Really good 35mm DOF Adapter website

[twoneil]

I have acquired other lenses other than FDs. I've constructed this a couple of days ago. So if you want to use EOS lenses in the future, it will still be possible.
Here's another great option:
http://aycu29.webshots.com/image/24628/2005688713444547339_rs.jpg
I custom made a tube to perfectly get the right focal flange of the lens. I used combination of rings and did the math.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_lens_mounts

[xcgeek]

I've learned all these through the hard way; trial and error.
grrr....cost me time and money, so my advice to anyone making this adapter is to be patient and gather lots of infos.
You can never be too sure.



Yes, adjust the placement of the GG holder.
From what I see, the focal flange of EOS lenses are different from the FD lenses.
So you can't interchange lenses between them, so we're stuck with FD.

To set the focal flange, I turn the FD lens to focus to infinity and point it at a far object (i.e. trees really far).
Once the image on the focusing screen is clear, you now have the measurement of the focal flange (~40mm).
This is the most important part since there is no turning back once you've glued the GG holder in place.
To be in the safe side, I've also subtracted 1mm to allow any margin of error.
Therefore you'll always have infinity focus even though you lose a tiny bit of macro.



Big issue.
The FD-EOS w/ corrective lens allows you to interchange between EOS & FD lenses.
(although I don't know what will be the effect of that 'corrective lens')
But from what I've gathered, it lowers light by and degrades the quality of your wonderful FD lens, which is definitely a no no for me.
The best FD-EOS adapters you can find are expensive (~$400)



Don't even bother gluing since you've found a "mount adapter with NO small corrective lens". This mount adapter is better than gluing.
(agrhh...why didn't I search for this adapter in the first place???)

The easiest way to build the adapter is to follow exactly the tutorial of Daniel using EOS lenses. It just that EOS lenses are expensive.


In conclusion:
1. Only use FD lenses
2. Don't buy FD-EOS adapter with corrective lens
3. Buy mount adapter with NO corrective lens
4. Adjust proper focal flange


I just want to be sure I understand this correctly, if I'm going to use FD lenses and manually adjust the focal flange to get infinite focus, I should NOT get the VH-57X as that seems to have a pre-set focal flange for EOS lenses, and I should instead get the VH-57 Ver. 1.1 and manually set the focal flange.
http://www.jetsetmodels.info/vibrating.htm

Thanks for helping to clear this up.

[Fletch78]

I just want to be sure I understand this correctly, if I'm going to use FD lenses and manually adjust the focal flange to get infinite focus, I should NOT get the VH-57X as that seems to have a pre-set focal flange for EOS lenses, and I should instead get the VH-57 Ver. 1.1 and manually set the focal flange.

Exactly. The VH-57X has two carbon pins to an additional plate to get the pre-set focal flange needed for EOS lenses. This distance can't be changed, therefor you need the VH-57 if you want to have a custom focal flange.

[Halsu]

Hi folks!

I finally got my vibrating adapter assembled for the first time. Still need to de-assemble it, do some fine tuning, cleaning etc. and solder some custom cables... but it's getting close.

http://eki.pp.fi/temp/Eki/HV20/35mm_adapter/firstlook/images/HalsuDOF_00.jpg

The camera is upside down, so the image doesn't need to be rotated in post. I used a Manfrotto/Bogen plate holder to rig the camera to the adapter, so setting up / removing the camera takes just a few seconds.

The basis for the adapter is some Nikon extension tubes and vibrating GG holder VH-54. There's also a +5 achromat close-up lens in there.

In case you wonder, there's also my DIY XLR/phantom adapter at the back (not connected on these shots), attached with velcro strips.

Here's more shots:

http://eki.pp.fi/temp/Eki/HV20/35mm_adapter/firstlook/

I will probably make a tutorial when i've finished this contraption... i made kazillion stupid and costly things while making it, which could have been easily avoided ;-)

[xcgeek]

Very nice, thanks for the pictures. That's one serious looking rig.

[twoneil]

The camera is upside down, so the image doesn't need to be rotated in post. I used a Manfrotto/Bogen plate holder to rig the camera to the adapter, so setting up / removing the camera takes just a few seconds.

In case you wonder, there's also my DIY XLR/phantom adapter at the back (not connected on these shots), attached with velcro strips.

Here's more shots:
http://eki.pp.fi/temp/Eki/HV20/35mm_adapter/firstlook/

I will probably make a tutorial when i've finished this contraption... i made kazillion stupid and costly things while making it, which could have been easily avoided ;-)

Cool! It looks very stable and strong; not your average consumer camcorder. You should also share and post this on the 'case mod' thread. I'm sure many will be inspired.

http://www.hv20.com/showthread.php?t=984

[Halsu]

Cool! It looks very stable and strong; not your average consumer camcorder. You should also share and post this on the 'case mod' thread. I'm sure many will be inspired.

http://www.hv20.com/showthread.php?t=984

Well, i posted the shot to that thread - though i wouldn't really consider my rig a case mod; everything in the rig is there for actual functionality, not for visual appearance ,-)

BTW, here's the blueprints for the box, some measures are a little off on these, i'll try to make new blueprints based on what we actually built soon.

http://eki.pp.fi/temp/Eki/HV20/35mm_adapter/Blueprints/

[DanDOF]

I've got questions regarding the use of an ACHROMAT (achromatic diopter lens).

I have heard some people say just buy an expensive and therefore good quality ACHROMAT lens to put between your camcorder and the focussing screen.

However, has anyone tried the affordable LENSBABIES (http://lensbabies.com/xcart/customer/product.php?productid=31&cat=6&page=1) macro set of lenses?

I would plan on using both the +10 and +4 lenses in order to decrease vignetting of the gg-holder.

What do people think about this? What kind of difference will I see between something like the LENSBABIES and a more expense ACHROMAT?

Thanks,
Dan

[ForwardLooker]

DanDof, I'm not sure what the quality of those would be like but I have a smiliar set of macros and the quality wasnt very good. I think as there quite cheap the quality of glass aint great. I found that my boque was effected and had some distortion in it. I have ordered the same HD macro as tkmslee (http://hv20.info/yopu/lehi1.mov):

http://images.channeladvisor.com/Sell/SSProfiles/12056235/Images/6/10x_hd2.jpg

Get em off ebay HERE (http://cgi.ebay.com/10x-HD-Pro-Macro-Lens-for-Fuji-Finepix-S7000-S602-6900_W0QQitemZ280137004471QQihZ018QQcategoryZ48528 QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem)

Looking at his results i think this is the perfect solution. The HD macro is multicoated so you get no internal reflections and has 4 Elements of glass to it. the cheaper macros generaly have 1 or 2 glass and have no multicoating.

[tkmslee]

DanDof, I'm not sure what the quality of those would be like but I have a smiliar set of macros and the quality wasnt very good. I think as there quite cheap the quality of glass aint great. I found that my boque was effected and had some distortion in it. I have ordered the same HD macro as tkmslee (http://hv20.info/yopu/lehi1.mov):

http://images.channeladvisor.com/Sell/SSProfiles/12056235/Images/6/10x_hd2.jpg

Get em off ebay HERE (http://cgi.ebay.com/10x-HD-Pro-Macro-Lens-for-Fuji-Finepix-S7000-S602-6900_W0QQitemZ280137004471QQihZ018QQcategoryZ48528 QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem)

Looking at his results i think this is the perfect solution. The HD macro is multicoated so you get no internal reflections and has 4 Elements of glass to it. the cheaper macros generaly have 1 or 2 glass and have no multicoating.

When I ordered one of these and got it in the mail, I was kind of scared because it was only 52mm and I thought it might cause some problems with vignetting...but I made it fit into the adapter and I was quite pleased.

[ForwardLooker]

When I ordered one of these and got it in the mail, I was kind of scared because it was only 52mm and I thought it might cause some problems with vignetting...but I made it fit into the adapter and I was quite pleased.

Yeh i remeber you saying this in an ealier post, so i made sure i got the one with a 58mm thread which is made for the Canon GL1 & GL2. I'm not sure why they dont just state the size of the thread in the listing :hv20-smilie51:

I got mine today and i'm just waiting for a stepping down ring before i cant test it.

[xcgeek]

Daniels Acromat http://www.jetsetmodels.info/pics/achromat2.jpg is only $21 US and seems to be a high quality glass. Has anyone tried this option yet, and if so how do you go about attaching the thing if the plastic ring is 42.9mm. It seems you could glue it inside a 43mm threading ring (maybe right into the step up ring to the EOS tubes, but I haven't started mine yet so I don't really know what I'm talking about yet) still trying to research everything.

[ForwardLooker]

tkmslee, just wondering if the lens diameter of these optex macros change with there thread size. I have the 58mm one and my lens measures at 37mm. yours is 52mm can u please tell me if its different?

[Halsu]

Here's some test footage from my adapter:

http://eki.pp.fi/temp/Eki/HV20/35mm_adapter/footage/

[ForwardLooker]

Here's some test footage from my adapter:

http://eki.pp.fi/temp/Eki/HV20/35mm_adapter/footage/

Very nice indeed!! :hv20-smilie77:

[Tomtebo]

indeed nice, but what about that sound, is it from the adapter or what :o ?

[tkmslee]

Yes very nice footage. I am thinking the macro lens makes a huge difference. Also, one thing I am afraid of having with a vibrating screen device is the sound. I think even if you have a good shotgun mic mounted on the HV20 it may still pick up that noise. Unless you mount you mic to a boom...but who can afford that?

Pro footage though. Nice!

[24Peter]

Also, one thing I am afraid of having with a vibrating screen device is the sound. I think even if you have a good shotgun mic mounted on the HV20 it may still pick up that noise. Unless you mount you mic to a boom...but who can afford that?


That adapter is very loud (too loud if you ask me). Not only couldn't you use a mic on-camera, but I would think placing a mic anywhere near the camera would pick up that sound.

As for the boom thing, you can get a nice boom and 25ft XLR cable for less than $100. You'll also need a Beachtek adapter (DXA-2s) for $179. (And of course you also need a shotgun or other mic that runs on battery power and a shockmount). So the thing about a boom isn't that it's expensive (I already have all that stuff); it's that it's awkward for the average shooter since you'll either need a stand if your subject is stationary (mic stands are even cheaper than booms) or another person to hold the boom while you both chase around your subject. A separate boom operator is standard fare for indie/pro film production, which I suspect, is when most of us would use a 35mm adapter with the HV20.

Still, with Halsu's adapter I'd be afraid to have my boom operator anywhere near the camera. Halsu's more of a pro than I am and I know the built-in mic can exaggerate the sound, but I'd be curious to see what others think.

[xcgeek]

Do other people's DIY vibrating adapters have this sound issue as well (I haven't noticed in any test footage, but often there is music overlay.) Are you using Daniel's black mamba pancake motor, or your own. Thanks

[twoneil]

Do other people's DIY vibrating adapters have this sound issue as well (I haven't noticed in any test footage, but often there is music overlay.) Are you using Daniel's black mamba pancake motor, or your own. Thanks

Even though I wired the adapter without a rheostat, the black mamba that I used didn't sound that loud (great footage by the way Halsu) compared to that footage. Even the old silver vibrator isn't that loud while using the on board mic.

The noise becomes unnoticeable once I covered the tube with UV filters and connected a resistor to set the voltage right.

What is the gg holder/vibrator that you are using Halsu?
I also saw some specks of dust that are not vibrating; same problem that I have with dusts accumulating on the UV filters.

[twoneil]

Here is a footage with the black mamba connected on a 1.5volt battery without a rheostat. You can hear a high pitch noise which is the vibrations and also the tape mechanism. This video is highly compressed by the way so image is not worth scrutinizing.

http://www.mediafire.com/?9mxytmzgydc

I'm guessing that Halsu has the mic in auto. Since there is no ambient noise in the room, the HV20 tends to amplify the sound from the vibrations of the motor.

[Halsu]

What is the gg holder/vibrator that you are using Halsu?
I also saw some specks of dust that are not vibrating; same problem that I have with dusts accumulating on the UV filters.

Actually, the vibrator isn't vibrating much on these shots...

I deliberately made the VH-54 GG holder temporarily more rigid, as i had some issues with the motion softening the image. Too rigid now i guess ;-)

As far as the sound goes, i probably had manual audio levels on quite high, didn't pay any attention to that.

For the kind of stuff i will shoot with the adapter, it's a non issue anyway - the sound is soft from outside, and i'd never use the camera's own mics for anything real - always either lavaliers or a boom mike.

...and a lot of the time there's no 100% audio at all.

[vibrations]

lovely footage halsu - did you shoot in cinemode?

[DanDOF]

I have acquired other lenses other than FDs. I've constructed this a couple of days ago. So if you want to use EOS lenses in the future, it will still be possible.
Here's another great option:
http://aycu29.webshots.com/image/24628/2005688713444547339_rs.jpg


Twoneil, could you tell me the measurement for the FD-EOS adapter? Mine STILL hasn't arrived yet, delaying my entire DOF adapter project.

[Brett A. Noe]

Don't trust what you hear from a built in mic. Those can pick up a gnat fart at 20 paces. :hv20-smilie03:

A rule I follow, "The on camera mic is for decoration." Unless you are shooting a kids birthday party!

[Halsu]

lovely footage halsu - did you shoot in cinemode?

Yep - i adjusted levels (mostly just .75 gamma) and added a tiny bit of sharpening in ther post.

[twoneil]

Twoneil, could you tell me the measurement for the FD-EOS adapter? Mine STILL hasn't arrived yet, delaying my entire DOF adapter project.

From the edge of the gg holder to the ring edge of the FD lens; I've measured it at 39mm. Great if you could set it at perfect 40mm.

It's good to have it done sooner, but it's better if it's done correctly.

[Fletch78]

If I may come back to the achromat/macro lens topic:

The Opteka HD macro that was mentioned looks nice, but it seems hard to get outside the US. So I've been looking around the net and found a 55mm +5 achromat, which is rather expensive, but seems to be of good quality. However, it looks as if it doesn't have an addition filter threading, so I wondered where exactly will I have to add the achromat? Will I have to glue it into some extension ring? What did you guys (and girls, of course, if there are any interested in this adapter thread! ;)) do to add the achromat/macro lens and still being able to easily connect the adapter to the camera? And how strong do you think the achromat/macro has to be? Will a +5 factor be enough or does it have to be +10 like the Opteka one?

By the way, in case you didn't notice yet: there's a new product on Daniel's page, namely a 60->55mm step down ring, which can be directly screwed onto the extension rings to get the standard 55mm threading. No more gluing of a 55mm UV filter (with or without glass) necessary.

http://www.jetsetmodels.info/pics/55_to_60.jpg

[twoneil]

By the way, in case you didn't notice yet: there's a new product on Daniel's page, namely a 60->55mm step down ring, which can be directly screwed onto the extension rings to get the standard 55mm threading. No more glueing of a 55mm UV filter (with or without glass) necessary.

http://www.jetsetmodels.info/pics/55_to_60.jpg

Finally, no more gluing. This adapter is finally out of the DIY category and into the pro.

I'm still double thinking about putting an achromat since I kind of like the slight vignetting effect on some of my works.

[Fletch78]

Finally, no more gluing. This adapter is finally out of the DIY category and into the pro.

I'm still double thinking about putting an achromat since I kind of like the slight vignetting effect on some of my works.

Yep, considering the quality you get just by putting together some quality parts (there are DIY adapter projects that use PVC tubes...), calling the adapter a DIY one is truly an understatement.

As for the achromat: so you'd say the achromat is not an absolutely necessary part? I could live with slight vignetting, after all, a lot of tv shows deliberately add a digital vignetting effect to their video footage to make it more "film like" (BBC's "Top Gear", for example). But what about barrel distortion? Is that an issue without an achromat?

[Box of Chocolates]

Twoneil, could you tell me the measurement for the FD-EOS adapter? Mine STILL hasn't arrived yet, delaying my entire DOF adapter project.

Don't the adapters vary in size (thinkness)? It might be better to buy one and measure it yourself. Honestly, I don't see why an adapter ring would change anything. Lot's of camera's use adapters and there's no need to adjust the distance between the position of the film/sensor, well at least from what I have seen which, from some points of view, isn't much.

[Fletch78]

Honestly, I don't see why an adapter ring would change anything. Lot's of camera's use adapters and there's no need to adjust the distance between the position of the film/sensor, well at least from what I have seen which, from some points of view, isn't much.

Unfortunately, the EOS->FD adapter isn't just a thin plate. The FD bayonet is significantly different than any other bayonets, so the adapter needs to be a lot thicker than other adapters (EOS->Nikon, for example). That's why the focal distance changes, making the distance to the focussing screen longer. That's also the reason there are two different kinds of EOS->FD adapters on the market: a simple metal threading, which, however, makes infinity focus impossible. And there's one with an additional lens which corrects the difference of the focal distance. However, the lens changes the focal range of the lens being used (I read about a factor around 1.4x; this would make a 55m lens almost a 80mm one!) and affects the overall image quality as well. That's why I decided to buy a simple EOS->Nikon converter and go for Nikkor lenses. Odd thing is, the cheapest way to get a 50mm 1.8 Nikkor lens is by buying a complete Nikon FE2 camera on eBay. Most people selling one don't seem to know the value of the lens itself (don't spread the word too much...we don't want them to know, do we? ;)).

[24Peter]

Unfortunately, the EOS->FD adapter isn't just a thin plate. The FD bayonet is significantly different than any other bayonets, so the adapter needs to be a lot thicker than other adapters (EOS->Nikon, for example). That's why the focal distance changes, making the distance to the focussing screen longer. That's also the reason there are two different kinds of EOS->FD adapters on the market: a simple metal threading, which, however, makes infinity focus impossible. And there's one with an additional lens which corrects the difference of the focal distance. However, the lens changes the focal range of the lens being used (I read about a factor around 1.4x; this would make a 55m lens almost a 80mm one!) and affects the overall image quality as well. That's why I decided to buy a simple EOS->Nikon converter and go for Nikkor lenses. Odd thing is, the cheapest way to get a 50mm 1.8 Nikkor lens is by buying a complete Nikon FE2 camera on eBay. Most people selling one don't seem to know the value of the lens itself (don't spread the word too much...we don't want them to know, do we? ;)).

Fletch - have you got a link to the EOS> Nikon adapter you are talking about?

[Fletch78]

Fletch - have you got a link to the EOS> Nikon adapter you are talking about?

Sure!

I've seen this one on enjoyyourcamera.com:
http://www.enjoyyourcamera.com/Canon-Accessories/Adapter-for-Nikon-lenses-on-EOS-cameras::46.html

But this one might be only interesting for people from Europe, as they don't ship to the USA, afik.

Thankfully, there are even cheaper ones on eBay with worldwide shipping. Have a look here (one example of many): http://cgi.ebay.com/Nikon-Lens-to-Canon-EOS-350D-400D-30D-20D-300D-Adapter_W0QQitemZ170139336302QQihZ007QQcategoryZ15 215QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem#ShippingP ayment

Here's an interesting thread on an other forum about different Nikon->EOS adapters:
http://www.camerahacker.com/Forums/DisplayComments.php?file=Lens/Adapter/EOSNIK.html

[Norbert]

Back on the achromat topic again. :D How is the achromat + holder for the HV20 coming along, Daniel? I myself belive that an achromat makes all the difference so I have been looking around for an achromat with around 65mm fl and 30-40mm diameter but I can't seem to find one. Also, if I found one I would still need a holder of some kind.

I like to know every part of the assembly before I start buying and assembling things so I don't have to modify anything later.

[xcgeek]

Back on the achromat topic again. :D How is the achromat + holder for the HV20 coming along, Daniel? I myself belive that an achromat makes all the difference so I have been looking around for an achromat with around 65mm fl and 30-40mm diameter but I can't seem to find one. Also, if I found one I would still need a holder of some kind.

I like to know every part of the assembly before I start buying and assembling things so I don't have to modify anything later.


I'm in the exact same boat as you and trying to research every part before ordering. I thought I had it all figured out and actually just put in an order to Daniel this week for all the parts I needed including Daniel's achromat: http://www.jetsetmodels.info/pics/achromat2.jpg but he wrote back and said that achromat will not work with the HV20. He recommend I order it by myself from here: (coated achromat from surplushed) http://www.surplusshed.com/pages/item/l4673.html as its much cheaper and you'll get it faster. When I queried about the how to deal with the outer ring diameter of 38.6mm here is what he said back:

"for the 38.6mm I cnc-ed an achromat holder that fits my 43mm-55mm step-up ring.
If you use the 38.6mm achromat from that link I gave you then you can build your dof adapter exactly like in my tutorial.
If you use other achromats then you have to experiment with different rings and maybe 2 extension tubes to increase the distance between the gg and the camcorder until you can frame and focus the complete gg. Trust me I ordered a lot of different achromats and tested them all out and that was the best solution so far using only one extension tube.

There is another way which does not involve so much work but costs a little more:
Get one of these high quality achromats (ask the seller that you will need an achromat with 55mm threadings the one in the auction is 58mm I think)
http://cgi.ebay.com/Opteka-Pro-HD-10x-Macro-Video-Lens-for-Canon-GL2-GL1_W0QQitemZ280143806840QQihZ018QQcategoryZ29964Q QssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Then you will need another extension tube that is screwed on your back of the adapter put on the +10 achromat and focus and frame with your HV20 on the gg. Thats all!

best regards
Daniel "

So although that helps answer some of our questions, I still have to figure out how to mount the 38.6mm achromat (maybe Daniel can CNC a part for that - I'll ask him for a quote on that and let you know)

PS: forgive my ignorance, but is there any difference between a "step up" and "step down" ring adapter. Thanks

[Norbert]

Wow, thanks! That answers a lot of questions indeed. The big question now is if it's going to be cheaper to order a cnc-ed holder from Daniel plus the achromat from surplushed than it would be to order the Opteka Pro HD and another tube.

Keep us informed! :)

[Box of Chocolates]

Just out of curiosity, what prompted many of you to build an adaptor for your camera? Do you want a more film-like look for home videos, or do you plan on using it for something a little bigger like filmmaking?

[Norbert]

Both for me actually. I will make an adapter to shoot home videos with until I can write a script and find the resources to make a film. I made a short film with a home made adapter (thorlabs tube and gg) once and I know I can do better. I had a blast shooting with the adapter but the image quality could've been much better.

[vibrations]

I still have to figure out how to mount the 38.6mm achromat

not as hard as it seems - i picked up one of the surplusshed L4673 achromats last week and it's pretty much as big as the 43mm part of the 43-55mm step up ring - maybe a mm or two to spare around the glass. i think teflon plumber's tape will probably be fine to make up the extra diameter, or perhaps a glued thick rubber band, and then some hotglue to make sure it doesn't move. the acromat is quite thick though, so i had to put another (glassless) hoya stepper ring in so that it wouldn't rub up against the (glass) hoya 'dustcap' on the end of the eos tube. i have a rotating stepper made from a (glassless) polarizing filter between the 43-55mm stepup ring as well, so i can align the hv20 with the focusing screen...
here's some photos of the acromat setup - i'll post a picture of the finished adapter later in the week!

[xcgeek]

the acromat is quite thick though, so i had to put another (glassless) hoya stepper ring in so that it wouldn't rub up against the (glass) hoya 'dustcap' on the end of the eos tube.

Thanks for the info, that helps a lot. I figured the achromat could serve as the 'dustcap', what do you think. (It's hard to research all the parts and visualize the adapter when so many of the concepts are new.)


Just out of curiosity, what prompted many of you to build an adaptor for your camera?

I do some short documentaries and so getting the film look could really enhance the artistic options available. A DIY for $200 is certainly a lot more attractive than the expensive commercial options, and with all this help, it's going to be a really fun project. :hv20-smilie77:

[vibrations]

I figured the achromat could serve as the 'dustcap', what do you think

good point - best to leave as little glass between the achromat and the focusing screen in case of unwanted reflections
- though i kinda want to seal up the focusing screen as much as possible, as it's pretty much impossible to clean it without leaving some kind of mark
i'm thinking of going into full cleanroom mode when i finally put the adapter together - white hazard suit, mask, gloves and booties,
slight positive air pressure in the room etc - can never be too sure : )

[vibrations]

another solution for achromat mounting would be to buy a 39mm -> 52mm step up ring - this can be glued snugly into the end of the 55mm rings and will center the achromat nicely...

[chimneybrothers]

another solution for achromat mounting would be to buy a 39mm -> 52mm step up ring - this can be glued snugly into the end of the 55mm rings and will center the achromat nicely...

you said 39>52 but your in your image i see 43>52. im just wondering, because this sound like the cleanest way to do it for super cheap.

[twoneil]

Could I ask for someone to post a comparison of a footage/image between an adapter with achromat and without an achromat.

[Norbert]

Could I ask for someone to post a comparison of a footage/image between an adapter with achromat and without an achromat.I believe Daniel did that earlier in this thread, showing the barrel distortion without an achromat.

[Fletch78]

As I'm outside the US, I'd prefer to get my parts from Europe only (shipment/duty issues). I thought about getting a 55mm achromat to screw onto Daniel's 60->55mm stepdown ring and finally, as the achromat doesn't have an additional threading, gluing a ->43mm stepdown (I'd have to figure out which size would fit best, maybe 52->43mm) into it. Maybe it would even work without gluing, if the size of the stepdown ring could fit snuggly into the achromat.

Any thoughts? I still wonder, btw, how strong the achromat has got to be. Will +5 be enough?

[vibrations]

you said 39>52 but your in your image i see 43>52
the picture's just to show that the 52 will fit into the end of the 55 - for illustration purposes only as they say.
i'm not even sure if the achromat will fit in a 39mm ring, though the numbers appear to add up - i'll know in a week or so...

[Worley]

@Fletch, I believe that in the UK you are allowed to import small value items without worry about the duty.

However, this may have changed - I notice a lot of sites state that TAX has to added for shipment to the UK (Sony does this, for example), so you CAN buy overseas and not have to worry about being hit for tax, as you have already paid.

[uFx]

I was wondering: does an achromat also limit the amount of vignetting? On my adapter I still have a large amount of vignetting (because I cannot zoom in any further without losing focus).

[Worley]

I don't think an achromat will reduce the vignetting.

I spoke to a photographer acquaintance of mine, and he mentioned that it is the surface structure of the focussing screen that reduces vignetting. With my own DIY screen, there was a lot of vignetting, but with a Canon Ee-S, there is none.

On a commercial focussing screen the two sides are different, there is a matt side and a shiny side. One side has a series of very fine concentric circles - catch the light and you can see them. It is these circles that eliminate the vignetting as far as I can tell.

[Norbert]

Yes, the built in fresnel in the EE-S will reduce vignetting. With a home made gg I think a pcx could reduce some vignetting.
Last time I built an adapter I used a cheap macro instead of an achromat and it seemed to me that it reduced the vignetting a bit, and I recon an achromat should do the job just as fine. I also had a pcx which helped but it caused some barrel distiortion instead. Maybe two pcx lenses on each side of the gg with the plano sides facing each other would cancel out the distortion? Like this: (|)

[xcgeek]

With my own DIY screen, there was a lot of vignetting, but with a Canon Ee-S, there is none.

Hmm, I was planning on making my own wax focus screens, but I don't want to waste my time if it produces a sub-par images. Are you using an Ee-S or Ee-A screen then yourself then instead of your wax ones.


Daniel got back to me about a CNC's holder for the 38.6mm achromat and he said it all depends on your 43-55mm step up ring as they are all different. As vibrations pointed out, the fit is quite close, and Daniel agreed that depending on your step up ring, you may not need anything fancy to mount the achromat. So I'm going to order as many pieces as I can before placing my order with Daniel so I know more closely what I need.

[Worley]

I have made a few wax screens. It's pretty easy, but if you get the pressure slightly wrong during the heating phase, then the was doesn't disperse properly and sets unevenly.

Cutting the slides to size is also difficult without a glass cutter!

I'm using a Canon Ee-S. £18 from eBay.

[twoneil]

I think with the help of the achromat, you can focus closer on the focusing screen, thus reducing the vignetting effect. But now that you're using only part of the screen, you also lose some light. It would be nice to capture the image on the whole focusing screen without vignetting.

[tkmslee]

I think with the help of the achromat, you can focus closer on the focusing screen, thus reducing the vignetting effect. But now that you're using only part of the screen, you also lose some light. It would be nice to capture the image on the whole focusing screen without vignetting.

Yeah I'd like to know what the physics are here so that we could do this. It seems like if you just look into the thing with the naked eye that there is no vignetting or barrel distortion.

So why does it change when the video camera is looking at it?

[Fletch78]

I'm using a Canon Ee-S. £18 from eBay.

Any particular reasons why you went for the Ee-S? According to Daniel & technical specs found on the net, it's much less bright than the Ee-A. The Ee-S apparently has got some kind of microlenses, which make focusing easier. I wonder if that still applies when used in an adapter.

[Norbert]

From what I've read, the EE-S shows a more convincing bokeh than the EE-A. Correct me if I am wrong.
Some people seem to have hot spot problems with the EE-A also.

[Worley]

I believe the EE-A has a brighter image - great if you are using a smaller aperture, but the EE-S is easier to focus with. Certainly, I have no problems with the focussing, and I find the image bright enough for me (using wide apertures of between 1.4 and 2.0).

[twoneil]

...On a commercial focussing screen the two sides are different, there is a matt side and a shiny side...

I experimented if one side is better than the other (which is facing the camera). The results are practically the same. So, better be on the safe side and face the matte side to the camera.

[uFx]

Thank for the replies about the vignetting. Could it be the lens causing the vignetting? I'm using a Canon F1.8 50mm but this lens does not have an aperture ring so I don't know which aperture he uses when mounted on my DIY adapter (hopefully 1.8 :D).

I really like my adapter but there are only two things to fix: the flipped LCD and the amount of vignetting :)

[revlution08]

ok i was looking at www.jetsetmodels.com and i dont understand his pricing. sorry if its a dumb question but how much is 66,-?

[twoneil]

Here are the minimum requirements to build a quality 35mm adapter (hence the cheapest) with links.

1 Canon Ee-A or Ee-S Focusing screen (http://cgi.ebay.ca/OFFICIAL-CANON-Ee-A-focusing-screen-from-Japan_W0QQitemZ160145952680QQihZ006QQcategoryZ7900 0QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem)$25.99
1 EOS extension Tube (http://cgi.ebay.ca/Extension-Tube-Macro-Ring-for-Canon-EOS-5D-30D-400D-A73_W0QQitemZ160149025948QQihZ006QQcategoryZ30059Q QssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem)$8.99
1 Static GG holder SH_57EE (http://www.jetsetmodels.info/pics/sh_57ee.jpg)$20.00
1 55mm - 60mm Step up ring (http://cgi.ebay.ca/55mm-60mm-Step-Up-ring-adapter-filter-size-55-to-60_W0QQitemZ200140602677QQihZ010QQcategoryZ30059QQ rdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem)$13.00
1 43mm - 55mm Step up ring (http://cgi.ebay.ca/43mm-55mm-Step-up-filter-ring-Stepping-Adapter-to-43-55_W0QQitemZ140149983488QQihZ004QQcategoryZ43479QQ ssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem)$1.99
1 Nikon - Eos Adapter (http://cgi.ebay.ca/Nikon-Lens-to-Canon-EOS-adapter-for-20d-350d-30d-400d_W0QQitemZ180151739071QQihZ008QQcategoryZ30059 QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem)$7.80
1 Nikkon 50mm f1.8 lens (http://cgi.ebay.ca/Nikon-Nikkor-50mm-1-8-AIS-MF-Lens-50-NR-19451_W0QQitemZ110160566118QQihZ001QQcategoryZ4855 6QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem)Expect from $.99 to $60

Total: $77.77 w/o lens & shipping.

Expect shipping cost to be around $70

[Norbert]

ok i was looking at www.jetsetmodels.com and i dont understand his pricing. sorry if its a dumb question but how much is 66,-?It also says EUR or USD.

[twoneil]

Not too annoy you people with my numerous, insane questions, but why give me Daniel's url as he only has vibrating tutorials?

I saw on the "Free 35mm adapter" thread that your adapter is quite small, and tkmslee's one is quite large.. (Gee, strange conversation this is turning out to be! :D)

God, I hope I don't mess it up when I make it, I can just see giant dust particles on the lens after I made it! :D

Daniel makes static gg holders too. I don't think a tutorial is necessary since no electronic parts is required.

That's because tkmslee has an achromat, mine doesn't. It's a choice between size vs quality. You should be comfortable on a compromise.

Try to get familiar with the terms and understand all the concepts of a 35mm adapter before you jump right away in making one. It should save you big time, money & frustration.

Messing a static adapter is highly unlikely.
The only crucial & sensitive part is really just the focusing screen (not a single dust should lay on it's virgin surface!).
It is crucial not have the surface touch anything (no cloth, no q-tips, no fingers, no liquids, nada).

[skerit]

Daniel makes static gg holders too. I don't think a tutorial is necessary since no electronic parts is required.

That's because tkmslee has an achromat, mine doesn't. It's a choice between size vs quality. You should be comfortable on a compromise.

Try to get familiar with the terms and understand all the concepts of a 35mm adapter before you jump right away in making one. It should save you big time, money & frustration.
Messing a static adapter is highly unlikely. The only crucial & sensitive part is really just the focusing screen (not a single dust should lay on it's virgin surface! hehe). Well, it would be ideal not have the surface touch anything (no cloth, no q-tips, no fingers, no liquids, nada).

Oh my, now I get it! ... I think I just couldn't believe it was that simple! Now i know why they say you don't need to glue anything anymore! :P

I didn't fully undrstand what a GG holder was, but now I see you only need a GG holder & an extension tube *and* a focussing screen, et voila! You've got yourself a static adapter. (Right?)

But, will the extension tube fir the HV20 automatically? I see it's meant for the cameras, actually, and am not sure if they'll just work...

I'm so sorry for all the miss-understanding on my part! :)

[Worley]

The only crucial & sensitive part is really just the focusing screen (not a single dust should lay on it's virgin surface! hehe). Well, it would be ideal not have the surface touch anything (no cloth, no q-tips, no fingers, no liquids, nada).

I'll second that. The screens are a real PITA to clean if anything touches them. I got a speck of glue on mine, and it took ages to remove. Of course, if you have decent tools, you won't have this problem!

[twoneil]

I didn't fully undrstand what a GG holder was, but now I see you only need a GG holder & an extension tube *and* a focussing screen, et voila! You've got yourself a static adapter. (Right?)
& Lens & lens adapter & step down rings too!....yeah pretty much.



But, will the extension tube fit the HV20 automatically? I see it's meant for the cameras, actually, and am not sure if they'll just work...

The extension tube is 60mm in diameter. You will need step-up rings that will fit the HV20, which is 43mm.

All the things I've listed above (http://www.hv20.com/showpost.php?p=16089&postcount=314) are the only requirements. It cannot be done properly if you miss an item.

[skerit]

Ok, I nearly got them all ...

I just need to order the static gg holder with daniel, and I also thought to get the step-up ring there, because it doesn't need glueing on his site?

Then, the only thing that rests me is the nikon 50mm f1.8 lens, will any of them do? Any of the nikon lenses with those 2 specs?

Oh, and I also saw I needed something as a space divider for the static gg holder/focussin screen?

Oh, and I also ordered the camera earlier today! :) Things are going well, all I need now is a green screen, lighting for the green screen, a light for the camera itself & a tripod.

Will the onboard mic do, or is it best to get a new one there, too?

[twoneil]

Then, the only thing that rests me is the nikon 50mm f1.8 lens, will any of them do? Any of the nikon lenses with those 2 specs?

Nikkon 50mm f1.8 or Nikkon 50mm f1.4 is a good start.
You could get another 28mm next time.



Oh, and I also saw I needed something as a space divider for the static gg holder/focussin screen?

For this particular set-up, you don't need a space divider. The extension tubes will be sufficient.



Will the onboard mic do, or is it best to get a new one there, too?

This isn't my particular expertise, regardless, I don't use the on board mic.

[pascalbrown]

Can someone just clarify something for me. Say I built an adapter, and then put on my 18-35mm lens, would I have a wide angle view? ie. would 18mm on the video camera equate to 18mm on my SLR?

Also, did I read that you have to use none auto focus lenses? My lens is a newish AF but it can be set to be used manually. Would that be any good?

[twoneil]

Can someone just clarify something for me. Say I built an adapter, and then put on my 18-35mm lens, would I have a wide angle view? ie. would 18mm on the video camera equate to 18mm on my SLR?


Yeah, I suppose. The problem with zoom lens is the light loss. I prefer a prime lens over that, below f-stop 2. Plus, you won't get a shallow DOF with a wide angle lens which is the purpose of the 35mm adapter.
(The name '35mm adapter' is simply what we call the adapter and it's not necessarily a 35mm lens; just to clarify). You could use your AF lens in manual w/ no problem.

[jondabach]

anyone willing to sell theirs please contact me with a price. Also, if anyone has one that would fit an HVX200 I would be interested in that as well.

[thewinelake]

You've got an 18-35mm full frame SLR lens? That's impressive!
Does the infamous DOF result from large aperture and large focal plane?
Presumably once kisses goodbye to autofocus with these jobbies.

I was also wondering if another way to do it might be to take a camera with an interchangeable viewfinder (eg. some of the old Nikon film cameras or even a mdeium format like a Bronica or Hasselblad) put in a plain focusing screen (you don't want split prism type stuff) and then mount your video camera into an adapted waist-level finder....

Not a particularly cheap way to do it, I confess, but just checking out the theory.

[skerit]

Lol, can't stress this enough; I'm sorry for the nagging, but you're already teaching me a whole lot! :P

Anyway, will this lens cut it? It doesn't seem to have an AIS mount ...

Nikon-Nikkor-AF-50mm-F1.8D (http://cgi.benl.ebay.be/Nikon-Nikkor-AF-50mm-50-mm-F-1-8D-1-8-D-F1-8D-F1-8-Lens_W0QQitemZ260151152884QQihZ016QQcategoryZ30070 QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem)

[pascalbrown]

You've got an 18-35mm full frame SLR lens? That's impressive!
Does the infamous DOF result from large aperture and large focal plane?
Presumably once kisses goodbye to autofocus with these jobbies.

I was also wondering if another way to do it might be to take a camera with an interchangeable viewfinder (eg. some of the old Nikon film cameras or even a mdeium format like a Bronica or Hasselblad) put in a plain focusing screen (you don't want split prism type stuff) and then mount your video camera into an adapted waist-level finder....

Not a particularly cheap way to do it, I confess, but just checking out the theory.


Well, I actually have a few lenses, but the one I mentioned is a spare one that I thought I might be able to use. It's this one;

http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/images1/1835af.jpg

However, I know that this lens doesn't have a particularly large aperture but I also have a 17-35mm which is f2.8. This one;

http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/images1/1735.jpg

But that isn't spare and I don't really want to start messing about with it!

Anyway, can someone just clarify one more thing. The wideness of the lens on the adapter will change the wideness of the shot in the HV20? Obviously an 85mm lens will give me greater telephoto abilities, but would a 24mm f2.8 give me a nice wide angle? Something like this perhaps;

http://i17.ebayimg.com/04/i/000/b0/3a/92f5_1.JPG

Sorry for the all the questions. I'm asking because I'm trying to figure out if I will need to buy an H43 in addition to a 35mm adapter.

[ForwardLooker]

would a 24mm f2.8 give me a nice wide angle? Something like this perhaps;

http://i17.ebayimg.com/04/i/000/b0/3a/92f5_1.JPG


Yes it would, f2.8 isnt great with the adapters indoor but you can work with it. I have a 28mm f2.8 and i need extra lightling to get a good raw image indoors.

[twoneil]

Lol, can't stress this enough; I'm sorry for the nagging, but you're already teaching me a whole lot! :P

Anyway, will this lens cut it? It doesn't seem to have an AIS mount ...

Nikon-Nikkor-AF-50mm-F1.8D (http://cgi.benl.ebay.be/Nikon-Nikkor-AF-50mm-50-mm-F-1-8D-1-8-D-F1-8D-F1-8-Lens_W0QQitemZ260151152884QQihZ016QQcategoryZ30070 QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem)

Yes, you will get a nice shallow dof with that. Just make sure it fits the Nikon->EOS adapter.

And if you have a Canon EF lens, you don't need an adapter.


Yes it would, f2.8 isnt great with the adapters indoor but you can work with it. I have a 28mm f2.8 and i need extra lightling to get a good raw image indoors.

f2.8 and lower is fine. Anything higher than that and the grains of the focusing screen would be visible.

[pascalbrown]

Good to know, thanks twoneil.

[skerit]

How about this one?

http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170142074887&ssPageName=MERCOSI_VI_ROSI_PR4_PCN_BIX_Stores&refitem=110160566118&itemcount=4&refwidgetloc=closed_view_item&refwidgettype=osi_widget#ShippingPayment

Even though it's much further away, America, it's still cheaper to buy! :D And it seems to have an ais mount ...

However, it's only a small price difference, and the other one does look a bit more impressive :P

Not that looks count, but still .. And how can I make sure it'll fit when I don't have it :S

Just looking for certainty :)

[vibrations]

hi folks
the 39mm -> 55mm stepup ring arrived today (from fotodiox)
and it's a little too small for the L4673 surplusshed achromat
c'est la vie!

[skerit]

Not to annoy annyone, but it's a big sale, so ..

http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170142074887&ssPageName=MERCOSI_VI_ROSI_PR4_PCN_BIX_Stores&refitem=110160566118&itemcount=4&refwidgetloc=closed_view_item&refwidgettype=osi_widget#ShippingPayment
How about that one? I wanna make sure it fits! :)

[wolferic]

Not to annoy annyone, but it's a big sale, so ..

http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170142074887&ssPageName=MERCOSI_VI_ROSI_PR4_PCN_BIX_Stores&refitem=110160566118&itemcount=4&refwidgetloc=closed_view_item&refwidgettype=osi_widget#ShippingPayment
How about that one? I wanna make sure it fits! :)

I used to have this lens for my SLR. It's a fine lens, but the 'E' series were the cheapest lenses Nikon made (and the 50mm is the cheapest one to make) so don't expect anything exceptional.

It is, however, extremely small and light if that is important to you.

Personally, if you are going to use it for a DOF adapter, I would hold out for an f1.4 model: the extra light you get as well as a better lens quality is worth twice the starting price for this lens.

Me, I'm just waiting to get all my parts so I can attach my f1.2 Nikon… it's a huge piece of glass that focuses extremely close and gives a beautiful out-of-focus image.

[DanDOF]

Hi there,
I've been having problems with my DIY DOF adapter.
I had to re-solder the wires on my vibrating motor and accidentally melted a small, very noticeable, hole into my Canon EE-A focus screen.

Ya. Ouch.

Anyway, since then I've been considering adjusting the gg-holder for better infinity focus or perhaps just creating a separate STATIC GG-HOLDER with a new GROUND GLASS.

I AM LOOKING AT ALTERNATIVES FOR GROUND GLASS.

1. THORLABS has a 2" round ground glass diffuser (either 600 (http://www.thorlabs.com/thorProduct.cfm?partNumber=DG20-600) or 1500 (http://www.thorlabs.com/thorProduct.cfm?partNumber=DG20-1500) grit, i.e. fine not gritty), but I am not sure if it would be capable of a clear image. What do you people think?

2. BRILLIANT GROUND GLASS (http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170136494934)has an ebay store selling ground glass, and taking customs orders for sizes etc. I would only buy this if they could make a custom size to fit into the macro tubes of the DOF adapter. What do you think?

3. J-XYZ WORLD (http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=160141168134&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT&ih=006) is another ebay store, the only one i found selling Canon EE-A or EE-S focus screens. Unfortuntaley the seller appears to be currently out of EE-A screens.


I am really curious about option number 1. Anyone know if THORLABS ground glass "diffuser" is capable of the same or even better image clarity of a Canon EE-A focus screen?

Thanks,
Dan

[Norbert]

I used the 1500 grit from Thorlabs in my previous static adapter. It worked well but I never got around the sphearical aberration and distortion which I think was caused by my pcx and macro lense. Anyway, this GG works just fine apart from some slightly noticable grain, but I'm not sure I would use it again since it needs at least one pcx to help get rid of the vignetting. I am also unsure how well it captures the bokeh of the lense.

Here's a link to a guy that uses a "Thorlabs-adapter": http://www.kokokaka.com/35mm/

[pascalbrown]

So, I'm assuming that the sensor in the hv20 is smaller than a 35mm frame, so this is goign to mean that a 50mm lens will not give a 50mm image (so to speak). What I would like to know is what things are equivalent to.

If I put a 50mm lens on my slr I will get a viewing angle of about 40 degrees. That same lens on an HV20 will give what sort of horizontal viewing angle?

Thanks

[wolferic]

So, I'm assuming that the sensor in the hv20 is smaller than a 35mm frame, so this is goign to mean that a 50mm lens will not give a 50mm image (so to speak). What I would like to know is what things are equivalent to.

If I put a 50mm lens on my slr I will get a viewing angle of about 40 degrees. That same lens on an HV20 will give what sort of horizontal viewing angle?

Thanks

Pascal -

Although I haven't yet built my DOF adapter, I believe that you're thinking is a bit confused. IF you were to put the lens directly on the camera (in place of the existing lens, which is very unlikely if not impossible), then you would have an issue with the sensor to 35mm frame size difference.

But of course you aren't doing that: you are PROJECTING the 50mm image onto a ground glass and recording that image. Therefore - I believe - you should be closer to the same image magnification that you would get with a 35mm frame – which is close to the size of the ground glass in your adapter.

(This is of course ignoring any zooming-in via the HV20 lens or through the use of a diopter/achromat which would mean that you weren't using the full image area of the ground glass).

But hey, like I say I don't have a DOF adapter yet, so maybe my thinking is off: I'd love to hear from someone (Daniel, maybe?) who knows how much of the viewing angle is lost during the 'adaptating.'

[pascalbrown]

AHA! You are right, and that just cleared it up actually. You are projecting on to a full 35mm frame, which you are focusing on with the hv20. Therefore, if you can get that whole 35mm frame aligned correctly and you don't have ot zoom in on it then you will indeed have the actual lens angle. What you lose will depend on how much you have to zoom in on the gg.

Something so simple that I got so mixed up. Thanks for clearing it up wolferic.

[wolferic]

I had exactly the same confusion when I was starting to think about building an adapter. It must come from the film camera to digital camera thinking us old codgers carried over from the analogue world. :hv20-smilie64:

Still, I would like to know approximately how much of the ground glass is actually reproduced: 98%? 75%? It would make a difference to the true focal length.

[pascalbrown]

old codger? I only just turned 25! :)

I too would like to know how much is actually reproduced. As soon as I get my adapter (thanks Worley!) fitted to a lens and then to my hv20 I'll try and do some tests.

[Worley]

25? You youngster, you!

I have hit middle age... but my children make me feel young again.

No, wait, that's the senility. The children have aged me immeasurably.

Pass the colostomy bag, nurse.

[skerit]

Good god,

I have yet to turn 20! (in October) But hey, I remember the analog world very well!

But I'm one of the last, in a few years, no 19-year olds will remember the sound of a modem dialing in, or a cassette tape getting ejected, or the sound a floppy disk makes, etcetera :P

[DanDOF]

I used the 1500 grit from Thorlabs in my previous static adapter. It worked well but I never got around the sphearical aberration and distortion which I think was caused by my pcx and macro lense. Anyway, this GG works just fine apart from some slightly noticable grain, but I'm not sure I would use it again since it needs at least one pcx to help get rid of the vignetting. I am also unsure how well it captures the bokeh of the lense.

Here's a link to a guy that uses a "Thorlabs-adapter": http://www.kokokaka.com/35mm/

Thanks Norbert,

QUESTION: What's a "pcx"? and how does it reduce vignetting?

[twoneil]

Hi there,

I AM LOOKING AT ALTERNATIVES FOR GROUND GLASS.

2. BRILLIANT GROUND GLASS (http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170136494934)has an ebay store selling ground glass, and taking customs orders for sizes etc. I would only buy this if they could make a custom size to fit into the macro tubes of the DOF adapter. What do you think?


I talked to this guy long before I made my DOF adapter. He does custom sizes, but I think the grains might be more noticeable than Ee-S.



He said:
"To be honest, I have to say that I think the grit would show, but I can't say for sure. I'd be happy to custom cut a piece at 1.5x1" for $4.99 plus shipping if you want to try it out though.

The thinnest stuff I have is about 1.85mm"

1.85, that's still thicker than the Ee-S.

[Norbert]

Thanks Norbert,

QUESTION: What's a "pcx"? and how does it reduce vignetting?A pcx is a plano convex lense that looks like the letter D. It has one plane side and one convex side. I don't know exactly how it reduces vignetting but I think it gathers light and helps distribute it evenly on the GG (which the built in fresnel does for the EE-S), or if you put it on the side that's facing the camera, it will gather the light from the image on the GG.
The best way to do it is to put one pcx on each side of the GG with their plane sides facing the GG, like a sandwich. I believe that will cancel out the distortion you would get from using only one pcx. I never did that myself though.

[Tomtebo]

is it just me or is http://www.jetsetmodels.info/ down?

[wolferic]

is it just me or is http://www.jetsetmodels.info/ down?

Yep. Daniel must have his hands busy designing all that new stuff for us… I'm hoping he's just too busy putting together my achromat to fix the website. :hv20-smilie84:

[revlution08]

ok so i found an old camera of mine that had a lense so i was wonderin if this would work for an adapter. its not nikon or canon but if it will work i would use this one for now. check it out.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Minolta-Maxxum-330si-Film-Camera-Quantaray-MX-AF-Lens_W0QQitemZ270160935797QQihZ017QQcategoryZ43493 QQcmdZViewItem

[Fletch78]

(...) so i was wonderin if this would work for an adapter. its not nikon or canon but if it will work i would use this one for now.

It would work with the adapter, using an additional Minolta adapter, but honestly I (and I think most will agree) would recommend against it. The fastest aperture of the lens is 3.5, which is quite slow. It's been mentioned before, but suitable lenses to work with on an DOF adapter shouldn't be slower than 2.0 as the fastest aperture, as anything slower eats up too much light and would make additional indoors lighting necessary. 1.2 is fantastic, 1.4 great, 1.8 is good. I'd suggest you look for a cheap fixed (i.e. 50 or 55mm) Nikon lens with the mentioned apertures.

BTW: I placed my order at Daniel's shop a few days ago and haven't heard from him since. Now his website is down...anyone been in contact with him lately? I really hope he didn't discontinue his fantastic products...they're one of a kind.

[Norbert]

I was just going to ask what happened to Daniels web site but I see I'm not the only one to miss it. If anyone hears from him, please let us know.
I hope he's just busy working on the achromat+holder so I can place a big order at his shop as soon as it's done. :)

[daniel schaumberger]

Hi guys,

I was very busy the last days and I had also to change my internet provider because of the bandwidth limit. I hope to put it online in the course of next week.

Regarding the achromats I ditched the surplus achromats because they were used and 7 of 10 had errors (chips, scratches...). I got high quality carl zeiss achromats from germany now and will use them in my projects. The drawback is you have to use 2 extension tubes. For your diyers out there I will put the order number from surplushed on my homepage so you can still try them out.

best regards
Daniel

www.jetsetmodels.info/news.htm
(should be online in the course of next week)

[Tomtebo]

Nice! that great that your website will be up and running soon! i was worried for a second there :)

[Norbert]

That's good news! Well, it's bad news that the achromat wasn't any good and that we possibly have to get another tube, but it's good news that you will not stop until you find the perfect solution. :)

[Daan Pol]

Hi guys,

I was very busy the last days and I had also to change my internet provider because of the bandwidth limit. I hope to put it online in the course of next week.

Regarding the achromats I ditched the surplus achromats because they were used and 7 of 10 had errors (chips, scratches...). I got high quality carl zeiss achromats from germany now and will use them in my projects. The drawback is you have to use 2 extension tubes. For your diyers out there I will put the order number from surplushed on my homepage so you can still try them out.

best regards
Daniel

www.jetsetmodels.info/news.htm
(should be online in the course of next week)

Thanks for the update Daniel!

I wonder, does this mean your i35 custom made 35MM adapter needs an extra extension tube too?

Good luck with the website! I really like the frequent updates.

[xsoto]

Hey, so I was wondering if anyone knew what was going on with Daniel's site? I was hoping to take a look at his tutorials but it seems as if his site has been down for a couple of months now.

Thanks in advance.

[duketh]

Hey, so I was wondering if anyone knew what was going on with Daniel's site? I was hoping to take a look at his tutorials but it seems as if his site has been down for a couple of months now.

Thanks in advance.

the post above you might answer your question?

[dr jones]

daniel, thanks for your contributions. the footage of these adapters are looking absolutely amazing. i can't wait for your website to go back up so i can make my own!


btw, i have a 58mm century optics achromat. how will i connect that to the extension tube, and will i need 1 extension tube or 2?

[daniel schaumberger]

Hi Dr Jones,

if you want to use only 1 extension tube then buy this achromat:
http://www.surplusshed.com/pages/item/l4673.html
The problem is they're used and can have errors (chips, scratches...) but are working fine and are cheap too.

The century optics achromat I think its only +7 and this is too weak.

Also some guys here on the forum said that this Opteka +10 is very good:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Opteka-Pro-10x-HD-Macro-Lens-for-Kodak-Easyshare-Z612_W0QQitemZ280148790623QQihZ018QQcategoryZ11618 7QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

The easiest way is to buy a Opteka +10 with 55mm threading and screw it to your extension tube.
You'll need to glue a 55mm UV-Filter into the extension tube or get a Step-Up ring 55-60mm to have a 55mm standard threading.

best regards
Daniel

I hope to get the homepage back online in the course of next week.

[skerit]

Argh, I just got all my items, I received the camera yesterday, the first few adapter bits arrived last week and the last one, the lens & Daniel's stuff, arrived today. NOW.. I need the tutorial! :D

Guess I'll see how well I'll do on my own...

[24Peter]

Also some guys here on the forum said that this Opteka +10 is very good:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Opteka-Pro-10x-HD-Macro-Lens-for-Kodak-Easyshare-Z612_W0QQitemZ280148790623QQihZ018QQcategoryZ11618 7QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem



Opteka 10X w/58mm thread from same guys for less: http://www.amazon.com/Opteka-58mm-Professional-Macro-Canon/dp/B000GBCYF2/ref=sr_1_1/103-8346145-1914226?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1189180748&sr=8-1

[suta]

my idea is a larger 72mm macro lens for my HV10+vibra35mm adapter
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=280149072956&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=018

i hope more minimize the chromatic aberrations on the picture edges...

[tkmslee]

my idea is a larger 72mm macro lens for my HV10+vibra35mm adapter
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=280149072956&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=018

i hope more minimize the chromatic aberrations on the picture edges...

Suta,

I think I will try these for a lens adapter I am making for someone. It looks like the same type of glass and everything...I just hope that putting that much glass together won't cause aberrations.

[dr jones]

Hi Dr Jones,

if you want to use only 1 extension tube then buy this achromat:
http://www.surplusshed.com/pages/item/l4673.html
The problem is they're used and can have errors (chips, scratches...) but are working fine and are cheap too.

The century optics achromat I think its only +7 and this is too weak.

Also some guys here on the forum said that this Opteka +10 is very good:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Opteka-Pro-10x-HD-Macro-Lens-for-Kodak-Easyshare-Z612_W0QQitemZ280148790623QQihZ018QQcategoryZ11618 7QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

The easiest way is to buy a Opteka +10 with 55mm threading and screw it to your extension tube.
You'll need to glue a 55mm UV-Filter into the extension tube or get a Step-Up ring 55-60mm to have a 55mm standard threading.

best regards
Daniel

I hope to get the homepage back online in the course of next week.
i just realized i have a 58mm b+w macro +10 laying around, so i'm going to use that and sell my century optics +7.

but why would i need to glue a 55mm uv filter into the extension tube? i don't understand that part..

[Fletch78]

i just realized i have a 58mm b+w macro +10 laying around, so i'm going to use that and sell my century optics +7.

You just have to know that your B&W is most likely NOT an achromatic lens, so the picture quality MAY not be as good as you wish (sharpness loss towards the edges, chromatic aberrations). I'm going to order a cheap mulitcoated +10 macro lens as well, though, just to try it out (the Opteka is a bit expensive for me because of the shipping costs outside the US). Somehow I just don't like the idea of using another set of extension tubes (sometimes size DOES matter...).

What I don't get though: Daniel told me that the "macro"/achromat has got to have a diopter factor of at least +9. Others, however, said that they were able to use Daniel's adapter even without any macro/achromat at all, with slight vignetting and distortion. Now I asked myself if using a reasonable priced +5 achromat (enjoyyourcamera.com has got one, interesting for european buyers) weren't better than not using one at all?


but why would i need to glue a 55mm uv filter into the extension tube? i don't understand that part..

In order to connect the adapter to your cam, you need to use rings down to 43mm of the HV20. However, the extension tubes have a thread of 60mm, and step down rings with this diameter are almost non existant. That's why Daniel suggested to glue an empty (no glass) UV filter into the last ring to get a standard thread of 55mm. With that, you can use a standard 55>43 step down ring. Instead of the gluing you could also order Daniel's specially manufactured 60>55mm step down ring (that's what I did: less gluing, less trouble).

[dr jones]

What I don't get though: Daniel told me that the "macro"/achromat has got to have a diopter factor of at least +9. Others, however, said that they were able to use Daniel's adapter even without any macro/achromat at all, with slight vignetting and distortion. Now I asked myself if using a reasonable priced +5 achromat (enjoyyourcamera.com has got one, interesting for european buyers) weren't better than not using one at all?





well if some people are able to use the adapter without an achromat, then surely my +7 achromat would be MORE than acceptable. i think i'm going to try my +7 and see if it works.

by the way, who said they don't need a macro/achromat?

[suta]

Suta,

I think I will try these for a lens adapter I am making for someone. It looks like the same type of glass and everything...I just hope that putting that much glass together won't cause aberrations.

Tkmslee,

if your adapter complete and use 72mm +10 macro please send a demo footage ! ;)

[twoneil]

well if some people are able to use the adapter without an achromat, then surely my +7 achromat would be MORE than acceptable. i think i'm going to try my +7 and see if it works.

by the way, who said they don't need a macro/achromat?

It's more of a choice between; with achromat or no achromat....
and if you would put an achromat, it should be the best achromat or nothing at all.

so i think that we could categorize these configurations from good to best (depending on your preference).

For me, I prefer my videos free from color aberration. So I consider these:

Best : with quality achromat with no aberration & no distortion
Better: no achromat with no aberration but with distortion
Good : with ordinary macro, with aberation but no distortion

I'll probably get the 10HD macro soon.

[dr jones]

It's more of a choice between; with achromat or no achromat....
and if you would put an achromat, it should be the best achromat or nothing at all.

so i think that we could categorize these configurations from good to best (depending on your preference).

For me, I prefer my videos free from color aberration. So I consider these:

Best : with quality achromat with no aberration & no distortion
Better: no achromat with no aberration but with distortion
Good : with ordinary macro, with aberation but no distortion

I'll probably get the 10HD macro soon.

i agree. how much is the 10hd macro and where can i get it?


i have the century optics +7 achromat for $200.00 and it is high quality glass with minimum distortion and aberation.

have you actually tried your adapter WITHOUT an achromat/macro? do you get lot's of vignetting without the achromat? and how come you are able to use it without an achromat, but daniel says you must have at least a +9 for it to work? i'm a little confused here... :hv20-smilie51:

[vibrations]

have you actually tried your adapter WITHOUT an achromat/macro? do you get lot's of vignetting without the achromat?

see page 4 of the thread - photos (from Daniel) there

[twoneil]

page 4 of this thread is a good example.......but I would also like to see footage or photos of things, places (not just grids) so we could compare them on their practicality and value.

I've been using my adapter w/o an achromat due to the two factors.
1. Tube size
2. $$$

the 10HDmacro becomes pretty expensive when combined with shipping crossing the border.

However, the following equation applies to most of you:
(β + μ) < Ω

β = tube size, μ = $$$, Ω = image quality

My purpose now is to eliminate the necessity of μ to achieve Ω.

[dr jones]

where can i find the 10HDmacro and how much does it cost?

[twoneil]

Argh, I just got all my items, I received the camera yesterday, the first few adapter bits arrived last week and the last one, the lens & Daniel's stuff, arrived today. NOW.. I need the tutorial! :D

Guess I'll see how well I'll do on my own...

While the website is still down, I stumble upon the tutorial on youtube.
(don't know if it was put up by someone other than Daniel) anyway, here it is:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YXFbEqKdYKI&mode=related&search=

[86evolution]

I'm pretty sure you guys have seen this macro on ebay. It's a 55mm macro +10.
http://cgi.ebay.com/55mm-MACRO-10-CLOSE-UP-LENS-FILTER-NEW-55-mm-Closeup_W0QQitemZ300147517473QQihZ020QQcategoryZ30 045QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

[twoneil]

I'm pretty sure you guys have seen this macro on ebay. It's a 55mm macro +10.
http://cgi.ebay.com/55mm-MACRO-10-CLOSE-UP-LENS-FILTER-NEW-55-mm-Closeup_W0QQitemZ300147517473QQihZ020QQcategoryZ30 045QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

It's an ok macro, but I'm pretty sure you'll get color aberrations since there's only a single element rather than the Opteka HD macro, which has 4 elements.

[ForwardLooker]

It's an ok macro, but I'm pretty sure you'll get color aberrations since there's only a single element rather than the Opteka HD macro, which has 4 elements.

Yes I agree, before i bought the opteka hd macro i tried a cheap +10 macro which I already owned which had 1 glass element and the quality to put it bluntly was CRAP!

[dr jones]

there is no way i will use a $50.00 HD achromat on my adapter. i have a $200 +7 century optics achromat and i'm gonna use that. it is an extremely high quality piece of glass and was tested on the DIY adapters over at dvxuser. the results were almost flawless.

[twoneil]

As you have noticed, color aberration is a very hostile issue to me. So I want it completely out of my picture.

I compared a short tube vs a long tube. I discovered that when the camera is far from the focusing screen, there is less vignetting & aberration. It seems that it's in perfect alignment with the Fresnel of the focusing screen. All light is directed to the camcorder's lens. Hence, longer tubes are better.

Eventually you will need an achromat. Without it, you won't be able to frame the entire screen & focus properly.

[ForwardLooker]

I also think 2 tubes is a better configuration.

[dr jones]

As you have noticed, color aberration is a very hostile issue to me. So I want it completely out of my picture.

I compared a short tube vs a long tube. I discovered that when the camera is far from the focusing screen, there is less vignetting & aberration. It seems that it's in perfect alignment with the Fresnel of the focusing screen. All light is directed to the camcorder's lens. Hence, longer tubes are better.

Eventually you will need an achromat. Without it, you won't be able to frame the entire screen & focus properly.



so what are you going to do now? use two extension tubes + achromat, or 1 extension tube + achromat, or 2 extension tubes + no achromat?

[twoneil]

so what are you going to do now? use two extension tubes + achromat, or 1 extension tube + achromat, or 2 extension tubes + no achromat?

possible:
2 extension tubes + achromat,
or 1 extension tube + achromat
or 1 extension tube + no achromat

impossible:
2 extension tubes + no achromat

[daniel schaumberger]

Hi guys,

if you want the best image quality (without distortion and very good edge to edge sharpness) you have to use 2 extension tubes + achromat like twoneil & ForwardLooker said. I made a bunch of tests and that was the best solution I found.

In the first compact version of my HV20 tut I used only 1 extenstion tube and that surplushed achromat. It was already a good picture quality but with the 2 extension tube setup and my new carl zeiss achromat its much better.
The problem was that the surplushed achromats had errors in them that reduced the image quality. I had to order many of them to pick out the ones without errors. You can still try it maybe you have more luck. Of course you can also use the Opteka +10 achromat and 2 tubes (Anyhow I dont own one so I cant compare it with my other achromats).

I got a response from my new internet provider - the homepage will be back online this week.

best regards
Daniel

[tkmslee]

there is no way i will use a $50.00 HD achromat on my adapter. i have a $200 +7 century optics achromat and i'm gonna use that. it is an extremely high quality piece of glass and was tested on the DIY adapters over at dvxuser. the results were almost flawless.

I would really like to see which achromat you used and some examples showing the difference in quality. If I could get one for $200 that gave me a better picture that would be great. Currently I am using one of the Opteka HD achromats ($50) and I personally see no aberrations or distortions.

[daniel schaumberger]

Hi tkmslee,

I will put some examples on my homepage when its back online.
The achromat I used in the compact version was this one:
http://www.surplusshed.com/pages/item/l4673.html

But their used and can have some errors!

[dr jones]

I would really like to see which achromat you used and some examples showing the difference in quality. If I could get one for $200 that gave me a better picture that would be great. Currently I am using one of the Opteka HD achromats ($50) and I personally see no aberrations or distortions.

http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthread.php?t=45972

here is the thread which shows examples of the +7 century optics achromat. keep in mind, that thread is for static adapters... not vibrating adapters. i forgot which pages of the thread they show the +7 on, but i'm pretty sure it's in the latter half of the thread somewhere. you'll just have to search around.

according to that thread, the +7 is the best choice around for achromats and all the cheaper achromats fail in comparison (barrel distortion, chromatic distortion, etc). and since the century optics (CO) is not a +9, you will need a 2" spacer to extend the adapter a little bit.

i recommend not buying it until someone here can confirm it works with daniel's setup. (or you could take your chances and if it doesn't work, you can always exchange it for a refund)

as soon as daniel's website is up i will be buying the adapter parts and i'll post footage with the +7 CO for you guys.

you can buy it here http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/77546-REG/Century_Precision_Optics_AD5870_AD_5870_7_0_Achrom atic_Diopter.html

[marketmd]

This website is dead.

[Jerry Lee]

Open My HV20 :hv20-smilie03:

Move to :

http://www.hv20.com/showthread.php?p=18937#post18937

[wolferic]

jerry -

you are a brave man. But this thread is getting REALLY long and I don't think these photos belong here: maybe on the 'info/photos' thread or the 'paint your camera thread'

do you think you might be able to give some detail (and a BIG warning) about how you did this? I would be interrested and I'm sure some other brave souls may as well - if only so we aren't tempted to do it ourselves!

Lastly, if you scroll up a bit, there has been a lot of information about Daniel's website, including updates from the man himself.

looking forward to seeing more info on a new thread… :hv20-smilie77:

[twoneil]

Open My HV20 :hv20-smilie03:

Thank you so much for doing this!!!!
I've opened every electronic device in the house; laptop, printer, synthesizer, receiver, washing machine.....you name it! and every single one of them have suffered some serious damage out of curiosity...except I've never opened the HV20 (yet).
Was it easy to put it back together?

[Jerry Lee]

Thank you so much for doing this!!!!
I've opened every electronic device in the house; laptop, printer, synthesizer, receiver, washing machine.....you name it! and every single one of them have suffered some serious damage out of curiosity...except I've never opened the HV20 (yet).
Was it easy to put it back together?

Yes , Is Very easy to open & Very easy to put it back together.

[twoneil]

For all of you die hard fans of the DIY35mmPro adapter, here is a comparison of short - long tube without achromat.

Test goal:
-To know the optimal distance from the HV20 lens to the Focusing Screen.

Method:
-Set distance 4cm, 1cm, 3cm
-zoom in before it blurs

Results:
-4cm has black borders, minimal distortion.
-1cm has no borders but has massive vignetting and distortion
-3cm has small borders, some distortion but less vignette & distortion than above.

Analysis:
-4cm is crap as well as 1cm. 3cm is acceptable since the borders will be clipped on TV.

Conclusion:
-Get an achromat or use 2.5cm distance w/o an achromat.


Video ->Click here (http://www.mediafire.com/?1gnngbzue94)

[twoneil]

I promised myself to quit testing and film something meaningful.
So here is my last TEST of the HV20 + DIY35mmPro, static.

http://www.mediafire.com/?91g1mvyz1ds

My focusing screen is very dirty that's why there are dusts on the footage, I will be purchasing a new one soon.

[duketh]

your last test twoneil.

what distance did you use? what is your preferred choice?
2.5cm or achromat(size of achro and distance)?
that test is really good btw

[dr jones]

I promised myself to quit testing and film something meaningful.
So here is my last TEST of the HV20 + DIY35mmPro, static.

http://www.mediafire.com/?91g1mvyz1ds

i can't believe i'm gonna say this but that was the most impressive adapter footage i've ever seen. you have no idea how refreshing it is to see someone with an adapter who actually knows how to take full advantage of it.


so is your DIY35mmpro the adapter you made from daniel's site? tell us EVERYTHING :hv20-smilie03:

[twoneil]

I promised myself to quit testing and film something meaningful.
So here is my last TEST of the HV20 + DIY35mmPro, static.

http://www.mediafire.com/?91g1mvyz1ds

I just called it the DIY35mm cause Daniel labeled it as such in one of his posts (http://www.hv20.com/showpost.php?p=8597&postcount=80).
I just added the Pro because it's superior to any other DIYs (or even not DIY). Suggested names were: Crevis, RNG35 (Run'nGun35) (http://www.leetj.com/rng35/index.html), Crevate, iDOF35.

I don't have an achromat, so I have the distance set to 3cm because that's the best I could get with the combination of rings. I think 2.5 would be better.

Believe it or not, the Test video was actually cropped and downscaled to 1280x720. About 5% of the edges are clipped, so imagine what you will get with a full 1920x1080 footage. I'm trying to get to 2.5cm so that I could get the full view of the Focusing Screen and get a true 1080p.

So I wasn't kidding when I posted (http://www.hv20.com/showpost.php?p=16089&postcount=314) that this adapter could be done with $77.77 and get great results.
(lucky 7s)

@beta75
I use a 50mm f1.8 Canon FD,
Canon Ee-s Focusing screen

I've intentionally placed a dust on the top edge of the screen to validate that it is in fact a static adapter.

[Norbert]

Nice video, twoneil. Which screen did you use? I like how it renders the bokeh.

[beta75]

twoneil:

Hi, great result.
Do you use Eos lenses?
If so, what distance do U have from the eos lens to the GroundGlass?

/KN

[twoneil]

I greatly enjoyed assembling this adapter. I'm making a simple Static 35mm adapters without an achromat.


I'm actually building one for someone; if anyone needs one, follow this thread:

UPDATE Oct 11, 2007
Follow the thread 'FS: DIY35mmPro DOF adapter' (http://www.hv20.com/showthread.php?t=2825)

[tlowing]

I'm interested. Just send me the details.



I greatly enjoyed assembling this adapter. I'm actually building one for someone; if anyone needs one PM me. I'd like to save on shipping by ordering in bulk.

[dr jones]

i'm interested also, PM me details.


by the way, do you have any intention to make it vibrating?

[jdog35]

I'm going to sound like an idiot I know, but what exactly does this adapter allow you to do?

[dr jones]

I'm going to sound like an idiot I know, but what exactly does this adapter allow you to do?

let's you achieve shallow depth of field.

[DanDOF]

let's you achieve shallow depth of field.

Which makes your video look like flim (selecting what is IN-focus and what is OUT-OF-focus).

[jdog35]

Gotcha. So not something I would need for long-distance(ish) filming of football games from high up in the stadium. Thanks guys! I appreciate not having to put on the flame suit:)

[dr jones]

Gotcha. So not something I would need for long-distance(ish) filming of football games from high up in the stadium. Thanks guys! I appreciate not having to put on the flame suit:)
yeah, you're definately not going to need it for that. you're gonna want to get the entire length of the field in focus which means a 35mm adapter is exactly the opposite of what you want :)

[tlowing]

He couldn't use the 35MM adapter to attach something like a 300mm zoom lens?


yeah, you're definately not going to need it for that. you're gonna want to get the entire length of the field in focus which means a 35mm adapter is exactly the opposite of what you want :)

[twoneil]

He couldn't use the 35MM adapter to attach something like a 300mm zoom lens?

You don't need to go beyond the 100mm zoom.
The adapter is best between 20mm to 80mm. (50mm, for example)
The 35mm adapter would not be necessary since you could already achieve the same
Shallow Depth of field with just the camera itself.

Also, in sports, it is usually filmed with a deep DOF, meaning everything stays sharp. (depending on the look you want)

Lens that have an F-stop 2.8 or lower should be used with the 35mm adapter, the lower, the better.
Lens that have f-stop lower than 1.8 is certainly not cheap.

[BananaChipz]

Right...

With a shallow DOF, you are going to have a very difficult time keeping football players in focus.

I do a lot of sports still photography. Even with my superfast canon USM lenses, and the 8.5 frames per second from my 1D Mark2 N - it's difficult to keep fast movement in focus sometimes.

This was with my 20d.. at f4.0 at 400mm (70-200mm L IS + a 2x teleconverter). The only reason it looks *somewhat* ok is the heavy post processing I had to do.

http://matthewr.smugmug.com/gallery/249385#9817844-L-LB

[Norbert]

Okay, I'm going with 2 tubes + achromat now. What size and focal lenght for the achromat would be best?

[dr jones]

Okay, I'm going with 2 tubes + achromat now. What size and focal lenght for the achromat would be best?

whoa, that's gonna be a long adapter.


twoneil made a really good one with 1 tube + no achromat. you can see footage of it on the previous page

[Norbert]

Indeed, I saw that but I believe it can get even better and I don't want to have to crop the image. It seems that Daniel has tried 2 tubes + achromat and it gave him better results:


if you want the best image quality (without distortion and very good edge to edge sharpness) you have to use 2 extension tubes + achromat like twoneil & ForwardLooker said. I made a bunch of tests and that was the best solution I found.

In the first compact version of my HV20 tut I used only 1 extenstion tube and that surplushed achromat. It was already a good picture quality but with the 2 extension tube setup and my new carl zeiss achromat its much better.

[twoneil]

Daniel's site is back! Wohoo!!!

[dr jones]

looks good, twoneil. where did you purchase the bayonet mounts?

[twoneil]

looks good, twoneil. where did you purchase the bayonet mounts?

I purchased 2 extra EOS extension tubes, so the mount comes from one of them.

[dr jones]

i just tried my century optics +7 achromat on the adapter and i can confirm that it does NOT work well... the vignetting is out of control. daniel is right, you need at least a +9.

so, looks like i'll be buying the opteka +10HD.

[Norbert]

Has anyone else tried the Opteka on this adapter before?

twoneil: Why does it say "ivis HV20" on your HV20? Also, I can't make out what your BLC button says but it surely doesn't say "BLC". :P

[dr jones]

Has anyone else tried the Opteka on this adapter before?



i'd also like to know this before i take the plunge :)

[twoneil]

Has anyone else tried the Opteka on this adapter before?

twoneil: Why does it say "ivis HV20" on your HV20? Also, I can't make out what your BLC button says but it surely doesn't say "BLC". :P

I've ordered the Opteka 10x HD and I'm gonna try it out.
@Norbert: I chose the 52mm.

About the camera; it's a Japanese model, though I don't know what's 'ivis'.

[Norbert]

Good news! Which diameter did you get?

[dr jones]

where did you find the 52mm? i've only seen the 58mm version here http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B000GBCYF2/ref=ord_cart_shr/103-4545238-6300623?%5Fencoding=UTF8&m=A1P9QRDRYY6FXL&v=glance

[daniel schaumberger]

Hi guys,

finally my homepage jesetmodels is back online again.
All tutorials should work fine now.

best regards
Daniel

[twoneil]

where did you find the 52mm? i've only seen the 58mm version here http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B000GBCYF2/ref=ord_cart_shr/103-4545238-6300623?%5Fencoding=UTF8&m=A1P9QRDRYY6FXL&v=glance

I got it on ebay, there's also one with a 55mm thread which you could get directly from Opteka.

[tlowing]

Sweet looking rig Neil. I see you use a Canon lens instead of a Nikon.

[motionpoet]

Twoneil, or anyone

I just got in all the part from Daniels site and i'm putting it all together
I also got the I wiz, not to sound to dumb but has anyone set up the rail support to the tripod for the 35dof yet... if so please show some pics...
I'm needing to see how it all goes together...

Thanks

[Fletch78]

Just a warning: after having assembled the adapter, treating the gg holder like a raw egg, I tested the vibration. At some point while testing, two of the fine carbon pins broke. I'm trying to fix them now with some "JB Weld"-ish glue and can only hope I will succeed without affecting proper vibration.

So in conclusion, I just wanted to say: be careful, even after assembling, when everything seems to be fine. The pins can still brake inside easily. Don't push the pancake motor to its limits either. I guess too strong (or wrong) vibrations broke mine.

[twoneil]

Just a warning: after having assembled the adapter, treating the gg holder like a raw egg, I tested the vibration. At some point while testing, two of the fine carbon pins broke. I'm trying to fix them now with some "JB Weld"-ish glue and can only hope I will succeed without affecting proper vibration.

So in conclusion, I just wanted to say: be careful, even after assembling, when everything seems to be fine. The pins can still brake inside easily. Don't push the pancake motor to its limits either. I guess too strong (or wrong) vibrations broke mine.

I feel your pain.....Hope it will be back to normal again.

And also another piece of advice from me..
If you're satisfied with your adapter...keep it as it is.
Don't try to tweak it any further.
That's what happened to my vibrating adapter....I tweaked it until I couldn't tweak it anymore.

Oh well, Live and learn. What I got from the experience is, that I can do another vibrating adapter with certainty and quality.

[tkmslee]

I've ordered the Opteka 10x HD and I'm gonna try it out.
@Norbert: I chose the 52mm.

About the camera; it's a Japanese model, though I don't know what's 'ivis'.

I am making several adapters for customers and I took a chance with the Opteka 10x HD 72mm macros. They work just as well as the other 58mm version I purchased! In fact, not only does it come with a 10x piece of glass, it also has a 4+ 2+ and 1+ in case you need more magnification.

It seems to perform well with very minimal aberration and distortion (in fact none that I have noticed).

[86evolution]

has anyone seen Daniel's new Achromat piece? It's looks damn sexy man. Rgghhh.... I'm still waiting for his reply. Daniel where are you man? You are killing me out here.

[daniel schaumberger]

Hi 86evolution,
Im here I was just very busy with my other jobs.
Ive sent you an email regarding that achromat.

best regards
Daniel

[86evolution]

Way cool dude

[twoneil]

I got the Opteka 52mm Macro; the lens is beautiful, a well manufactured product.

[tkmslee]

twoneil,

How is that macro working out for you?

Since I have been using mine, I swear that I can see no aberrations (ya know the blue outline you sometimes see? Watch closely the outline on the dude's shirt against the background in the ice cream cone scene here (http://www.redrockmicro.com/footage/HVX200/karcher_stringer.mov) in this footage off the Redrock site). Up to this point, I have seen no weirdness in my footage.

[twoneil]

twoneil,

How is that macro working out for you?

Since I have been using mine, I swear that I can see no aberrations (ya know the blue outline you sometimes see? Watch closely the outline on the dude's shirt against the background in the ice cream cone scene here (http://www.redrockmicro.com/footage/HVX200/karcher_stringer.mov) in this footage off the Redrock site). Up to this point, I have seen no weirdness in my footage.


Really great!, It actually reduced the aberrations.
I'm to the point where I can see the HDV artifacts and can no longer get a quality beyond the limits of the HV20.

Sweet!!
I'm getting another Opteka 52mm for my adapter.

[Dmitry Yun]

Hey can you see Mars with that thing this time of year? ;), just a question twoneil. in your experience are the static GG adapters performing just as well as the vibrating ones. And is the Nikon D gg better than the canon for the static. I just remember back in the day I saw the first footage from the Guerilla35 I was stoked and always wanted to try and make one me self, especially that they are never going to be made anymore. :(

BTW just a recent FYI type thing. I connected my newly acquired Brevis35 to my HV20, and although it wasn't meant for it I tried it anyway with the CF1L gg, but the difference is verrry noticeable. For some reason my DOF is not half as defined as it was when I made the DOF35, I used the same 50mm F1.8 Canon lens and DOF seemed to be a lot less shallow.

[tkmslee]

Really great!, It actually reduced the aberrations.
I'm to the point where I can see the HDV artifacts and can no longer get a quality beyond the limits of the HV20.

Sweet!!
I'm getting another Opteka 52mm for my adapter.

I was going to say the same thing, but I didn't want to sound nuts. I too feel like the focused image is just as clear as it would be without an adapter. In fact, whenever I have the adapter off and I use auto focus, I realize I can do a better job with the focus using my adapter.

[tkmslee]

Hey can you see Mars with that thing this time of year? ;), just a question twoneil. in your experience are the static GG adapters performing just as well as the vibrating ones. And is the Nikon D gg better than the canon for the static. I just remember back in the day I saw the first footage from the Guerilla35 I was stoked and always wanted to try and make one me self, especially that they are never going to be made anymore. :(

BTW just a recent FYI type thing. I connected my newly acquired Brevis35 to my HV20, and although it wasn't meant for it I tried it anyway with the CF1L gg, but the difference is verrry noticeable. For some reason my DOF is not half as defined as it was when I made the DOF35, I used the same 50mm F1.8 Canon lens and DOF seemed to be a lot less shallow.

I wonder if that is because the Brevis lets in too much light. I have no idea really, but in a Redrock vs Brevis side by side (http://www.richard-darge.com/m2brevis.htm), the Redrock seemed to produce a better Bokeh. With these DIY adapters I assume the light that is getting in is less than the amount the Brevis would let in.

Just a thought.

[Dmitry Yun]

My RedRock did not see anything in the same room that the Brevis and the DOF35 had no problems with, and the circular Bokeh just wasn't cutting it for me. It's no disrespect to RedRock it's a great adapter for the pro's who love lighting things, but I'm the run and gun type so I don't like the light constraints. Oops I'm going off on a tangent.

The light loss on the DIY adapter was really comparable to the Brevis maybe .25 stops difference. But not much to notice. It's weird; what could be causing that, I should submit a ticket to Cinevate and whine that my DOF isn't shallow enough :( hehe

[twoneil]

.....just a question twoneil. in your experience are the static GG adapters performing just as well as the vibrating ones......

I have yet to decide if a vibrating adapter is better than static because for once, my focusing screen is not virgin (I ran hot water, q-tips, alcohol, cotton balls on it)LOL amazing, it still survived!
EDIT: Please read my other posts before you imitate me.

I'm making one for a fellow canuck and we'll see.

I think you will notice a difference between Vib or a static when you look at the blurred areas. The vib produces smoother and gradient colors. With my static (abused gg), I can see rough areas that should be plain (water stains, scratch).

But the only hassle I have with a vibrating adapter is the need to solder the wires to the motor, the wiring & battery compartment hassle.

We'll see what a virgin focusing screen can do on a static adapter.

[dr jones]

awesome to hear the opteka HD is working so great.

twoneil, could you send me a link to the exact opteka 52mm you got? because i think there are a couple different versions (one made with 4 elements and one made with 1 element) and i want to make sure i get the right one.

[twoneil]

awesome to hear the opteka HD is working so great.

twoneil, could you send me a link to the exact opteka 52mm you got? because i think there are a couple different versions (one made with 4 elements and one made with 1 element) and i want to make sure i get the right one.

This is the Opteka macro HD fits exactly the 55mm thread. Link (http://cgi.ebay.com/55mm-10x-HD-Macro-Lens-for-Sony-Alpha-A100-A100K-DSLR_W0QQitemZ190154345867QQihZ009QQcategoryZ30070 QQcmdZViewItem)

Or you could get the 52mm which fits inside the EOS tubes. (you have to put some rubber bands or clay to fill up the space)

Get the 4 elements. I think you'll get aberration with the single element.

Search also in amazon, or ebay to get cheaper ones.

[Norbert]

Cool, how do you guys think the Opteka compares to Daniel's Zeiss achromat? It would be interesting to see some images using both. :)

[vibrations]

just finished putting together a little vh57x/L4673 achromat adapter
working fine - only 8cm long without lens!
very discreet

[twoneil]

just finished putting together a little vh57x/L4673 achromat adapter
working fine - only 8cm long without lens!
very discreet

Looking for some vibrating footage from you, vibrations.
Did you get that achromat from Daniel?

I'm trying to shorten my adapter with the Opteka. I've already subtracted an inch but I'm still experimenting so that I could shorten it further.

[vibrations]

Did you get that achromat from Daniel?

no, from surplusshed - i wrapped it in sticky double sided foam tape until it fit snugly inside the 3 55mm spacer rings at the end

this adapter goes -> super-takumar 55mm 1:1.8 lens->m42 to eos adapter->eos tube bayonet ring->eos tube segment 3->eos tube segment 1->eos tube segment 2->55mm hoya uv filter (no glass and epoxied into the end of the eos 2 tube)->55mm b+w rotating polarising filter (no glass)->55-43mm step up adapter->hv20

the achromat seems to do the job pretty well - i had no problems focusing the hv20 on the ee-a screen, and no sign of vignetting or colour shift on the frame edges
still have to capture some footage to see what's really going on though : )
very happy so far - the hv20 and adapter pack down to about the size of a large sandwich

[RockyRoad2929]

You selling? I'm just too busy to make one...and it seems like a lot of HV20 users are making some decent DIY adaptors.

Any takers?

Seems riducious to spent about $1200 for one while others here a building them for way cheaper...Kudos to all for building them.

I wish I was so talented.

Thx.

[dr jones]

You selling? I'm just too busy to make one...and it seems like a lot of HV20 users are making some decent DIY adaptors.

Any takers?

Seems riducious to spent about $1200 for one while others here a building them for way cheaper...Kudos to all for building them.

I wish I was so talented.

Thx.

yea, i'm selling and i can build you one! it'll be $1,200. PM me for paypal info :)



seriously though... you don't have to be talented to make a 35mm adapter. it's no harder than building legos. all the necessary parts are explained in this thread... all you have to do is buy them and screw them together. easy as pie.

[Norbert]

Indeed, the only "talent" involved here is when people are trying to improve their adapter beyond the limits of the tutorials, and that talent is called patience... and wealth.

[Ian Lim]

Hi Neil, I've sent you pmail:)

[RockyRoad2929]

Dr. Jones,

Okay...I'll try it...but I don't think its that easy...if that was the case why then is Brevis and RedRock, and many others selling it for a pretty penny.
Sure, I believe they all are making some nice dough selling those but really...if it only costs about $77 listed as one of the prices here at this post.

Maybe someone can break it down even more like for a Nikon mount. Also, it seems the hardest part from others stated is mounting the motorized vibrator to the gg holder. Is that correct?

I read one post stating "if you have lots of time and patience, you can do it...but it’s not that easy as everyone likes to believe"

Okay...Dr. Jones & Norbert...I try it...but hope you know...I'll be asking ton of questions on the post so I hope you can help and guide me the correct way. I would greatly appreciate your insight and others here at this forum.

Thanks to all and take care.

[twoneil]

.....just a question twoneil. in your experience are the static GG adapters performing just as well as the vibrating ones.....

The static adapter is surprisingly great with lens that has a maximum f1.4 or f1.8
I don't see the grains even in low light.

However, if I use a lens higher than f2.8 on a static adapter, I see grains/smudges all around, even on blazing sunlight. Whereas a vibrating adapter does not.

The vibrating adapter hides the grains, which mean you're not limited to lenses that have f-stops less than 2.

[Fletch78]

Also, it seems the hardest part from others stated is mounting the motorized vibrator to the gg holder. Is that correct?

If you order Daniel's gg holder 'kit' with the already fixed focal length for Canon EOS lenses (and basically for all lenses you can get a simple mount converter for, like Nikon) the small motor is already built in. I've found the fine cables on it damn short, though. That's why I decided to glue two connectors on them. It worked well...before I broke the pins. After several attempts I managed to glue them back on (they kept braking) and I hope it's fixed now. Oh, and because of removing and putting the focusing screen back on I broke this one as well...I guess when something starts to go wrong, things just keep getting worse. The broken pins were my mistake, though. After assembling it wanted to tighten the extension rings, forgetting that turning the ring screwed on the lens mount ring AFTER the cables of the motor have been fixed is a BIG no-no. So be warned (I hope I was and will be the only stupid one to do this...)!

[Norbert]

If you wanted to, you could've soldered the cables together inside the adapter... right?

[Fletch78]

If you wanted to, you could've soldered the cables together inside the adapter... right?

What exactly do you mean? You have to get the cables out of the extension ring after all. That's why you have to drill a hole into that ring. What you could do is solder them to the cable of the battery box and lead the cable through the hole afterwards. You can do that only if the cable is small enough (the recommended phone cable wouldn't work, especially because it's winded) or the hole large enough.

[vibrations]

i packed the wiring hole with epoxy (with the motor wires already through), let it dry, and then soldered the battery leads on. More epoxy on top of the soldered leads and it's pretty secure!

i didn't use the coiled phone cable because it was too bulky...

[Norbert]

I mean like this:
http://stagvall.mine.nu/solder/cable1.jpg
http://stagvall.mine.nu/solder/cable2.jpg

[Fletch78]

Norbert, this comes from a different tutorial with a gg holder that must be glued inside an extension ring. If you follow Daniel's appropriate tutorial for the HV20 adapter step by step, there's simply no room to access the cables that easily anymore. On the bottom you'll have the UV filter and on top there's the gg holder with those fragile carbon pins.

[86evolution]

While waiting for Daniel's parts, I got impatient and started playing with the focus screen. Saw some spot on it and decided to clean it out with alcohol like twoneil did and wiped with some fine cloth and Qtips. Guess what? I made it worse and it kept on getting worse. Now there's a hair pin size scratch and what look to be like a the matted side was scratched off a bit.

I got a 55mm uv filter and so I decided to glue the focus screen on it and kinda made myself a pre-adapter (static) all I need is just the step up ring now. I didn't notice the scratches on the focusing screen at all when zooming in, just a little specs of dirt. I'll make some more test today just to play with what I got for now.

Hot glueing wasn't the best thing for me. Any ideas on how to get rid of the dirt and hair like thing?

[Fletch78]

I made it worse and it kept on getting worse. Now there's a hair pin size scratch and what look to be like a the matted side was scratched off a bit.

Same here, just that I didn't use alcohol. I tried to blow some dust of with a compressed air spraycan. Unfortunately some of the gas was still liquid and stained the glass (or the matted layer) permanently. Trying to remove the stains just made things worse (scrathes, etc.).


Any ideas on how to get rid of the dirt and hair like thing?
In conclusion to my bad experiences with compressed air from a spraycan, I'll only use a manual dust bellow with a new focussing screen (and the other optical parts of the adapter) from now on. I highly recommend buying one and staying away from those compressed air spraycans. As mentioned before, sometimes some of the gaz sprays around still in liquid form.

[RockyRoad2929]

As I read here...I seem to be right...its not that easy...but that's not going to stop me now.

I'm gearing up...everyone keep up the good work.

[twoneil]

While waiting for Daniel's parts, I got impatient and started playing with the focus screen. Saw some spot on it and decided to clean it out with alcohol like twoneil did and wiped with some fine cloth and Qtips. Guess what? I made it worse and it kept on getting worse. Now there's a hair pin size scratch and what look to be like a the matted side was scratched off a bit.

OMG, you did what!?? Ahhhh! (yeah, I did it too)
Anyway, thanks for confirming this 86evolution, the information is priceless.

That's why I'm making another adapter in a dust free environment, and the last thing I will assemble is the focusing screen (I'm actually cleaning my whole house and filtering dust starting now) and use my old focusing screen for testing only.

To those who just ordered their parts, heed my warning: the focusing screen should stay VIRGIN!!!
(virgin from dusts that is.....)

[86evolution]

lol, sorry man. im getting anew virgin this weekend ihope

[dr jones]

you must use special cloth that is designed specifically for photography optics or for glasses. i don't know what kinda cloth you guys are using to make scratches (get rid of it NOW!) but you need to get the right kind of cloth which is made of a certain material.

also, you must blow the dust off the glass before you clean it with the cloth because even the microscopic dust can scratch the glass.

[twoneil]

I may add that the fresnel side is really hard to clean because the dusts particles get stuck in between the ridges.

[86evolution]

While awaiting for my vibrating pieces I managed to make myself a static adapter using just the Canon xtension tubes, 55mm uv filter and a damaged focusing screen. I got some screen shot of my test footage, and it looks pretty awsome.

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b315/86evolution/vlcsnap-131869small.jpg

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b315/86evolution/vlcsnap-132274small.jpg

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b315/86evolution/vlcsnap-132450small.jpg

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b315/86evolution/vlcsnap-133399small.jpg

[86evolution]

So will the Vibrating adapter gets rid of all the scratches and miscelaniouse spots? That way I won't have to buy a new FS. Still tempting to by one tho.

[dr jones]

the vibrating gets rid of the grain. and the grain is most noticeable in the blurred areas.

the vibrating might remove the super tiny scratches but it won't remove the big ones. if you have scratches on your GG then you should really just get a new one. if your GG is not virgin then it's going to show in all of your footage no matter what.

[Flyingsheep]

Hey guys, sorry to jump in but I have some questions that regard building my own 35mm adapter for the HV20. I read the tutorials on Daniel's site and I understand how I can make one if I ordered the parts he recommends, but I have three Minolta MD lenses (a 28mm, 50mm, and 135mm) that I would like to use. I don't want to have to spend more money to get the lenses than it would cost to build the adapter itself. The problem is that all of his tutorials are based on the idea of using Canon EOS extension tubes. I would need to get a Minolta extension tube (I already found one on ebay for a good price), but I'm not sure how that can work with Daniel's tutorials. Can anyone help me here? Thanks.

[twoneil]

Hey guys, sorry to jump in but I have some questions that regard building my own 35mm adapter for the HV20. I read the tutorials on Daniel's site and I understand how I can make one if I ordered the parts he recommends, but I have three Minolta MD lenses (a 28mm, 50mm, and 135mm) that I would like to use. I don't want to have to spend more money to get the lenses than it would cost to build the adapter itself. The problem is that all of his tutorials are based on the idea of using Canon EOS extension tubes. I would need to get a Minolta extension tube (I already found one on ebay for a good price), but I'm not sure how that can work with Daniel's tutorials. Can anyone help me here? Thanks.

Flyingsheep,

You can put many different lens on an EOS extension tube with the addition of an adapter mount (http://www.camerahacker.com/Novoflex/EOSNIK.shtml).
However, the Minolta MD has a shorter focal flange (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flange_focal_distance) than the EF lenses so you can't use an adapter mount. Thus, the red cannot be used while the green can be used with the appropriate adapter.


Canon FD = 42mm
Minolta MD = 43.50mm
EF lens = 44mm
Minolta AF = 44.50 mm
Pentax K = 45.46 mm
Nikkon F = 46.5 mm
Leica R = 47mm

But there is a solution to that. I used Canon FD on my adapter with no problem. Now, please flip to page 7 (http://www.hv20.com/showthread.php?t=489&page=7) of this thread and you will find some of my posts and others to get plenty of useful information about this concept.

Summary:
Requires modification of the focal flange distance.

Plan A:
1. Buy Minolta extension tube.
2. Wait for it to arrive, then measure diameter.
3. Email Daniel about the tube diameter to make custom GG holder.
4. Assemble adapter with a focal flange ~43.5 (around 43.5).

Plan B:
1. Buy one 50mm Nikkon lens.
2. Buy Nikkon to EOS adapter.
3. Follow Daniel's tutorial as is.

Advice:
Don't buy your parts until you're absolutely sure.

[marlenedegrood]

Want to safely get rid of that dust off of your screen? Get one of these
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/97690-REG/General_Brand_NPHBB_Hurricane_Blower.html

I've made several static adapters for my DVX100b and friends....and I really understand dust.....the Hurricane Blower works!

Marlene

[Flyingsheep]

Thanks for the help so far. I'm trying to make sure I know exactly what I'm doing and what I'm going to get before I make my own 35mm adapter. I get part of the focal flange concept, but I'm still a little fuzzy on other parts. Is the measurement the distance between the absolute front edge of the GG-holder and the absolute end of the front of the extension tube? Is that all I need to worry about as far as the focal flange goes?

Here's the Minolta extension tube I found:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Extension-Tube-Set-for-Minolta-MD-Mount-Cameras-A76_W0QQitemZ160133229190QQihZ006QQcategoryZ30059Q QrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem

Also, the 50mm MD lens I have is f/2.0 and some people have mentioned that anything smaller than 1.8 wouldn't be worth it. Would it be a problem? If not, I'm thinking I'll go with the Minolta extension tube and stick with MD so that I don't have to spend any more money than I already would on an adapter. I do have an old Nikon 50mm lens sitting around (my friend gave it to me years ago) but I have misplaced it recently, and I'm not sure about the f-stop.

I've always liked the idea of DIY projects but never tackled any... so this would be my first. I'm very careful at what I do so I don't think it should be too hard.

[daniel schaumberger]

Hi Flyingsheep,

you can also use your Minolta MD extension tubes but first measure your inner diameter of the tube:.
See the below picture:

http://www.jetsetmodels.info/pics/ring3_inner.jpg

Normally the Minolta MD tubes should be compatible with my VH-55 vibrating gg-holder but Im not 100% sure because the chinese manufacturers changed again their tolerances. Just measure your tubes and let me know.

You can then follow the HV20 tutorial but you have to use then the VH-55 instead of the VH-57X.

best regards
Daniel

[Ian Lim]

Neil, I've just pmail you again, please check :hv20-smilie24:

[Norbert]

Okay, my static gg-holder and 55-60mm stepring should arrive in the near future. All I need now is an achromat and possibly a UV filter for dust sealing. So, of course I have a few questions.

1. Achromat:
I am thinking of getting an Opteka HD macro. Is there anyone else here from europe that has ordered a macro from their web site? In that case how did that work out? Did you have to pay tax + duties + import taxes?
Does the 52mm macro fit perfectly into the Canon tubes without any modifications?
Has anyone tried the 55mm macro and just screwed it onto the 55-60mm step ring?
Are the lens elements the same size in all those Opteka macros although the thread size is different?

2. UV-filter:
I have searched through the thread and the tutorials but I can't seem to find any info on which specific UV-filter to get. I know a 55mm filter will supposably fit into the Canon tubes, but which brand works the best? Hoya? Hama? Soligor? If the different brands have different filter ring thickness that should be fairly important.

[Halsu]

What exactly do you mean? You have to get the cables out of the extension ring after all.

I didn't.

I put an RCA female connector to the hole in the tube and soldered the motor to that. Battery / rheostat / switch are connected to the adapter with a male RCA - this makes maintenance easier, and of course it's also much more neat ;-)

[Flyingsheep]

Thanks Daniel, I think I'll do that. Is it possible to start with making a vibrating adapter without an achromat or macro lens and add one later if I decide to?

[suta]

Looking for some vibrating footage from you, vibrations.
Did you get that achromat from Daniel?

I'm trying to shorten my adapter with the Opteka. I've already subtracted an inch but I'm still experimenting so that I could shorten it further.

hey Twoneil,

any experience with Opteka HD2 macro (4 elements) ? :)

[twoneil]

hey Twoneil,

any experience with Opteka HD2 macro (4 elements) ? :)

I've posted a footage with the Opteka macro on the
'Really good 35mm FOOTAGE COLLECTION (http://www.hv20.com/showthread.php?t=2621)'
You'll also see other's videos with the DIY35mm adapter. Static & vibrating adapter.

[suta]

ohh thanks !

[Norbert]

twoneil: What brand UV filter do you use for dust sealing? I have searched this thread and the tutorials but I can't find anything on that.

[dr jones]

good news. i am FINALLY finished with my adapter. as you can see, it's not vibrating yet. from what i've seen from twoneil's static footage, i think i'll be fine without the vibration for a while. when i get more money and more patience, i'll upgrade it.

it's been a long time comin', and i don't know HOW many times i've revised it during the building process. but alas i've finally settled on a final build.

it is a hybrid between daniel's adapter and another DIY adapter from dvxuser. i've used a thorlabs tube in place of the canon EOS extension tube. to be honest, i find the EOS extension tube ugly, bulky, and very DIY-looking. i wanted to go with the more professional, sleek look. now all i need is my rails and i'm set to go.

i will post footage soon :)

http://i24.tinypic.com/2zftnc2.jpg

http://i22.tinypic.com/izrjua.jpg

http://i22.tinypic.com/2cpyz9e.jpg

[twoneil]

twoneil: What brand UV filter do you use for dust sealing? I have searched this thread and the tutorials but I can't find anything on that.

55mm, got them from ebay. Don't know what brand (no name brand)
Some UV filters barely fit the tubes and some loosely fit. It's really just luck getting the right one.


good news. i am FINALLY finished with my adapter. as you can see, it's not vibrating yet. from what i've seen from twoneil's static footage, i think i'll be fine without the vibration for a while. when i get more money and more patience, i'll upgrade it.

it's been a long time comin', and i don't know HOW many times i've revised it during the building process. but alas i've finally settled on a final build.

it is a hybrid between daniel's adapter and another DIY adapter from dvxuser. i've used a thorlabs tube in place of the canon EOS extension tube. to be honest, i find the EOS extension tube ugly, bulky, and very DIY-looking. i wanted to go with the more professional, sleek look. now all i need is my rails and i'm set to go.

i will post footage soon :)

I'm excited! can't wait.. BTW, where did you get the thorlabs tube???

[dr jones]

I'm excited! can't wait.. BTW, where did you get the thorlabs tube???

http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthread.php?t=50393&highlight=Thorlabs


there ya go :)

[benjamincanfly]

Wow, I can't believe I finally made it to the last page of this awesome thread. I feel like I've been reading a book or watching a movie. Very dramatic and interesting. I've registered so I can join in.

I won't be able to start on my adapter until some time next month, but wanted to get something straight - the way most of you are building yours, is the image flipped? Or does that last ring, the one closest to the camera, allow you to rotate so that the image is upright?

If the image *is* flipped, then are most of you building rigs so you can mount the camera upside-down, etc?

Finally, I think I'm going to make the adapter myself and enjoy the rewards of my own hard work, but wanted to check first whether anyone here is currently building adapters to sell (other than Daniel - sorry, too pricey for me). If so please give me a PM.

Thanks everyone for sharing your experiences! If and when I start my own I'll be sure to post.

[dr jones]

Wow, I can't believe I finally made it to the last page of this awesome thread. I feel like I've been reading a book or watching a movie. Very dramatic and interesting. I've registered so I can join in.

I won't be able to start on my adapter until some time next month, but wanted to get something straight - the way most of you are building yours, is the image flipped? Or does that last ring, the one closest to the camera, allow you to rotate so that the image is upright?

If the image *is* flipped, then are most of you building rigs so you can mount the camera upside-down, etc?
Finally, I think I'm going to make the adapter myself and enjoy the rewards of my own hard work, but wanted to check first whether anyone here is currently building adapters to sell (other than Daniel - sorry, too pricey for me). If so please give me a PM.

Thanks everyone for sharing your experiences! If and when I start my own I'll be sure to post.


hi ben

the flipping ring you are referring to is a circular polarizer (with the glass taken out) it is used to align the ground glass (focusing screen) to the camera lens. it does not re-flip the image though.

there are a couple different ways to "re-flip" the image:

1. building a rig to mount the camera upside-down

2. using an external monitor (can be pricey and cumbersome to carry around) but has many advantages

3. cinevate (company who makes the brevis35) just came out with a flip-module made specifically for this. you can buy them separately from the brevis and attach them to any adapter including DIY adapters. their is a slight downside to this because it adds some additional light loss.

4. and then my favorite method (haven't actually tried it yet tho.. gonna try it later today) the hv20 hack. you can actually flip the image inside the camera, both horizontally and vertically, and avoid all the other hassle. here's how http://www.cinevate.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=518


hope that helps :)

[twoneil]

What are your experiences about the circular polarizer?
Does it have a lock to keep it from turning?

[dr jones]

no, i don't think it has a locking mechanism. i have ordered one from ebay and i'm going to try it out. i hope it doesn't turn easily, otherwise the whole adapter will turn everytime i try to pull focus. when i get it in i'll let you know how it goes



p.s. i have successfully performed the flip hack. took me about 20-30 minutes. wasn't too hard, but wasn't too easy either. right now i only have the vertical flipped (that's enough for me) i don't wanna mess with the horizontal because quite honestly i don't want to risk anymore.

[twoneil]

p.s. i have successfully performed the flip hack. took me about 20-30 minutes. wasn't too hard, but wasn't too easy either. right now i only have the vertical flipped (that's enough for me) i don't wanna mess with the horizontal because quite honestly i don't want to risk anymore.

That's good,, don't risk it anymore...I destroyed the vertical flip switch when I tried to switch the horizontal too... and because I didn't made it permanent, I just taped it.....bad idea.

[Flyingsheep]

Can anyone answer my previous post? It'd be nice. Thanks. :)


Is it possible to start with making a vibrating adapter without an achromat or macro lens and add one later if I decide to?

[dr jones]

Can anyone answer my previous post? It'd be nice. Thanks. :)

yea, you can. the macro/achromat is mainly used to get rid of vignetting. it allows you to get the image closer to the focusing screen.

[Flyingsheep]

Okay, cool. I'm going to try starting out with a basic vibrating 35mm adapter and I'll work on modifying it with an achromat later on if I really want to. But I'm thinking it'll be fine and I won't need it. Vignetting doesn't bother me as long as it isn't too much. I actually like the look of it.

I'm going to go with a Minolta extension tube, send the inner diameter measurement to Daniel, and get a custom vibrating GG-holder from him (that is IF the diameter != 55.3mm). I'm going to have to wait a month from now though since he's on break...

http://www.jetsetmodels.info/news.htm

but that's fine. I'm going to leave for Germany on the 16th and I won't be back until early November. When I come back I'll work on the adapter.

Thanks guys for the help, and good luck to everyone else.

[dr jones]

sounds good, let us know how it goes alone the way. can't wait to see some footage

[Spencer Stewart]

Hello,

Thanks everyone for posting their work and suggestions. I just finished reading the whole thread, and its taken hours :hv20-smilie01:

Throughout all of it though, I couldn't find a precise amount of light lost through the adapter. Can anyone estimate the amount in f-stops?

Thank you very much, the videos on this thread look awesome, and I look forward to building one of these in the near future. Thanks again to Daniel, and his free tutorials. From what I've read, you've been the light in the darkness to a number of us.

With much appreciation,

Spencer Stewart

[zcream]

That sucks - then buying any Nikon tubes is a crapshoot. We don't even know what size it is..

I can confirm that the nikon extension tube with an inner diameter of 54.4mm dos not have a 55mm thread!

[marlenedegrood]

That sucks - then buying any Nikon tubes is a crapshoot. We don't even know what size it is..

I bought my Nikon tubes from here
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=120163103353&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT&ih=002

The inner thread size was 55mm so all I had to do was get a 55>58 step up ring and then a 58>58 macro coupler (aka....reverse ring) to attach to the Opteka +10 58mm that I bought from 47th st. photo (through amazon.com) then of course a 43>58 step up ring on the HV20 lens.

Marlene

[twoneil]

I bought my Nikon tubes from here
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=120163103353&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT&ih=002

The inner thread size was 55mm so all I had to do was get a 55>58 step up ring and then a 58>58 macro coupler (aka....reverse ring) to attach to the Opteka +10 58mm that I bought from 47th st. photo (through amazon.com) then of course a 43>58 step up ring on the HV20 lens.

Marlene

58mm thread of the Nikon tubes is even more common than the 60mm thread of the EOS extension tube. I'm pretty sure Daniel would be willing to make a custom gg holder for the Nikon tubes. And for that you won't need a Nikon-Eos adapter.
(but you can't use any other lens other than Nikon [that sucks])

There is also a 55mm Opteka +10 (http://cgi.ebay.com/55mm-10x-HD-Macro-Lens-for-Sony-Alpha-A100-A100K-DSLR_W0QQitemZ190159007861QQihZ009QQcategoryZ30070 QQcmdZViewItem) direct from the manufacturer. You might want to check it out.

[24Peter]

Where are you guys (and gals :hv20-smilie84:) seeing threads on the extension tubes? They all look like the typical SLR lens mount. :hv20-smilie50:

[marlenedegrood]

Where are you guys (and gals :hv20-smilie84:) seeing threads on the extension tubes? They all look like the typical SLR lens mount. :hv20-smilie50:

You unscrew the ring with the lens flange mount.

Marlene

[Norbert]

Is it just me or do the tubes have threads on the inside?

[Worley]

You have threads on your insides? Wow. What does that feel like? <crude>Makes for a great screw, I'll bet!</crude>

No, no threads on the inside. The tubes are finely ribbed.

So, I guess it's just you with the internal threads.

[chimneybrothers]

after a long break, school started again so i had no time to mess with my addapter. i tried to put it together. everything seemed to work fine... except my focusing screen was too close to my camera lens. simple solution is to get another extention tube to get the right distance. or is there i different distance (other than daniels tutorial) when using just one tube. probably a simple problem but figured id ask so i dont kill my product. thanks

[twoneil]

after a long break, school started again so i had no time to mess with my addapter. i tried to put it together. everything seemed to work fine... except my focusing screen was too close to my camera lens. simple solution is to get another extention tube to get the right distance. or is there i different distance (other than daniels tutorial) when using just one tube. probably a simple problem but figured id ask so i dont kill my product. thanks

it's about 1cm-3cm. Without achromat, you can't focus on it anymore greater than 3cm and get the entire view of the focusing screen.



About how much light do your adapters cut out (in f-stops)?
Thanks

No idea; but you could check this comparison between an HV20 with an adapter and an HV20 without it.

HV20 only vs HV20 + 35mm adapter
click here (http://www.hv20.com/showpost.php?p=21177&postcount=25)