DIY CFL light bank

[brido]

I saw an advert and then saw a reference to a cheap lighting "box" used in a third world country.

This is my version. Not so cheap when you have to get 9 CFL lamps.

The box is a Dick Smith (electronic shop chain) instrument box ($Aud 7).

3 gang switch ($Aud 3)

Lamps are all CFL as that is all that are available in Australia now. They are 20 watt. I have a second box with 15 watt lamps. [20 watt CFL = 100watts old stuff; 15 watt CFL=75 watts old stuff]

Brief testing says that reflectors are definitely required, but there is not very much difference between the 20 watt and the 15 watt panel.

The gang switch will switch on a panel of three, one at a time until all are on.

I have ideas that I might add a sort of diffusing screen as well as the reflectors. I will fiddle with it.

[PeterC]

Looks nice! Did you have to cut all the holes for the bulbs and for your gang switch?

As for controlling the light and getting better output, you might want to try and convert to a softbox by enclosing the sides of the lights and using a diffuse material on the front so that all the light is directed forward and the lighting is more even.

BTW, how is your light bank mounted? Can you mount it onto a light stand?

[ryon.brewer@gmail.com]

Here is a couple of links for diy lights, very high quality and soft box instructions
it is geared more towards still photography, but constant lights are constant lights.

http://alexcampagna.blogspot.com/200...ht-strobe.html
http://alexcampagna.blogspot.com/200...1_archive.html

[Erik Bien]

As for controlling the light and getting better output, you might want to try and convert to a softbox by enclosing the sides of the lights and using a diffuse material on the front so that all the light is directed forward and the lighting is more even.

I definitely agree that softbox-style side skirts will be a big help in controlling spill, but in my experience fluoros are diffuse enough you shouldn't need to add the front diffusing face as you would with a tungsten soft box. Instead, egg crates are often used to narrow the broad beam angle even more.

[brido]

Re drilling holes. Yes i did have to that. Fortunately I was pre warned as to the "fatness" of the bases of the various lamps you can get all with the same wattage. I laid it all out on paper first having the largest diameter in mind. If i did it again I would allow even more space as I only just got them all to mount.

Yes i cut the gang switch hole too. The box is plastic so it was not too difficult.

Re the holes. I had a drill to fit the size as i dabble in woodwork a bit, but I also have a hole cutter that I have used in the past. About $AUD 7 from a cheap shop. It too works very well.

Re Mounting. I have two of these boxes and i am planning to mount the two of them hinged either side of a wooden box. The box will be mounted on my "industrial light" stand, that i got from a cheap hardware shop for $AUD 23 (Bunnings)

I looked at the egg crate idea and might well give it a go. I did not quite understand the "angles" ie 40 degrees etc. Are they coned outwards?

These are a work in progress and your ideas will be welcomed.

[Erik Bien]

Hi Brido,

Regarding egg crates, the angles stated in degrees describe how wide the beam will be leaving the face of the light (although in the real world, "shaping" something as amorphous as the output of a bunch of fluorescent lamps isn't too exact; maybe it's better to think of a 60 degree as "wider" than a 40 degree without getting too hung up on exact figures).

AFAIK, narrower beam-angle egg crates use deeper (front to back) "blades" (usually made of fire-retardant fabric) than wider ones. There might also be differences with the number and spacing of the blades.

[brido]

Here are pictures of the unit that my friend Chris has made. It shows reflectors and a mounting device. (http://www.softweigh.com/)

He is ahead of me at this time as 1. I have made a dual bank and 2. I have had the flu (still have if it comes to that) 3. I had a false start with the project as I did not think of the project box... he did!

He is a great guy except that he does not have a HV20!

[thirdflr]

and if you leave the eggs in will you have breakfast after the shoot?

[brido]

OK LOL good start to my day

[Crosby!]

Check out this related thread on dvinfo.com. I'm still debating on making my own. I kind of like the Victor Milt's DIY nano soft light boxes for my needs, shown at the end of this sample of his Light It Right video.

Here's a PDF on how to make a version of the nano soft lights.

Cool Lights is a good place for ideas and parts for mounting. I was thinking of the 9 or 16 bulb Fotodiox as they're not expensive ($90 for the 9 bulb model) but I haven't seen them available in a bit. The picture below is from an old (Feb. '08) ebay auction.

[brido]

It was this picture that started me off! Thanks for all the details.

[Crosby!]

You did a good job. There's a 16 bulb model, too. Read that spacing the bulbs out more increases the light output. A reflective back would help, too. You can get Plexiglas mirrors, some people make barn doors with them to increase the light as well as direct it. Silver Mylar and glue would be cheaper.

I like what one of the people in the dvinfo.com link I sent said he did with the Fotodiox unit. He put a different type of bulb in each of the two circuits (4 and 5 bulbs) so he can switch from 3200-degree Kelvin to 5500-degree Kelvin as desired to balance with existing light.

[dhumphre]

Cool Lights is a good place for ideas and parts for mounting. I was thinking of the 9 or 16 bulb Fotodiox as they're not expensive ($90 for the 9 bulb model) but I haven't seen them available in a bit. The picture below is from an old (Feb. '08) ebay auction.

I've got one of the fotodiox 9 bulb units. I don't really use it. I was going to outfit it with 3200K bulbs to match my tungsten lights but then I stumbled onto some cheap used Mole Richardson fixtures so I use them all the time now instead.

I'd be interested in selling it. I also have 4 55W (250W equivalent!) 5000K 3600 lumen CFL bulbs. They're huge so you'd really only be able to fit 4 bulbs in the fixture. BUT you'd have 1000W equivalent (14,400 lumens) daylight fixture that only draws 220W.

I paid about 20 each for them hoping to use them in a chandelier butg they were too big. I'd be interested in selling them with the fixture.

[Crosby!]

Here's an idea for those without tools, get three power strips, nine outlet to socket adapters, and nine 23 watt CFL and you have a easy pre-wired set-up. Make a reflector or whatever and you're done. These can be used for a lot of other setups, too.

Power Strip ($3 each at Home Depot - SKU# 455038):



Outlet to socket adapter ($2 each at Home Depot - SKU# 149682):



23watt CFL bulbs:

Soft White ($7 per two pack at Home Depot - SKU# 161301)



Bright White ($9 per two pack at Home Depot - SKU# 160740)

[Kyleman]

Neat idea Visor!


-Kyle

[brido]

I like it. You are very observant. i will have took for those in Oz

[Erik Bien]

Visorblue,

Cool ghetto lighting rigs always make my day. Sort of a cross between a batten strip and a Kino Barfly ... I am so making some of these!

[Crosby!]

They're useful for a lot of things and since nothing is custom made you can alter the setup as needed. Varying the wattage or color temp of the bulbs is easy. Say that you want to shoot someone working on a computer screen and want it to look like they're lit from the glow of the screen, simple, skip the power strip, just use an extension cord, socket adapter and a bulb -- I used to use under counter fluorescent lights.

Stick bulb(s) in a corner to add some interest, toss a gel over it and you have it. Make some PVC frames* with some thin fabric taped, clamped or Velcro'd on them, set some power strip lights behind them and you have some nice soft light for your scene. Works in cramped spaces, too.

*See the PVC flats thread, too.

[zcream]

I am going to take an actual empty eggcrate and use it as a frame to make a bank..Lots of them for free in the trash anyway.

[brido]

I have made enquiries and the general thought is that the "Plug / bulb holders" are not available in Australia.

Will keep looking though.

[zcream]

Hi brido. I was at Bunnings today trying to hunt this down. It is not available in Australia. However, there is a 10$ portable Par 38 light (Nelson brand and another brand as well) that has a power plug and a bulb socket. You can take out the Par light and mount a 48W Nelson Lamps 5000K CFL to make a CFL Bank..
Its on my todo list..

[Ron Bakker]

I made my own with four bulbs in each wooden box with just the back reflective. Oh and I had three boxes in a horizontal array. I used two warm white bulbs and two cool light bulbs in order to give me a better white balance. And then I set the white balance on my hv20 which corrects it nicley. Half way down this page where I am holding a dive bag is the result.

[brido]

Re Bunnings: I did buy a Fairway 1000 watt (twin 500 w) and stand for $24, Could not resist it. The stand is what i really bought it for.

Tell me how you go with your "todo".

Of course I have already made my CFL bank. Will be mounting it at the week end i hope.

[Crosby!]

I made my own with four bulbs in each wooden box with just the back reflective. Oh and I had three boxes in a horizontal array. I used two warm white bulbs and two cool light bulbs in order to give me a better white balance. And then I set the white balance on my hv20 which corrects it nicley. Half way down this page where I am holding a dive bag is the result.

Video looks pretty good, how about some pictures of the setup?

[Kyleman]

I bought the parts to do the "ghetto" CFL lighting kit with the power strips. Much more control over the light compared to harsh work lights. Very bright, energy saving and one of my favorite things, it cools off less than 2 minutes compared to those halogens. I bought 3 power strips, 9 outlet to socket adapters, 2-6 pack 23w(100w equivalent) CFL lights. And I bought one of those plug in sockets with the reflector/clamp. All for around $65. Works great!


-Kyle