Okay, fellas, you talked me into it!
(Of course, as is usually the case when I finally decide to take the plunge and buy something, I immediately found it cheaper someplace else ...)![]()
Okay, fellas, you talked me into it!
(Of course, as is usually the case when I finally decide to take the plunge and buy something, I immediately found it cheaper someplace else ...)![]()
funny you should mention the blister packs. Got them in today and set them up to play with. Haven't shot any video yet, but they are much brighter than any other lights i have in the house. I think for the price they will work nicely. The softboxes are a little tricky to put together the first time as i received no instructions and was confused for a few minutes.
Over all i think it was a great purchase for $200. I plan on using some foam and making the case a little more friendly without having the blisterpacks and boxes all over.
And in case you didn't already guess, the light stands are cheap, but they do work. i had to drill out the screw hole and use a bolt straight through so the heads would stay solid. For the price i have absolutely no complaints. Put together they do look very nice. :-D
I hear ya WRT the stands: they feel as if they can barely support the weight of the softboxes! Definitely want to follow the old grip's maxim of "put your best foot forward" (i.e., put one leg directly beneath the light) and drape a sandbag over one of the back legs — I've already ordered a couple of hopefully better stands (ten bucks cheaper than this listing); I figure it's no more expensive than replacing the CFLs when the provided stands topple over in a slight breeze!
All of these "loose bendy rods" style softboxes are kind of slow and annoying to set up and pack away, but at least their small size and light weight makes them easy to position and rig; I'm pretty sure even my cheap boom stand or suspended ceiling scissor clamp will hold them no problem.
Yes, the stands are more like background stands but I didn't need to drill anything out, the heads fit securely as-is.
The boxes aren't hard to assemble/disassemble. Granted, I've been using softboxes for years. My old Photoflex ones were a nightmare. They have stiffer rods that are a serious pain to work with. I used to leave them assembled out of frustration after struggling to take them down. When they came out with the ones with the Velcro tension relief pockets (like the one corner on these) I quickly sold my old ones and bought those, MUCH better. Not cheap. These boxes are easy by comparison.
Last edited by Crosby!; 2009 January 15th at 08:51.
Note: I have been wrong before! - Typos are there for those that look for them. I try to do something for everybody.I have no loyalties to anything I have to pay for!
Note: I have been wrong before! - Typos are there for those that look for them. I try to do something for everybody.I have no loyalties to anything I have to pay for!
i'll explain what i drilled out real quick. The silver top of the stand has 1 screw in it and mine were a little wobbly. i drilled through the screw hole and popped a bolt in. didn't modify the lights at all, just the cheap stand. I'll have to pick up a few of the other ones for $50 a pair.
The small Phillips (cross-tip) screw that holds the silver stub that you mount the lights on? Mine seem tight. They're not heavy duty stands (better than some old Smith Victor's and Pic stands I have) but I like them as all my others are a bit beefy (Mole-Richardson, Matthews, Norman, the $50 pairs, etc.) so it's nice to have a couple lighter ones for some uses (no, not for a boom).
I'm thinking of getting a 2nd kit as well. I have a couple of the three bulb 16" reflector units but they're a bit bulky to transport, plus I like the five switches.
Ran some quick tests with and without the diffusion material and I like them without the added diffusion. Since fluorescent lights are soft by themselves the quality of the non-diffused light was pretty good and bright. I need some spare bulbs.
I set the camera to daylight and shot a color checker with the lights, looked good which means they should work well as a daylight fill -- bigger stands and sandbags.
Note: I have been wrong before! - Typos are there for those that look for them. I try to do something for everybody.I have no loyalties to anything I have to pay for!
Has anyone got any experience with the Litepanels? Are they worth they money?
I just worked with four of the 1-foot-by-1-foot LitePanels putting together our entry for the 4K Challenge: they're very small, quick to set up, don't get hot, can be dimmed with very little color shifting and throw plenty of "artificial daylight."
On the other hand, compared to my cheap-and-cheerful CFLs they're quite expensive, while being fairly comparable to my stuff in terms of the quality and amount of light they put out. If money were no object I wouldn't mind having a couple, but, since in my case money is an object, I'll probably stick with my CFLs.
What I need now is some hard daylight: if somebody would just come up with an affordable 'Bug-A-Beam' style HMI ...
LOL
Well at the moment, the cheapest alternative I've seen is this 575W HMI fresnel; at $1600 including globe and ballast it's way cheaper than even a small Joker, but still a little rich for my cheap-skate blood ...![]()
And how about the Micro LitePanels, the ones you can put on any camcorder? Are they worth the money?
Note: I have been wrong before! - Typos are there for those that look for them. I try to do something for everybody.I have no loyalties to anything I have to pay for!
I've been researching what light to use for my HV30. At first the LP Micro looked good, almost bought it, then cancelled my order at the last minute after reading all the bad reviews. I am also considering the Varizoom 2010 kit for Sony, since I also shoot with the Sony fx-1. My alternative idea was using the "Digi Slave L-Ring Ultra II". I also can use this for my still camera. I am wondering if anyone thinks this is a good idea if the light is adequate.
anyone have photos of the HV30 with Varizoom/SWIT S2010?
Try this thread, SWIT S-2010 On Camera LED Light Review.
Note: I have been wrong before! - Typos are there for those that look for them. I try to do something for everybody.I have no loyalties to anything I have to pay for!
Kinda expensive; would you happen to know something prized about 100 dollar (150 max) with which you can also regulate how much light the lamp gives?
There's been several threads on LitePanels and alternates. Search for "litepanel". Here's a thread to start you out: Cheap alternative to LitePanel.
Note: I have been wrong before! - Typos are there for those that look for them. I try to do something for everybody.I have no loyalties to anything I have to pay for!
Thing is that most of those aren't dimable, and I am a bit scared of buying a lamp which ends up to be way too bright with no way to adjust this.
Last edited by Ringquelle; 2009 January 27th at 08:11.
I've seen all the threads on "Litepanels" and all the threads on "Varizoom/SWIT". But I have not seen anything with the SWIT and Canon HV30/HV20. So far it seems to me that the SWIT is the better choice all around. Can anyone tell me what is the "best" light to use for the Canon HV20/30. Everyones input is priceless! THANKS!
Note: I have been wrong before! - Typos are there for those that look for them. I try to do something for everybody.I have no loyalties to anything I have to pay for!
Thanks for putting this together. I was searching for a relatively inexpensive way to light a green screen and found your "article" very helpful.
One thing to add that I have found is that having a bulb with a high CRI makes a difference. Check out the following link for more info:
http://www.edbergphoto.com/pages/Tip-fluorescents.html
One of the few screw-in bulbs I could find with a CRI over 90 are made by ALZO. They claim the bulbs have a CRI of 91.
http://alzodigital.com/online_store/...ment_lamps.htm
regards,
Bill Strehl
billstrehl@comcast.net