I'm making the switch. Advice?

[The Crowing]

I currently own an HV30, Raynox wide angle with XH hood and a Rode Videomic. I am going to sell that rig and get the T2i.

How much should I start the bidding at for my rig as well as my Cinetactics LCD hood and Canon camera bag? I would hope I could get $700 for it but with the DSLR craze i'm not sure.

Advice?

[Gillvane]

http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_trkparms=65%253A12%257C66%253A2%257C39%253 A1%257C72%253A2910&_nkw=hv30&_sticky=1&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_sop=16&_sc=1

[movielighter]

$700.00 sounds like a pretty good price.

I just saw a HV30 go for $480.00, the lens has about a $100.00 value used and the same with the Rhode Mic. Throw in the back and lens hood and someone has a starter kit.

A lot of people still want the feel of a camcorder with HD results, the HV series still holds its own.

I have also taken the plunge to the T2i, the main reason is I was just going to a memory card based system to save time during transfers and I had been looking at 35mm adaptors for the HV series in the past.


Good luck!

[The Crowing]

Thanks guys! I hope this is a good decision. I am going to be so sad to see my rig go. But goodness, the quality of the T2i

[Janke]

Do you have to sell the HV? (Maybe can't afford the T2i otherwise?)

It would be a pity - the T2i doesn't replace the HV. Even thought the T2i is an amazing piece of hardware, many things are so much simpler to do with the HV. Also, the T2i has auto audio levels only, so you can't control your sound as well as with the HV...

[The Crowing]

At this point in my life I would need to sell the HV to bring in the T2i.

I have planned on getting a H4n for the longest time, so this would just be one more reason to get moving with that.

I hate to leave the HV brotherhood, but I have had enough experience with it that I will stay close with the community on the forums and all. I am going to miss my rig :(

[chico_stang]

Why is there so many people replacing their HV cams with these DSLRs? Not saying anything bad about them, since I know they shoot incredible video in the right hands, but they have more limitations than a video camera from what I've read.

[The Crowing]

The limitations that they have are not a big deal at all. Certainly not a big enough deal to regret the switch from what I have read.

[DigitalBard]

Why is there so many people replacing their HV cams with these DSLRs? Not saying anything bad about them, since I know they shoot incredible video in the right hands, but they have more limitations than a video camera from what I've read.

The only major limitation is the 12-minute limit and that only matters if you actually do ever shoot more than 12-minutes at a time.

Thankfully, I was able to keep my HF11 but mostly for family stuff (recitals, plays, etc...). I did use it some when I was in Detroit, but over all very little.

[Rich]

Why is there so many people replacing their HV cams with these DSLRs? Not saying anything bad about them, since I know they shoot incredible video in the right hands, but they have more limitations than a video camera from what I've read.

I never owned an HV20/30 etc, I used a friends HV20 a few times, I am still in the Standard Definition world, my last video camera purchase was a Panasonic GS500. My first videography attempts was film in 1968.

I will most likely buy the Canon T2i. I take more still photos than video. I don't want to carry a lot of equipment, it is just a hobby for me.

My latest video, shot today, edited today, 88 seconds, just for fun, shot with a Canon SX10 Point & Shoot... My wife and I had fun...

YouTube- Sandstorm_3Mbs.wmv

Been looking at your Vimeo site. I like your work, I can appreciate the time you spent.


Good luck.



Rich

[chico_stang]

Thank you Rich.

Well like I said, I am not against these videocapable DSLRs. Personally, I prefer a proper video camera for proper video work. A few days ago I shot and interview which lasted well over an hour. I couldn't have done that with a DSLR. Maybe for my type of work I just can't see me using other than a video camera.

[The Crowing]

UPDATE!

I sold my rig yesterday for $700!

Hopefully the T2i will come back into stock soon. If not I will order the 550D from overseas.

Thanks for the advice fellas!

[Mr. Kubrick]

The only advice you'll need for now is to save lot of money for good lenses. almost all great looking footage around the net on HDdslr's is done with great quality lenses. And great lenses = Lot of $$MONEY$$

I'm searching around and the best bang for the buck lenses are sigma, tamron and only few canon that doesn't belong to the famous L Series. Some say that Samyang lenses are great , they almost inexpensive if you consider a $300 lenses a cheap one.

I have few Old nikon series E lenses that are good with an adapter, but they're aren't that great in my IMO.

Other than that i hope you have and excellent journey through the HD DSLr world!!

[krewcial]

The only advice you'll need for now is to save lot of money for good lenses. almost all great looking footage around the net on HDdslr's is done with great quality lenses. And great lenses = Lot of $$MONEY$$


This simply is NOT true.

All M42 lenses can be attached to a T2i, you can find a 50mm 1.8 for $50 or even less with some luck.

A set of 3 good lenses (one wide, one standard, one tele) shouldn't cost you more than $400.

I shot some footage for a music video today with a MamiyaSekor 50mm 1.4 and a Vivitar 35mm 2.8. I'll post some stills later this week, but it'll show you that those lenses do a great job !

[Bif]

The only advice you'll need for now is to save lot of money for good lenses. almost all great looking footage around the net on HDdslr's is done with great quality lenses. And great lenses = Lot of $$MONEY$$


Actually he can do pretty good video with the "kit" lens that comes with the camera. The 18-55mm zoom range provides a very useful wide angle to moderate tele focal range that will likely cover 90% of what most folks need for video.

I've shot video with that "kit" lens, with a couple of "primes" and with a 17-40mm "L" series I own and while there can be some difference "great" video will depend more on the vision, lighting, and skills of the video team than on anything else.

The best advice he can follow now is twofold: Take the camera and go out and learn and master it, and get some kind of LCD viewfinder loupe so he can SEE what he is doing.

The Hoodman 3.0, while not the everyone's favorite, may be a good starting place (it can be held on with a 12" rubber band).

[DigitalBard]

I am curious... How do you start/stop recording with the loupe on? Especially when you're using a shoulder rig.

I know the button is not covered by the loupe, but it seems kinda awkward to reach up to press it while having the loupe pressed to your eye.

[Dr. Benway]

This remote is meant to be compatible: http://www.abt.com/product/45725/Canon-RC6.html

http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=canon+remote+t2i+550d&_sacat=0&_trksid=m270&_odkw=rc6+remote&_osacat=0&bkBtn=

You could mount it anywhere...

[Janke]

Speaking of M42 lenses - beware of the Hama M42 to Canon adapter - it's a lemon!

It lacks the stop pin that prevents the adapter from rotating more than 120 degrees, and it may jam in place - personal experience; I returned it. Since no other M42s were available here, I had to go to my lathe and turn one up by modifying a T-adapter...

[krewcial]

Speaking of M42 lenses - beware of the Hama M42 to Canon adapter - it's a lemon!

It lacks the stop pin that prevents the adapter from rotating more than 120 degrees, and it may jam in place - personal experience; I returned it. Since no other M42s were available here, I had to go to my lathe and turn one up by modifying a T-adapter...

I bought 2 on ebay. $7.50 including shipping, they work perfect.

[Janke]

I bought 2 on ebay. $7.50 including shipping, they work perfect.

HAMA brand M42 adapters? Do they have a little (1/16" or so) chrome pin that stops them from rotating beyond their intended position, both when attaching and removing?

If yours have, then mine was indeed a lemon. Furthermore, the store charged $80 for it - but I got a refund...

If yours hasn't got the pin, be careful so you don't rotate them too far, or they might jam.

Please inform me if you can find that little pin on your adapters, thanks!

[The Crowing]

Looks like I have a lot to learn about lenses. I feel like I am new to the forum once again. I spent a ton of time learning everything I could about Hvs and now I have to start over. Should be fun! Thanks for all the replies! I heard the Kit lens was real bad. I did also hear that you can get a 1:8 for cheap. Other than that I need a crash course on what lenses are good for video.

[Bif]

I heard the Kit lens was real bad.


You heard wrong. You heard from people who don't know what they are talking about, too.

The "kit" lens is just not up to the build quality and optical standards of Canon's better lens lines. It comes from their economy line but still is not a bad lens. I've had 3 Digital Rebels that came with that lens design.

It provides a useful range from 28mm wide angle equivalent (comparing angle of view with full frame) to about 80mm portrait perspective equivalent all in an incredibly compact lightweight package.



I did also hear that you can get a 1:8 for cheap.


Correct. Average price seems to be about $100. It's a 50mm which means it may be a bit long (80mm equivalent) but if you can back off a bit it is a sharp lens with good inherent contrast (except wide open but this is true of almost all lenses).



Other than that I need a crash course on what lenses are good for video.

Master the camera with "kit" lens first, pay attention to what parts of it's zoom range you use most in both video and stills. That is your "crash" course on what lenses are good for video. As far as low light goes, the much improved high ISO performance of the T2i will help you out a lot there.

Good luck

[Bif]

I am curious... How do you start/stop recording with the loupe on? Especially when you're using a shoulder rig.


Reach up and press the button. If you're worrying about a little bit of "jostle" and unsteadiness while letting go of the right hand grip on the shoulder rig to press the button, yes it does happen.

But I allow myself a bit of "pre-roll" and also let it continue recording for a few seconds after the "take" ends to give me some leeway for smooth edits. So there is time for everything to settle down before I call, "Action".

I edit and trim every "take".



I know the button is not covered by the loupe, but it seems kinda awkward to reach up to press it while having the loupe pressed to your eye.

With a bit of practice it actually gets kind of smooth and is not awkward at all. But Dr. Benway has a neat solution in his reply to your post. I think I'll try his idea of using a remote.

[The Crowing]

I got my T2i yesterday! If anyone is looking to get one and can't find it anywhere in stock. Check your local Costco. They had plenty.

I agree with you, Bif. The kit lens is not terrible at all, namely for a person like me, so new to the DSLR world. It will do for now, just to get me started on learning the operations of the camera.

Having something like this with full manual control and such is very different from my HV. Its a little overwhelming. But then, I know it has amazing still picture capabilities and I am not one to only learn about one portion of my equipment. I must learn this camera inside and out.

Next would be a lens or two, battery grip and some other things to make the rig look awesome.

[Janke]

If you need a wide angle, I can recommend the Tamron 10-24, considering its low(ish) price. It's not tack sharp fully open, but it's w-i-d-e !

Good comparisons of lenses at www.dpreview.com

[The Crowing]

Thanks for the recommendation Janke! The link is great as well. Keep this kinda info coming. Its things like this that make me realize that a new camera doesn't mean a new forum.

[Bif]

I agree with you, Bif. The kit lens is not terrible at all, namely for a person like me, so new to the DSLR world. It will do for now, just to get me started on learning the operations of the camera.


I kind of miss it, the last one I had got sold with the T1i. The 17-40 I got for the 7D is a "beast" by comparison.



Next would be a lens or two, battery grip and some other things to make the rig look awesome.

I wouldn't be concerned about making the rig look "awesome". Go more for function. If you look at my avatar the 7D is shown on a SpiderBrace with the 24mm EF prime and the CAVISION LCD viewfinder loupe.

It gets more attention than I want sometimes so I have learned to handhold the whole setup removed from the SpiderBrace.

The EF 24mm f2.8 was chosen for general video work because that focal length works out to a 38.4mm equivalent full frame, just a tad longer than the 35mm wide angle photojournalists used to consider a "wide normal" alterntative to the 50mm ("shifty fifty") that used to come with most 35mm cameras.

I did a lot of work with that 35mm focal length and so am quite comfortable with the 24mm on a 1.6 crop factor camera. In addition, I found that with the EF 50mm f1.8 lens, much of the time at night I was stopping down to f2.8 to keep light sources from "blooming" too much.

So while I still keep the 50mm f1.8 handy in case it's needed (that's the $100 lens that's been mentioned) the EF 24mm lets me work in "close and tight", does low light quite well, and is a good general purpose lens.

Battery grip: May not be necessary unless you have largish hands. But it may get seriously in the way of some mounting setups. I'd put that off a bit.

EXTREMELY NECESSARY: Some kind of viewfinder loupe. You MUST be able to totally block extraneous light from the LCD when using it as a viewfinder and to evaluate exposure. You are essentially working blind without it and you even need it when evaluating stills outdoors.

The Hoodman 3.0 is the least costly. It has a diopter adjustment but NO MAGNIFICATION! I have one and still use it and it can be mounted on the camera with a 12" rubber band. it gets tossed in the bag just to have with me. At the other end is the Zacuto (3 power magnification) at almost half the price of your camera. Right in the middle is the CAVISION (6X magnification but no diopter adjustment). Mine cost about $240 ordered from Canada but without mounting hardware can be just over a tad more than the Hoodman. With a rubber frame adapter you can use it just like the Hoodman product.

Shoulder Brace: The SpiderBrace 2 Combo (www.spiderbrace.com) I use cost about $100 delivered to my door. There is a half priced version from a competitor called EasyBrace (www.easybrace.com).

So forget "awesome" look. Spend your $$$ carefully for pure function.

[The Crowing]

Probably one of the best and most informative posts I have seen. Thank you so much Bif. I am going to look into the lens you use. And also the viewfinder. Would it be too much to ask to have you post some footage you have shot with your lens?

[Janke]

I posted a few sample pics, including one taken with the Tamron 10-24 mm, and with my old 90 mm f:2,5 in this thread:

http://www.hv20.com/showthread.php?p=309388#post309388

[The Crowing]

Ok gentlemen. I have used my T2i with the kit lens long enough. Time to upgrade. My limit is $400. Hit me. General video work. Sharp, great dof, all that good stuff. Help a brotha out. I have read about the ones you mentioned already and I am considering them. Gimme more!!

[Janke]

If you want "great" dof then the widest possible. I have a Tamron 10-24, and it's good and wide, but the Tokina 12-24, not quite as wide, outperforms it.

See the comparison test chart shots in the reviews at dpreview.com: "The Tokina AT-X Pro SD 12-24mm F4 (IF) DX is a lens that could easily be overlooked by buyers considering a wideangle zoom, simply because of its more limited angle of view compared to most similar lenses on the market. But perhaps because of its more modest aspirations, it comprehensively outperforms the other third party APS-C wideangle zooms we've tested recently, i.e. the Sigma 10-20mm F4-5.6 EX DC HSM and the Tamron 10-24mm F3.5-4.5 Di-II. "

If you want "minimal" dof, go for a fast, longish lens (small f-stop number, as in f 1.4, longish, as in 50 to 100 mm)... There are many.

[Bif]

Ok gentlemen. I have used my T2i with the kit lens long enough. Time to upgrade. My limit is $400. Hit me. General video work. Sharp, great dof, all that good stuff.

Here is a "challenge entry" shot entirely with the EF 24mm f2.8 I described a few posts back. Subject was to produce a "trailer".

Our "concept" was a takeoff on the "Highlander" series theme, Rick played a Spaniard who has been around for "a long time". We may actually take what we have and finish out a 7-10 minute short in the near future.

None of the scenes called for selective focus - shallow DOF but that would have been possible with the ND filters I now have (.6 and .9 for 2 and 3 stops reduction, stacked give me 5 stops reduction). We were kind of "stuck" with outdoor afternoon daylight for most of it. I had had the 7D for exactly one week and that was the first trial with it.

Most scenes were done at f5.6 and f8 except for the interiors (f2.8) and the final scene.

All of it was done with the SpiderBrace except for the motorcycle scene which was done handheld with me leaning out the window of a pickup.

Color banding on one "office" scene resulted from cheap CFLs in the room lamps.

TIME Matters on Vimeo

Shallow DOF with this lens works well in close up with f2.8 but I've only "seen" it through the lens so far.

[redfalcon]

Ok gentlemen. I have used my T2i with the kit lens long enough. Time to upgrade. My limit is $400. Hit me. General video work. Sharp, great dof, all that good stuff. Help a brotha out. I have read about the ones you mentioned already and I am considering them. Gimme more!!

If you want a prime, the 24mm Bif mentioned or the 28mm 1.8 would do you well. I love my 28!

That Tamrom 10-24 could be really good too and give you a bit more flexibility, but it might be hard to find for $400.

[Janke]

The Tamron is but slightly over your budget, $470 at B&H.

IMHO, it's worth it. (The Tokina 12-24 is about the same, $500, but I needed the widest possible - and for HD video, the difference in sharpness doesn't matter that much...)

[Koui]

The Hoodman 3.0 is the least costly. It has a diopter adjustment but NO MAGNIFICATION!
No longer true Bif. Here's Hoodman's HoodMAG 3x eyecup for the HoodLoupe 3.0:

http://www.hoodmanusa.com/prodinfo.asp?number=HMAG3.0

I'm using one and it does make a difference. Whether it's worth $40 or not is debatable.

[Bif]

Looks good to me. I believe I will order one of those.

Just looked at their demo video and it looks worth the extra $40 as far as I am concerned.

[Dave Pierpont]

Hi all new to this forum as well as the HDSLR video world. But I am a graduating college student and pursing a career in creative video production, after long debate on what I wanted i chose the new T2i over the new panasonic and canon camcorders. The image quality that this camera puts out is worth the work around on form factor to make it more like a camcorder.

Bif, I have seen a lot of your posts and they are very insightful. Right now all I have is the kit lens and a bunch of SDHC cards.
A shoulder mount is a must and it looks like you recommend the spiderbrace, does it work quite well? Also, in terms of a viewfinder the hoodman for 80 dollars ? are there any ones similar to that for cheaper and will they fit on the T2i? Is magnification key? I have good eyes at the moment being 21...Also, what are you guys' takes on buying the cheap T2i batteries off of EBAY for like 15 bucks instead of the 60 dollars on BH.

Sorry for the massive post, but I am preparing to go on a around the world trip, FRANCE then JAPAN this summer and want to bring my T2i with me... I prob will not bring a shoulder mount,, but maybe a DIY monopod as scene on cheesycams website. I will be diong a lot handheld shooting some action sports and landscapes on my trip...any recommendations or tips or other must haves? I am trying to get quality for the cheapest prices around because I still have to pay off my loanssssss

[The Crowing]

Looks like the Hoodman is the cheapest right now. Until someone ( like me ) does a lil DIY.

[Janke]

Until someone ( like me ) does a lil DIY.

I'm gonna... even got a lens from a repro camera that might do well as a magnifier.

In the meantime, I've been adapting a Sennheiser shotgun to attach to the hotshoe - but, but, for some reason the T2i has a strong hiss when an external mic is attached. (This mic sounds great on the HV30... but there's another problem; I need to build a rubber suspension for it, cam noises carry through the hotshoe mount!)

Will keep you informed.

[kaydawgy]

I too am gonna make the plunge and switch from the HV30 to the T2i. Test footage on Vimeo is just breathtaking and is a must!! It's a real pain dragging my 40D AND my HV30 when I go to cool events. I never shoot for long periods of time so the 12 minute limitation is no problem. Plus, I have several lenses that already which will make it even more of a treat. I'm gonna post my HV30 on ebay back in it's original box with everything that it came with. I'll even include the firewire cable, 6 mini DV tapes, a camcorder bag, mini SD card, and tripod all for $600. If anybody is interested than PM me.

[Janke]

Have you guys thought about what to use for audio when you switch from a HV to the T2i?

I've noted that when using an external mic (Sennheiser and AKG condensers), there is a lot more hiss with the T2i than with the HV30 - this probably has to do with the AGC and mic impedance.

You may have to re-think your audio if you let go of your HV camera...

[Shigeta]

YouTube- Canon 7D/T2i AGC Bypass Trick

[Janke]

Awful audio on that clip - a lot of background hiss (appears he tried to cover it with muted background music), and what sounded like heavy noise gate processing...

No, I don't believe in that, at all.

[The Crowing]

I can't view the video with sound at work. Is there really a firmware hack for the AGC? or is that video a hoax?

[rhervag]

for audio, a zoom h4n is nice to have

[Shigeta]

I can't view the video with sound at work. Is there really a firmware hack for the AGC? or is that video a hoax?

It's not in the firmware, did you watch it?

[The Crowing]

I did but I feel like I missed the point. Cause I dont have speakers at my work.

[Janke]

The Magic Lantern firmware is for the 5D, not the T2i...

see: YouTube- Introduction to Magic Lantern

[Shigeta]

I did but I feel like I missed the point. Cause I dont have speakers at my work.

Lol, speakers help sometimes :hv20-smilie84:

Basically, if you have a stereo mic, and one side is loud, it will crank the AGC on the other channel down. He put a high pitch tone on his iPod and got a splitter, put the ipod on one side to crank down the AGC, while he recorded voice with the other microphone. In theory, if you delete the channel with the tone, it will eliminate AGC, but, as Janke said, it didn't turn out that way.