasn't able to find anything, guess I didn't search the right thing.
It's not your fault..things can be diificult to find here sometimes.
No one can read the Gospels without feeling the actual presence of Jesus. His personality pulsates in every word. No myth is filled with such life...Albert Einstein
How could you have not found this thread (where I moved your posts to)?
About Exposure
This may or may not be an issue, as I havent had a chance to test this with video (waiting on the firewire card).
However, when playing wtih exposure levels on my HV30, in Tv mode, the actual picture result is MUCH darker than what you see on the LCD.
Now, I come from the SLR world, so its not too big of a concern, however it would be nice to have a preview of what I'll actually be getting as the studio lighting thing is new to me.
Is there something I can do to have the LCD preview accurately reflect the result? Is it just the pictures that come out darker? Am I lalalala out of luck on that one?
Thanks much!
You can change the brightness of the LCD display. I noticed that my video after capture was coming out darker than the LCD displayed so I made the change and now I get much better results.
What did you find was close to the actual picture brightness in the end?
we've all noticed that... it kinda' sucks, but its not that big of a deal, I mean you get used to it.
Plus; if you use zebra stripes, it makes it easier to judge the exposure.
You can match the brightness pretty well if you capture some video (it probably would work with your pictures too) and then look at the video on your computer while you look at it on your lcd. Then adjust the brightness on your lcd to match your computer.
I did what Kibonki suggests, captured some video and compared how it looked on both my calibrated computer monitor and on my calibrated plasma TV. Ended up taking the brightness setting almost all the way down on the camera LCD, and it's still not perfect, but it's close enough.
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