How to track Fast-moving objects - airplanes etc.

[kaidomac]

I want to film airplanes (both full-sized and remote-control). What's the best way to track them? Obviously I should be in 60i mode for fast-moving action. Will any old fluid-head tripod work? I'm especially concerned with the remote-control airplanes, since they are small, fast, and harder to track. What are your suggestions for shots like this?

[mattias]

chosing 60i or 24p is a stylistic choice, it has very little to do with fast motion, which 24p is fully capable of capturing. for tracking fast motion any fluid head will do, it's the slow motion that requires a better head. ;-) one thing that really helps when tracking moving objects is to look through the viewfinder rather than the screen or a monitor. it may sound like it would be vice versa, but i can assure you the hand-eye coordination improves a lot when the display is "connected" to your head.

/matt

[kaidomac]

chosing 60i or 24p is a stylistic choice, it has very little to do with fast motion, which 24p is fully capable of capturing. for tracking fast motion any fluid head will do, it's the slow motion that requires a better head. ;-) one thing that really helps when tracking moving objects is to look through the viewfinder rather than the screen or a monitor. it may sound like it would be vice versa, but i can assure you the hand-eye coordination improves a lot when the display is "connected" to your head.

/matt

Really? I've only had my HV20 for a few weeks now but motion on 24p is blurry while motion on 60i is clean, like on fast-moving people or quick pans.

Do you know if the Canon telephoto lens is any good? I'm thinking about going back to OshKosh this year, a big airplane fest in Wisconsin, and it'd be nice to be able to film the planes whizzing by on the front row near the runway.

[mattias]

motion on 24p is blurry while motion on 60i is clean

i'm not saying there's no difference, i'm saying that 24p is perfectly capable of capturing fast motion. if it's good enough for michael bay maybe it's good enough for you? 60i *is* smoother but there's absolutely nothing blurry about 24p. the difference is a stylistic choice only.

are you watching the 24p on a computer? if so you have to remove the pulldown or else you will get blurry and stuttery results for sure. 24p is recorded as 60i on tape, using a scheme that's really only for tv playback.

/matt

[veg]

I'm trying to understand this thread. Do you mean 'Panning' rather than 'Tracking' kaidomac?
Tracking involves physically moving the camera with your subject. Is that what you want to do?
Not a good idea with R/C aircraft.

[mattias]

sure, but while not completely correct in film lingo i think tracking is a perfectly suitable word for what he wants, which i'm sure is to follow the subject. let's call it tracking by panning rather than tracking by tracking. :-)

/matt

[veg]

Ah!
or tracking by tilting
or tracking by zooming
or tracking by crabbing
or tracking by pedding
Panning.

[brido]

My first post just disappeared, please excuse a double posting if this occurs.

I have no advice re fancy camera settings except as below for my particular topic... {which is use the back light option}.
This is a practical "how to" for tracking model RC aircraft, which is what I have done a lot of. They are small/ fast/ maneuverable to the extreme and they are always "against the light"

Method 1. "Two eyes"

Using moderate zoom (or what you think you can get away with) I use the eye viewfinder to start tracking the aircraft. Then after, say 30 seconds or so, I open my second eye.
This give me a superimposed "wide angle view" on a "camera frame view".
The wide angle view gives me better anticipation and tracking ability whilst still keeping the plane in the frame.
This is my favorite technique, but i was always good at the "magic Eye" picture puzzles!! :)

Method two. Mono Pod

The key to this is two fold. One the position of your feet so you body can swivel; bend back, and bend forward, and the monopod far enough away from your body to allow this "full range" of movements. I still manage to use the eye viewfinder but the LCD works too.
Works with a bit higher zoom setting.
My view that this is a bit tricky but I have made it work ok (practice like all things!)

Method three. Blue tack.

I have used dollops of blue tack to create "rifle sights" on top of the camera.
It is quite easy to adjust them so that the object is in the frame.
My view is that this works quite well.

Methods 4. Underwater sights.

I found a very cheap underwater camera set in a charity shop. It had a square framing device in the pack. I modified this to fit in my hot shoe. As long as you are the same distance from the camera for most of the time it works quite well. Of course you need to set it up so that it matches the framing.

One of these techniques might adapt to what you need it for. As I said I developed these for RC Aircraft filming.

My favourite is the "two eye" method.

[Skatervideoguy]

Hi kaidomac,

I've been doing Horse, Skating, and Soccer Video. Because of my vision, and using Tri-Focal glasses, I've found using a seperate monitor to work the best for most everything I do. I've found the Soccer to be most challenging due to the Field size and the speed of the ball and exchanges, but found it easy to do with my equipment setup.

I use a 5" to 13" monitor, depending on the venue. (with extended Monitor Hoods if outside)

I also use DIY made Extendable Control Handle, IR-Remote to Cam FiberOptic, and an Articulating Cam to Head Mount for maximum flexability.

Being ambidextrous, I can use the Remote or Control Handle to manage the Cam with either hand. That's very helpful when doing 12hr Horse Shows.

I've been using this system for years now, with excellent results.

Check my other posts for Pics of most this equipment.

Harold