DIY Samsung HD Monitor thread

[wolferic]

Just thought it was time to start a new thread since there seems to be interest and talk about building this on a few other threads.

Since I'm at it, has anyone looked into using a bigger monitor screen? Like this: http://www.izzotek.com/documents/Manuel%20Kit%2015,4%20pouces%20Samsung%20HDMI

Pros? Cons?

Also, I've been thinking about making a case from plexiglass/acryl. Anyone tried working with this around electronics? Any problems with static electricity?

Hope this thread starts growing quickly... (XFR, any news?)

[ESTEBEVERDE]

Nice!

Do you know the US price for this kit?

[africanmarty]

Nice!

Do you know the US price for this kit?

i payed 295 for the kit and 50 for express shipping to australia, witch arrived today :)

i'm going to try and fabricate a cheap plywood shell and if it works use the same measurements to complete a aluminium shell. will post pics tomorrow of the kit. i cant wait..... i'm off to a 21st birthday :hv20-smilie70: so talk to you guys tomorrow

[ESTEBEVERDE]

Cheers! :hv20-smilie70:

[africanmarty]

When the kit came, I put it together to see if it worked [plugged all the wires in and pluged in the hv20 (wich was set to playback mode) via component cable].

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/11/30823521546.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=7026810)

...and it did :)

Now i'm trying to build a case around it.... (any1 have experiance in this field drop me a line as i'm not really sure what i'm doing)

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/11/30823521561.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=7026811)

Wich will take some time...

- Marty.

[ESTEBEVERDE]

Hey Marty~

This is the place you got it from?

http://stores.mivamerchant.com/express/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=manhattanlcd&Product_Code=106-MST9E19A&Category_Code=

Also, before you spend time making a case make sure you like the picture and this is the screen for you.

If it is, tell us about its pros and cons.

[tcindie]

I think I would probably build the case out of some acrylic. It can be drilled and screwed together like wood, and/or it can be be glued. Clear acrylic painted on the inside surfaces would look very attractive and you wouldn't have to worry about scratching off the paint.

[africanmarty]

Hey Marty~

This is the place you got it from?

http://stores.mivamerchant.com/express/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=manhattanlcd&Product_Code=106-MST9E19A&Category_Code=

Also, before you spend time making a case make sure you like the picture and this is the screen for you.

If it is, tell us about its pros and cons.

yes thats where i got it :) it was well packed, and arrived in 3 days :) highly recommend them (although its the only thing i have baught from them). i'm definitly keeping it, from playback the picture is great nice and bright ( havent used it outside, but i imagine it will need a hood ) and sharp so nothing but pros so far, only downside is it requires 12v power ( no batt ) so i purchased a portable 12V batt pak and problem solved !

- Marty.

[africanmarty]

I think I would probably build the case out of some acrylic. It can be drilled and screwed together like wood, and/or it can be be glued. Clear acrylic painted on the inside surfaces would look very attractive and you wouldn't have to worry about scratching off the paint.


sounds promising, though i'm working on plans wich is what i need mostly once i have the plans worked out then i can decide between plexiglass,clear acrylic, wood ect...

how would you peice it together ???

- Marty.

[piano_jochen]

Hi africanmarty,

sounds really exciting to me, because I wanna build myself that monitor, too! But since I'm completely unaware of electric stuff, I don't know which battery would work with the display kit... can you give me some hints which battery you chose and why?

Best wishes from Germany!
Jochen

[tcindie]

how would you peice it together ???

- Marty.
Cut the sides so the front and back cover the thickness of the sides top and bottom, then add a thicker section at the corners to screw into for reinforcement. You could even take a router to the edges to round the corners a bit. I think I would glue the front and all the sides together and then just screw the back on, or the other way around, glue the back and all the sides together and just screw on the front. That way you'd be able to take it apart if necessary.

[XFR]

I received mine late afternoon. Tested it with HDMI and the image looks perfect (doh)! The 12V battery-packs work too :)
Right now I'm cutting the aluminum but it'll take some time to make it all fit, also I need to make another trip to the hardware store :)

[RockyRoad2929]

Where did you buy the power pack? I see only a 12v power unit, no pack.

Nice job...Can't wait to see others...

Cheers...

[wolferic]

Glad to see that this thread is taking off: congratulations to Marty and XFR, and keep those photos coming.

But no one has answered my first two questions:

1. Is there any reason (besides size/cost) that no one is opting for the full 15,4" HD screen?

2. Are there any dangers when using plexiglass or acrylic around sensitive electronic parts? I have worked with plexi before and find that it attracts an unnatural amount of static electricity.

Keep those replies coming!

[africanmarty]

Where did you buy the power pack? I see only a 12v power unit, no pack.

Nice job...Can't wait to see others...

Cheers...

Hi africanmarty,

sounds really exciting to me, because I wanna build myself that monitor, too! But since I'm completely unaware of electric stuff, I don't know which battery would work with the display kit... can you give me some hints which battery you chose and why?

Best wishes from Germany!
Jochen

the kit requries a 12volt power supply and since this will be a feild monitor i found a cheap portable 12v rechargable battery on ebay that i'm using that will be put on the back of the kit ( once complete ).

[africanmarty]

Glad to see that this thread is taking off: congratulations to Marty and XFR, and keep those photos coming.

But no one has answered my first two questions:

1. Is there any reason (besides size/cost) that no one is opting for the full 15,4" HD screen?

2. Are there any dangers when using plexiglass or acrylic around sensitive electronic parts? I have worked with plexi before and find that it attracts an unnatural amount of static electricity.

Keep those replies coming!


i would have loved to have to 1080p 15,4 but its simply to big for me i needed a more practicle montitor and this was the smallest HD monitor (720p) i could find. i havent used plexiglass or acrylic so i cant comment but i too heard they attract an unnatural amount of static electricity.

[tcindie]

I'm not sure on the amount of static they attract. I know people have used acrylic and/or plexiglass to build enclosures for their homebuilt projectors (lots of info on that at lumenlab (http://www.lumenlab.com) -- they've come a long way since I was active in their forums about 2 years ago).

[wolferic]

I'm not sure on the amount of static they attract. I know people have used acrylic and/or plexiglass to build enclosures for their homebuilt projectors (lots of info on that at lumenlab (http://www.lumenlab.com) -- they've come a long way since I was active in their forums about 2 years ago).

Coolio. I'll check them out, they do seem to have these things down from what I've seen.

[Bruce Allen]

Hey guys...

A friend pointed me towards this thread - that looks VERY similar to the LCD / controller setup I'm using for my monitors...

Maybe my case design will work?

Anyway, good luck to everyone doing this!

Oh, and if you guys can somehow get 20 people committed to a group buy, let's talk about a daylight readable mod...

Forgot to mention I am SLAMMED with work at the moment so probably will be totally uncommunicative for the rest of the month ;)

Go, good HV20 people, go!

Bruce Allen
www.boacinema.com

[africanmarty]

Maybe my case design will work?
www.boacinema.com

could you share it with us please, as yours look great, we'd all appriciate it.

- Marty.

[XFR]

could you share it with us please, as yours look great, we'd all appriciate it.

- Marty.
http://www.boacinema.com/projects/lcd_monitor/update1.htm :)

[XFR]

My case is already taking shape :)
I used 0.5mm sheet aluminum, it's basically a sort of lunch box and I'll be putting 4 bolts in the corners just like africanmarty.
The total weight will be 700 grams, which is pretty sweet :)

(no pics yet)

[africanmarty]

http://www.boacinema.com/projects/lcd_monitor/update1.htm :)

i meant design plans and measurements.

[XFR]

I've worked on it today for some time, and the main unit is practically finished :)
Still need to put the button-panel in, but I can't do that until I buy some real buttons.

Here are a few pics of the outside:

http://home.quicknet.nl/qn/prive/schaft/xf/xfr-samsung2.jpg

http://home.quicknet.nl/qn/prive/schaft/xf/xfr-samsung3.jpg

http://home.quicknet.nl/qn/prive/schaft/xf/xfr-samsung1.jpg

On this pic it doesn't look all that well, but it's pretty straight in real life :)

http://home.quicknet.nl/qn/prive/schaft/xf/xfr-samsung4.jpg

[tcindie]

Looking good. :D

It does look like you're getting a little barrel distortion with your still camera, which would explain why it doesn't look like the edges of your case are straight in the photo.

[XFR]

There is a little bit distortion yeah :)

The final weight is only 650 grams, it's so light... it amazes me every time I pick it up :hv20-smilie84:
The 0.5mm aluminum is good stuff to work with, no special tools required. I used a Dremel and a file, also it bends very easily (do not bend it more than once though).
The lcd screen is connected to the front panel with small strips of double sided tape; very sticky stuff!

A few more pics (last one is clickable)

http://home.quicknet.nl/qn/prive/schaft/xf/xfr-samsung5.jpg

http://home.quicknet.nl/qn/prive/schaft/xf/xfr-samsung6.jpg (http://home.quicknet.nl/qn/prive/schaft/xf/xfr-samsung6-large.jpg)

[africanmarty]

wow its really looking good mate :) i havent had any time latey as ive been studying for exams so i have no time to work on my project :( but i got a 93% today so its paying off. Will keep you guys updated once more work is done to it.

two quick Q's though :


How did you get your screen to stay on ? did you glue it ? silicon ? bolt it on ?
"The lcd screen is connected to the front panel with small strips of double sided tape; very sticky stuff!" - should read before i post.

How will we mount it ? i wanted to put mine on a seperate tripod (using the thread bolt on the head) any ideas ?


- Marty

[some1shero]

nice work guys! this is really getting my juices going. i do like that idea of having a light alum casing.

XFR - do you think that 0.5mm is a bit weak for structural integrity? why did you not go with something a bit thicker? the weight would have been still in the 650- 700grams right?

i was thinking about building myself one based on what you guys are doing. so frustrating to focus without a monitor and moving in opposite directions is so hard to adjust with a lens adaptor.

good luck to all you guys building on! awesome work. awesome!

some1shero

[XFR]

How will we mount it ? i wanted to put mine on a separate tripod (using the thread bolt on the head) any ideas ?

I'll mount it on my rig, letting it hang on the left side of my camera. I'll also add a handgrip and shoulder support (I already had something improvised, it works great) :)

And some1shero: 0.5mm is thick enough I think, you can go for 1mm, but it's of course heavier :)
I'll probably add a little bit of reinforcement at the point where the construction connects to the rails.

[some1shero]

cool. that sounds awesome. i guess now it's getting the buttons and trying to integrate it with the casing.

what exactly do the buttons control? i'm going to assume they control the input values and is part of the internal menu system like brightness, contrast, hue, saturation, etc.

if you use hdmi, will the lcd recognize it automatically? or is input something that is controlled manually?

can't wait to see the finished product from both you guys.

it looks very promising.

[africanmarty]

hello all,

Still not finished but i thought i would post a pic for all to see how its coming along :

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/11/31300372266.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=7051066)

will post pics once finished. XFR looking good mate :)

[africanmarty]

another update guys :)

its mounted to a tripod ( where it will stay ) and i mounted the portable power supply its looking really good :)

LCD mounted to tripod :

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/11/31303004394.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=7051239)

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/11/31303004369.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=7051240)

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/11/31303004396.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=7051241)

power supply (rechargeable):

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/11/31303004397.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=7051242)

Regards Marty.

[RockyRoad2929]

Congrats...excellent job.

Cheers...

[XFR]

cool. that sounds awesome. i guess now it's getting the buttons and trying to integrate it with the casing.

what exactly do the buttons control? i'm going to assume they control the input values and is part of the internal menu system like brightness, contrast, hue, saturation, etc.

if you use hdmi, will the lcd recognize it automatically? or is input something that is controlled manually?

can't wait to see the finished product from both you guys.

it looks very promising.
The buttons control the power on/off, input channel and the LCD menu (with the settings you mentioned) :)
You will have to set the input channel manually to HDMI (only once)

[ESTEBEVERDE]

Let us know how it works!

[some1shero]

africanmarty... sweet. love the photos of your lcd.

i'm really jazzed about making one myself seeing how you and xfr are putting together these bad boys with ease. (well,...ease...relatively speaking):hv20-smilie77:

first, i need to purchase the lcd and controller kit!!

[africanmarty]

hey guys thanks for the kind words :) i highly recommend this LCD :) can you say "IN FOCUS" man i love it, just one more coat (of paint) and its done !, with it on the tripod its steady as a rock !

[keegan]

Anyone know where I can get one of these Samsung monitor kits here in the US?

keegan

[some1shero]

you can buy the monitor here:

http://www.manhattanlcd.com/

the website looks a bit shady, but people in the the lumelab forums buy his stuff and say good things about it. i think africanmarty or xfr bought it from him too.

the seller is a regular in the lume lab forums

http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19686

i will be putting my purchase for the 10.6 lcd kit tomorrow. it's runs $325 USD.

i was a bit hesitant at first because i wasn't sure of the seller, but other people on the forums trusted the guy, so i think i'll take my chances.

funny.....i don't trust online stores typically...but the moment a seller joins a forum to gain trust from people, i feel a lot safer about the purchase.:hv20-smilie03:

[keegan]

Awesome, thanks. I'm pretty sure I'll be getting this one too, seems to be the most bang for buck, even though I'll have to make an enclosure for it.

Speaking of which--anyone have tips for those of us looking to make an enclosure? I don't have access to special tools and such, so if anyone has done something that would be easy for me and home depot to tackle, that would be awesome. I've seen a couple photos up here--any reports of what works, what doesn't? It would be sweet if some enterprising individual wanted to put together a nice set of step-by-step instructions, like those for the 35mm adapters on Daniel's site.

Or I'll just get the LCD kit and see what I can coble together...

keegan

[zephyrnoid]

So how much do total materials, not including the DIY casing actually end up costing if sourced from a US company? I think one of our fabrication contacts can hammer out 20-30 casings if there's group buy interest. I just need to get an idea of what the final price point has to be to make it a venture worthy of a short run.Thanks for all those that have contributed to this thread!

[keegan]

Total cost for the screen and controller kit is $325, from manhattanlcd.com (listed above)

Bruce sells his very nice enclosure/screen combo for $850. But I'm not sure he is still making them. I emailed him and never heard back. While it is very nice, has lots of mounting options, etc., it is a bit pricey.
http://www.boacinema.com/projects/lcd_monitor/update1.htm

Speaking for myself, I'd like to see the price of an enclosure stay under $200, so around $500 for the whole monitor.

If you have a contact that could build an enclosure for around $200, I'd be in for sure.

keegan

[some1shero]

YEEEAHHH!!!:hv20-smilie45:

alright guys, i'm on my way to making a DIY 10.6" Samsung monitor!!!!!!!

i just made my purchase from Manhattan LCD.

The total cost for LCD panel and Controller Kit comes out to:

$368.24 USD

Apparently i got slapped with a CA sales tax even tho i ordered from a place in NY. I'll email the guy and see what's up with that. i also chose the FedExpress Shipping instead of the standard one. it was only $4 more. i think it was worth it.

wish me luck guys!!!! my first DIY project EVER!!!!:eek:

[africanmarty]

YEEEAHHH!!!:hv20-smilie45:

alright guys, i'm on my way to making a DIY 10.6" Samsung monitor!!!!!!!

i just made my purchase from Manhattan LCD.

The total cost for LCD panel and Controller Kit comes out to:

$368.24 USD

Apparently i got slapped with a CA sales tax even tho i ordered from a place in NY. I'll email the guy and see what's up with that. i also chose the FedExpress Shipping instead of the standard one. it was only $4 more. i think it was worth it.

wish me luck guys!!!! my first DIY project EVER!!!!:eek:

you'll love it :) you'll be fine just be paitent and dont rush it and it will turn out great. mine took days.

[Bruce Allen]

First off, massive respect to everyone on this forum!

Keegan gave me a call - we had a nice chat and I thought I should share it for fun.

If you want a good enclosure, with correct holes cut, painted black, with ability to mount on 1/4"-20 arms, and you're only doing one... it's probably going to cost quite a lot over $200 to get it made by someone else. Add on S+H and you'll very likely go over $300.

If you mess anything up with the first one, then it'll cost over $600 - plus a few weeks' turnaround. It took me 4 cases to get to my current design.

Then you'll still need a solution for the buttons. Oh, and you'll want to get all the right little black screws, fancy screwdrivers, etc. These are surpsisingly costly.

You will have spent quite a few hours on it by that point, which you will not have been reimbursed for.

You probably also need to own and know how to use some kind of CAD software that is compatible with the CNC system being used by the shop you're working with.

Anyway, just pointing out that if you are in a country where it's possible to earn a decent hourly wage, you'd be much better off spending the hours you would be spending making a monitor working instead, and then buying a Marshall. You'd probably have money left over.

Seriously, guys making cases - how many hours have you guys clocked in so far? If you had been doing freelance work instead, could you now have bought a Marshall?

Still I must admit it's a heck of a lot of fun to arrive at a shoot with a monitor you made yourself.

If you guys want a run of my cases, let me know. That saves me worrying about any electrical malfunctions / warranty / battery issues that happen with that LCD (you're buying the case from me, not the LCD + board). Wooohooo! Not my problem anymore! Sweet!

However due to abovementioned costs I would have to sell for around $400 or so. If you guys want to go ghetto on the buttons - leave the microswitches bare? Use tape to hold the IR sensor in, etc? maybe it can be done for less? Depends on how many want it, of course. $375 for ghetto button setup? I'm not very interested in selling for less than that because of simple things like the time it takes to pack, PayPal fees etc. I'll talk to the company that makes my cases and see if they can ship direct to you guys - that would rock as then we don't pay for shipping twice. Could cut it down further?

I'd like to do this - selling cases seems like a much better idea to me than selling whole monitors because I just don't have the time to make them and every time I build a monitor instead of doing a graphics job I am taking a cut in my day rate ;) I have a lot of irate people already emailing me asking where their monitor is and don't want to add to that number too! Maybe some of those people will do the DIY route too and then I'll have less irate folks waiting, that'd be good.

BTW long live the HV20 and this great forum. Also, it's a ton of fun seeing what everyone comes up with! It's kinda fun and painful and amazing all at the same time.

To everyone who emailed me: sorry, I've been on very low sleep for the past month or so. So haven't responded.

Take care and happy Thanksgiving. Most of my weekend will be spent going graphics stuff, putting together $%%#ing monitors :hv20-smilie45: - and wishing I was shooting films instead ;)

Bruce Allen
www.boacinema.com

[keegan]

HV20ers,

I for one would appreciate a run from Bruce on just the cases. How many others would be interested in the same?

I also think the cheaper the better. The reason to DIY is to do it for as little money as possible. Bruce thinks he can get the case price to around $375, and maybe even a bit lower if it can be simplified and his time commitment can be reduced. The way I see it is that the case needs to be mountable and protect the LCD and other components. Other than that, I personally would forgo good looking buttons and other costly niceties for a reduction in price. $350 would be great.

You would have to buy the 10.6" Samsung LCD kit separately ($325 @ manhattanlcd.com), and then get a case from Bruce (~$300-400, depending). That still gives you a killer monitor for pretty darn cheap.

I have asked Bruce if maybe he could put together a little instruction set for the case install--then we could get the LCD kit online and the case kit from Bruce and put them together on our own.

What do people think?

Bruce - this is a huge service to the film community, I salute you for all your invested time, money and effort in this project!

keegan

[Tõnis]

Is this really a 16:9 monitor? The resolution is a bit off so would it stretch the image or leave black bars on top and bottom?

Thanks in advance,
T

[wolferic]

Is this really a 16:9 monitor? The resolution is a bit off so would it stretch the image or leave black bars on top and bottom?

Thanks in advance,
T

T -

Check out Bruce's website http://www.boacinema.com/projects/lcd_monitor/index.htm , he addresses this issue I think. Also, Lumenlab forum has a lot of information about this, check a bit further down this thread or here: http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19686

[keegan]

Got my panel, took a crack and an enclosure. I was pleasantly surprised at how easy it was.

I ordered the 10.6" Samsung LCD panel from manahattanlcd.com. It was pretty daunting when it came out of the box. I planned it out for a while, and then went to home depot. I based mine on africanmarty's design.

The fiberboard that was originally was my second choice to nice plywood turned out to be extremely easy to saw and drill. The only tools I used were a saw, a power drill, and screwdrivers. Fiberboard, screws and nuts, and for the mounting bracket I used a 2x4 steel joist, drilled a hole in it and secured it to a still camera lens plate, and mounted that on my still camera tripod.

The piece that the screen is mounted to has two holes cut in it, where the power cable and controller cable for the panel go through. The buttons are held on with velcro for now.

I will also be getting an arm for it to mount to a tripod leg, c-stand or handheld rig. Probably the bogen double articulated arm, $85. Plus a mafer clamp.

For $325, you can't go wrong with this 1280x768 resolution monitor. You'd spend $800 for a 7" professional Marshall or Ikan, which still only have 800x480 resolution.

The build is daunting, but nowhere near as hard as it looks. Took me about 4 hours.

keegan
zaps21.com

in the pic, the little pieces of tape hold the screen protector as it ships from the vendor. I'm too scared to remove it just yet!
see more pics here: http://zaps21.com/shared/HV20/DIY_LCD_monitor/

[wolferic]

nice job Keegan. looks really good.

Where did you get the button panel? Did it come with the screen and controller from manhattanlcd? Any chance you could do a close up of it?

Congratulations. Looks like you've got a very workable monitor there.

[africanmarty]

looking really good keegan you'll be very happy with the monitor :) its coming along very nicely :)

[keegan]

Was on location all day yesterday with the monitor. Amazing. Made such a difference! Easy to check focus, easy for all to see what was going on.

That's the director in the red, not me. I'm behind taking the photos (was 1st AD and editor). Shot yesterday, edited a rough cut today. If you want to take a peek:
http://zaps21.com/shared/LAFS/intimate_rough.mov

Button panel came with the kit from manhattanLCD.com

keegan

[zephyrnoid]

Great! Loved the rough cut- can't wait to see the finished piece. So is there much to putting this monitor together? has anyone done a step-by-step or is it pretty much self-evident. Sounds like the enclosure is the main work. How do you find the screen contrast? If used outdoors, I imagine a hood is a must? Thanks for the movie and the pics of the monitor.

[RockyRoad2929]

Hey, Keenan;

How do you have displayed "24p" and "16:9" on your monitor? I can't seem to get that on my screen hen I'm shooting?

Thanks. Nice job.

Looking forward to buying & building one of those.

Cheers...

[africanmarty]

Just thought id post some pictures to show how the monitor looks hooked up and in action - regards Marty.

Click thumbnails for a bigger image:

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/12/34005334328.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=7240941)

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/12/34005334371.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=7240942)

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/12/34005334216.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=7240940)

PS: incase you were wondering the monitor wasnt turned on, i was just posing for the picture ;)

[Tõnis]

Please tell me if that Samsung crops any of the edges? Does it show 100% image?

Thanks,
T

[Duke]

My recollection is that someone here, or maybe at DVXUsers said it trims a tiny bit off the right and left edge, but still for focusing you can't beat the added resolution.

I'm going to try something a little different. :hv20-smilie01: A local electronics shop has aluminum project cases of various sizes. I assumed that the 10.4" screen is approximately 9 x 5.6". If anyone could measure the screen I'd appreciate it.

I ordered cap boxes that are pre-ventilated around the edges. (A cap box has a fairly small rim that overlaps the side by 1/2-3/4".) I can cut out holes for the screen to be on the inside and holes for the sockets, plugs, buttons, etc.

http://www.action-electronics.com/grc/lmcapp.jpg

The box I ordered is 7" x 11" x 2". You have to order two at a time and pay shipping. I might have one later.

I figured for mounting I can bolt and epoxy a reinforcing bar along three edges and still leave room for air. Maybe a prethreaded bar like a light box bridge or just a 1/4" hole and put a wing nut inside. My other thought is a tilting 1/4" x 20 mount to screw in the bottom of the monitor could be screwed into a steel frame if you're going to mount the camera upside down for a DOF adapter.

My only other question is; How many and what type of buttons does it take? I think I saw 5 on Bruce's. Are these momentary switches? (buttons you push for a second) Does that include the on off switch? I like the rocker for that.

Please advise what is on yours.:hv20-smilie77:

Thanks,
Duke

[some1shero]

John,

The Samsung LCD rough dimensions are W 9.5" x L 6.5"

if you ordered a box thats 7" x 11" x 2", then that should work out just fine.

as far as the button goes, i pm'ed you. it's hard to explain about the buttons without actually seeing them.

[Duke]

John,
The Samsung LCD rough dimensions are W 9.5" x L 6.5"
if you ordered a box thats 7" x 11" x 2", then that should work out just fine.
as far as the button goes, i pm'ed you. it's hard to explain about the buttons without actually seeing them.

Great! Thanks.
Duke

[some1shero]

for those of you who want to see the buttons,

pic of the buttons
http://hv20.info/yopu/some1shero_samsung_lcd_01_T.jpg (http://hv20.info/yopu/some1shero_samsung_lcd_01.jpg)


pic of the control board showing power, hdmi, vga, component
http://hv20.info/yopu/some1shero_samsung_lcd_02_T.jpg (http://hv20.info/yopu/some1shero_samsung_lcd_02.jpg)


the whole board
http://hv20.info/yopu/some1shero_samsung_lcd_03_T.jpg (http://hv20.info/yopu/some1shero_samsung_lcd_03.jpg)


button close up
http://hv20.info/yopu/some1shero_samsung_lcd_04_T.jpg (http://hv20.info/yopu/some1shero_samsung_lcd_04.jpg)


more buttons
http://hv20.info/yopu/some1shero_samsung_lcd_05_T.jpg (http://hv20.info/yopu/some1shero_samsung_lcd_05.jpg)


whole package
http://hv20.info/yopu/some1shero_samsung_lcd_06_T.jpg (http://hv20.info/yopu/some1shero_samsung_lcd_06.jpg)

enjoy all :hv20-smilie84:
some1shero

[Albert Saenz]

Hey, just wondering. I am pretty sure that I am going to be purchasing one of these rigs to use with my HV20/Brevis setup, but I am just wondering what that last little board is that comes with the kit. The one that looks like it has a warning or danger label on it. I see the buttons, the monitor, and the main control board, but what is that last little board? Just wondering. Thanks.

[some1shero]

that last small board it the power supply for the LCD.

just as a reminder to anyone who wants to buy this thing, the LCD GET HOT.:hv20-smilie68:

so be care when handling.

[Duke]

Some1shero was nice enough to let me look at his kit. The image quality is great and this monitor and will be a big help on focus issues.

Mounting the mother board and power panel should be easy, but I see two mounting issues.

The screen itself does get hot. Epoxy or two sided tape will likely fail with longer use. One person used an S shaped clamp on the edges. With a metal shell this will require some screws through the shell. Does anyone else have ideas about this.

The other issue is the button panel.
a) How to mount it. Some pressure is placed on the buttons. The panel doesn't have stand off mounting holes like the power panel and mother board does. It needs to be supported because of the pressure that will be placed on it. On the other hand there if very little room to make contact to support the board. The circuit tracks go to the edges and the solder points stick out on the back. Any ideas?

b) How to reach the buttons. The momentary buttons are NOT the tallest thing on that board. The capacitor on the end is taller, so the panel can't be flush mounted. Some1shero is planning a sliding button extension to rise up to the shell surface. Any other ideas? Anyone know what Bruce did?

What if new momentary swiitches were mounted directly to the shell and wires soldered onto the button panel? Then the panel wouldn't need the same support.

Duke

[zephyrnoid]

As a chronic DIY'r, I can pretty much invent a way around those issues...once I have the guts physically infront of me.I may have to get a set to 'team work' these solutions - maybe in real time.
For example.
-The screen itself does get hot.- For sure that the 'S' hooks are one solution or better still, a whole bezel 9I really mean frame that grips the edges and mounts onto the box via screws- aluminum sectiona picture frames spring to mind. Don't discount 100% Silicone as an adhesive. I've used it for Years and it's impervious to heat- not to mention some of the industrial adhesives out there that you need a smoke hood to apply.
-the button panel. I'd just plonk it into a dedicated box and silicone that to the outside edge of the main box. An aluminum panel box should be sourced or could be pirated from something else- like dead computer parts for example.
* One question. I'm assuming there's no room to heatsink the back of the screen, so really the box metal (aluminum is better than steel) and the airspace between the screen and the PCB are the only heat relief- right?
Anyone measure the surface temp - 'hot' doesn't mean much to me:hv20-smilie70:



Some1shero was nice enough to let me look at his kit. The image quality is great and this monitor and will be a big help on focus issues.

Mounting the mother board and power panel should be easy, but I see two mounting issues.

The screen itself does get hot. Epoxy or two sided tape will likely fail with longer use. One person used an S shaped clamp on the edges. With a metal shell this will require some screws through the shell. Does anyone else have ideas about this.

The other issue is the button panel.
a) How to mount it. Some pressure is placed on the buttons. The panel doesn't have stand off mounting holes like the power panel and mother board does. It needs to be supported because of the pressure that will be placed on it. On the other hand there if very little room to make contact to support the board. The circuit tracks go to the edges and the solder points stick out on the back. Any ideas?

b) How to reach the buttons. The momentary buttons are NOT the tallest thing on that board. The capacitor on the end is taller, so the panel can't be flush mounted. Some1shero is planning a sliding button extension to rise up to the shell surface. Any other ideas? Anyone know what Bruce did?

What if new momentary swiitches were mounted directly to the shell and wires soldered onto the button panel? Then the panel wouldn't need the same support.

Duke

[Duke]

The metal edges of the screen are cool enough you can momentarily handle when on, but hot enough you probably wouldn't want to hang on to the screen for a long period of time. No specific measurement done. I think an aluminum box and air flow will be enough of a heat sink.

African Marty just sent an idea about the buttons, I need to check some things first though.

Duke

[zephyrnoid]

OK. I'm on standbye. Let me know if you need any input.
The metal edges of the screen are cool enough you can momentarily handle when on, but hot enough you probably wouldn't want to hang on to the screen for a long period of time. No specific measurement done. I think an aluminum box and air flow will be enough of a heat sink.

African Marty just sent an idea about the buttons, I need to check some things first though.

Duke

[Albert Saenz]

I am getting ready to order my 10.6 kit from manhattanlcd, just wondering about the power adapter ratings for the 12v input on the board. What are you folks using? Does the one on the site work (He says it works on most of the controllers). Basically, if I go to RadioShack, which 12v adapter do I need? I will go to battery supply later, but I will need something to get this thing up and going. Thanks.

[Duke]

My two 7" x 11" cap boxes arrived. I'll see if I can get them over to Some1shero and we can drop his parts inside. If it looks good then I'll order my HD monitor kit.

Duke

[shenzo]

Hi there,
I'm new here and in film in general and find this is a great forum (one of my two favorite with the reduser one). I am trying to assemble my own amateur rig around the hv20. Are you guys able to flip the image horizontally and vertically with this DIY lcd? I saw some IKAN screens, a few inch shorter and definitly not the same resolution but which does the flips for the same price.
If not I wonder if some electronically knowledgeable person would be able to tweak the actual DIY Samsung kit to have the best screen ever made at this price?

Thanks and keep up the good work, it's a great learning tool for me as a newbie. :hv20-smilie70:

[Duke]

Some1shero and I finally got my cap box together with his electronics, and it is sweet! The screen is only going to leave appox. 1/2-3/4" around the edges of the 7" x 11" x 2" cap box.

There are some corner braces for strength, but the screen fits nicely between them. Plus it is pre-ventilated on all four edges.

I got them from http://action-electronics.com/ (search for cap box). They aren't too expensive, but you have to order two at a time. Total for two was $64.25 including shipping.

Some1shero is considering making it 1.5" tall instead of 2", but I don't think 2" is excessive. Taking off a half inch won't make that much difference, and I think it will allow the mounting points to be stronger if they have more to bite onto. We're also working on a better button mounting system without extending the buttons.

My plan is to add a set of aluminum strips for mounting points with both JB Weld and screws to distribute any torque evenly. I plan on putting a mounting point on all four edges for complete freedom of mounting.

To answer the post above, there is a Flip Hack as described by Jerry Lee. He did a great job with a two dipp switch. I know it flips top to bottom. I don't know if it mirrors. You'll have to search those posts and look at the pictures.

Or, simply mount the monitor upside down as many people have done. I imagine it's also possible to simply rotate the screen before you mount it.

The IKAN and Lilliput screens do both and X and Y axis flip, and they can be used to frame the picture, but the reason for doing this is the resolution for focusing. I have a Liliput on my Steadicam. It's not useful for focus. The LCD with the focus assist is better.

Duke

[zephyrnoid]

Great news! So now, when will a how-to be available so those of us with time but less than your smarts can get started?

[shenzo]

To answer the post above, there is a Flip Hack as described by Jerry Lee. He did a great job with a two dipp switch. I know it flips top to bottom. I don't know if it mirrors. You'll have to search those posts and look at the pictures.

Or, simply mount the monitor upside down as many people have done. I imagine it's also possible to simply rotate the screen before you mount it.

The IKAN and Lilliput screens do both and X and Y axis flip, and they can be used to frame the picture, but the reason for doing this is the resolution for focusing. I have a Liliput on my Steadicam. It's not useful for focus. The LCD with the focus assist is better.

Duke

Thanx for the tips Duke, I'll make a search on that flipping trick. Be glad to see some pics of your DIY lcd when finalized!

[shenzo]

Found the post of Jerry Lee about the LCD hack but that's actually for the HV20 LCD, not sure if flipping the HV20 LCD would also "flip" the HDMI output. I was wondering more if the controller from the samsung lcd kit could be hacked in some way to offer the possibility of X & Y flips....:hv20-smilie51:

[unconsenting]

Why would you? Just turn the whole monitor up-side-down. As Duke said, because it is DIY (do it yourself), you can mount the screen any way you want. Not anymore complicated than that.

[shenzo]

Why would you? Just turn the whole monitor up-side-down. As Duke said, because it is DIY (do it yourself), you can mount the screen any way you want. Not anymore complicated than that.

that's right. For some reason I thought mounting upside down was missing a horizontal flip....but it doesn't. Then yeah, why bother...thx

[Duke]

Experiment one on button mounting:

I wanted a way to mount the buttons that would prevent it from grounding out and be firm enough that you could push the buttons without breaking the button board.

First brilliant idea. Hot Wheels track. No kidding the orange stuff. Tough, not a conductor, flexible, easy to cut, light. Also, the bottom connection slots (where things like plastic tongue depressors slide in) are a great size for the button board. OK.

My first design was to put it front to back and trim the edges. However, the new hot wheels track is different than it used to be. Higher edges, etc. Instead I stacked it front to back, cut out holes for the buttons and it needed almost no trimming of the edges.:hv20-smilie77:

The one drawback of this type of plastic is it has a tendency to tear if it's a small piece. Therefore, I'll leave the entire edge for protection of the mounting screws.

On the back I just cut a little square for the wire jack. And on the front there are holes for the capaciter and the IR sensor. There is an extra piece on that end (that will be held with epoxy and pressure) to protect the capaciter. Plus I'll probably put a little piece of tape over the metal box in that area to further insulate the capaciter, just in case.

I plan on using my drill press to drill nice neat holes in the metal case where the buttons are, to let the tip of the buttons stick out. I'm going to test in on another piece of metal first though.

[Note: I looked up my screen model number and it said 10.6" and 800 pixels height, while manhattenlcd had it listed as 10.4" and 768. I measured and it is 10.6" diag. As a result I wouldn't trust anyone's template or measurements. They may have a slightly different button board or screen size.]

[Duke]

The buttons are now installed in the cap box. It turned out that a drill was NOT the way to make holes in the sides of the box. The flutes of the drill caught the predrilled holes and made the button holes oblong and off center. I tried to straighten them out with a dremil and a tapered grinder, but that didn't work either.

Instead I opted for a slot cut in the side using the predrilled holes for alignment. That worked well. It also turned out that 2.5mm screws fit perfectly in the predrilled holes. A flat file was very helpful to smooth out the opening and make it flat.

I painted one end just to see what it would look like. I may paint the face that will be towards me a dark hammered metal gray. I know pro stuff is usually flat black, and I will paint the screws black, but I don't think dark gray will be bad. It needs a little accent.

Now I'm working on the SD board installation.

[Duke]

I've now cut the opening for the screen. I have more than one potential mounting system, so I have to experiment before I decide on which one to use.

Ignore the bubbles in the protective plastic and the reflection of the light. I'm probably going to work on the edges a touch more too. However the JPG makes it seem more jaggy than it is in real life. A file used on the diagonal works wonders for straightening the edges by averaging over a larger area.

I've already cut holes for the cable jacks. Only three more steps after that.

Duke

[jlaurie]

Hi,
just want to double check.

http://www.manhattanlcd.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=1001

and I'm assuming it will work the same on my hg10.

my use is to occassionally (amateur) record my wife's auditorium based dance recitals for the parents to buy. Looks like this will be an inexpensive solution to be able to see the focus and general exposeure while shooting. I have a hard time seeing it on the small screen as its happening. ("damn these eyes" (Young Frankenstein)). My results are just ok and could really use better real time focus and gain adjustments ongoing.

thanks,
Jack (Riverside, Ca)

[Duke]

Yep, that's the one. Nice kit intended for DIY LCD projecters, but has multiple inputs, high resolutions and is very adaptable to our needs. You do need to fashion a case, etc yourself.

Duke

[jlaurie]

welp...on its way. What seems to be the easiest to make and get parts for an enclosure you've see so far with instructions? Also which 12v adapter and where (radio shack?) how many ohms?

thanks

[Duke]

There are no instructions and no manual. There have been several designs, all with their strengths and weaknesses. You get to decide.

Build from wood, plastic or metal.
Mount the screen upside up or upside down.
Where do you want the buttons and how do you want to install them.
Jacks out the bottom or the top.
Where to put the mounting points, and how.

I haven't tried a 12v adaptor yet. Some1shero has one though, and maybe some of the other guys. You might also ask Bruce Allen.

That's the fun part. Don't rush it.
Duke

[Duke]

My case is nearly ready to install the 'guts' into it, although I decided to install two more mounting points, just in case.

Originally I was going to paint it flat black because so much pro stuff is flat black to prevent any reflections onto the subject. However, a) I've always thought flat black looks and feels ugly, b) dark gray hammered metal paint looks great, feels great and hides small defects, c) lots of Sony stuff (Red too?) has that hammered metal gray paint.

So I painted the case dark gray hammered metal. In fact, I'm going to paint my rig for holding the camera upside down dark gray hammered metal with black accents, and because I'm going to take my camera apart to do the flip hack with switches, I'm going to paint certain panels of it dark gray hammered metal. (They make a matching paint intended for plastic.)

If this lets me upload five pictues you'll see one of the screen, one for the openings for the cable jacks, one of the button area cut out with infra red hole and one along the top edge. The mounting point is shown from inside the monitor so it's not painted.

Inside the screen opening you can see I've already made the holes for the stand off screws to hold the motherboard away from the metal. I ended up going with 4-40x1/2" screws for the motherboard. If you go 3/4" they are too long to get the jacks through the openings. The power board is on 3/4" screws to let any heat vent straight through the holes.

The screws through the predrilled holes are 2.5mm of a couple different lengths.

The mounting point is 1/8th inch by 1" aluminum strap cut to 4" wide. Then a half inch hole drilled in it, and a nut for 1/4x20 (standard camera and tripod size) epoxyed into the hole with JB Weld. Another plate is on the outside to reinforce it, made by hand from a piece cut from the screen opening so it's the same thickness as the edge of the cap for flush mounting. The cap to the box adds to the rigidness of the mount by providing an angle.

I'm mounting the monitor to the rig using a Manfroto tripod ball head, so the monitor will be able to tilt and turn in all directions. It fastens to the adjustable plateform with a 3/8" cap screw and a 1.5" neoprene washer for support.

I'll install the two other mounting points, which are relatively easy since I don't have to allow for the cable jacks. Then I'll give it a second coat and assemble it. It's almost done.

Duke

[Duke]

Here's a picture with the rest of the stand off screws for the motherboard and power board installed. Also the rest of the mounting points are installed.

Besides a reinforcing plate and 1/4" nut I used JB Weld and two screws on each mounting point. That should be enough considering it's basiclly a compression fitting.

Then there is a picture showing the motherboard, power panel installed and the buttons installed. The funny little plate above the component jacks in the middle picture levels the tripod head plate and by trapping the frame on the front makes the bottom more rigid since all the openings would otherwise weaken that side. That mounting problem wasn't an issue on the other mounting points.

Finally a picture with the screen frame installed. Once I install the screen I'm done. Hallaluja! I can see the light at the end of the tunnel. (Of course I then have to plug it in and see if I fry the whole thing....)

Duke

[zephyrnoid]

Duke. I'm totally impressed! This looks like the most versatile and least painful solution (not counting cutting out the screen window)
I have a couple of questions.
1) how many hours do you estimate it would take someone with the same skill as you and obviously, the tools to do a build like this?
2) Tell why you decided to frame the screen rather than simply surface mount it.
Thanks!

[Duke]

Duke. I'm totally impressed! This looks like the most versatile and least painful solution (not counting cutting out the screen window)
I have a couple of questions.
1) how many hours do you estimate it would take someone with the same skill as you and obviously, the tools to do a build like this?
2) Tell why you decided to frame the screen rather than simply surface mount it.

Thanks.

Cutting the opening for the screen was relatively painless, but I went through a lot of Dremel discs. I believe you have to allow for 1 disk for every two inches of cut on the thin case and 1 disc per inch on the 1/8" bar, plus some disc shatter.

Total time? Hard to figure. Getting the parts together was the most time consuming. I must have gone to the hardware store half a dozen times. Two to three weeks in total because I had other things to do. Also, you need to allow JB weld and paint time to dry. If I did nothing else I could have done it in about 3-4 days, but you have to plan it out ahead of time.

The openings for the cable jacks were the hardest because some cuts were smaller than the blade. Also drilling in a preforatted area was impossible to get a clean hole. Finally, don't put the holes in for the motherboard until all the fittings etc are done for the cable jack holes.

I chose to put the screen on the inside of the box just to create a clean professional look when I'm done. It's really no different as far as difficulty to put it inside or outside. In essence the same attachment methods are available.

Duke

[ForwardLooker]

Great work duke!! your enclosure is looking nice. cant wait to see th efinished product.

I'm trying to search for an enclosure similar to yours in the uk.

[jlaurie]

Duke,

If you have extra track, I like your solution. Are you happy with it? If you'd be willing I'll paypal you $5 and you send me some? I'm in Riverside (Or I can pick it up on the way to Disneyland :) or my daughter is at UCI. Or, I'll be going to the Irvine spectrum this Sat. close?):hv20-smilie70:

Jack
jlauriemd@hotmail.com

[jackinthebox]

It appears Manhatten LCD doesn't list the 10.6" on its inventory page anymore. Do you think they'll carry this again in the future? I wanted one.

[Duke]

No one here has any connection to manhattanlcd. However, they probably will, although last time it went up $25.

[delaney]

Its this a bit much for most work?

If you look at the monitor and setups used in most professional setting they don't use full hd monitors for getting focus and framing.

Even look at the top of the line in digital cameras at the moment, the Red One. Its Red LCD is 5.6". Your setup seem bulky at 10.4 for handheld. While I applaud the DIY know how it seems like using a 22" lcd monitor for $330 with HDMI built-in would be the better choice on a second tripod or pelican case.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824252015

Not trying to start a flame, just giving a different perspective.

[Duke]

Its this a bit much for most work?

If you look at the monitor and setups used in most professional setting they don't use full hd monitors for getting focus and framing.

Even look at the top of the line in digital cameras at the moment, the Red One. Its Red LCD is 5.6". Your setup seem bulky at 10.4 for handheld. While I applaud the DIY know how it seems like using a 22" lcd monitor for $330 with HDMI built-in would be the better choice on a second tripod or pelican case.


You make choices based on your own circumstances. I agree an HD monitor isn't necessary for framing.

If you use a 35mm DOF adapter you can't use auto focus. You must manually focus. 1920x1080 is just over 2 megapixels. My HD monitor is 1 megapixel and the minimum I feel is necessary to focus properly by hand.

A Marshall field monitor is 800x600 (less than half a megapixel) and costs $4,000. Yes, you could stick a 22" monitor on a tripod. My 10.6" diag. monitor is only 11" wide and runs on 12 volts. It is mounted on the camera rig and is portable. (It's only 4" wider than my 7" low res framing monitor.) A second tripod isn't needed for the HD monitor.

If you don't think a focus monitor is necessary for hand focusing, try hand focusing and then put it on a really big screen. You'll be looking for a monitor immediately.

No offense taken. If you don't want a DOF adapter or to hand focus then the monitor is over kill.
Duke

[bluegrass]

Its this a bit much for most work?

If you look at the monitor and setups used in most professional setting they don't use full hd monitors for getting focus and framing.

Even look at the top of the line in digital cameras at the moment, the Red One. Its Red LCD is 5.6". Your setup seem bulky at 10.4 for handheld. While I applaud the DIY know how it seems like using a 22" lcd monitor for $330 with HDMI built-in would be the better choice on a second tripod or pelican case.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824252015

Not trying to start a flame, just giving a different perspective.

I think your missing the point. For field recording, you certainly don't want to be carrying around a 22" monitor and needing an AC feed to your location. Many of us are shooting a lot of our video at locations that would prohibit a 22" monitor even if you carried a second tripod to support it.

There is no doubt in my mind that if I were doing all my recording indoors that I would have purchased a 22" or slightly smaller HD monitor instead of purchasing Bruce's 10.5" HD monitor for around $700. I can use my monitor in the field very easily, even on a shoe mount above my camcorder.

If you think professional level productions that have move over to video from film don't have a $2000 to $3000 HD monitor attached to their HD camcorder rig, I think you're really misinformed.

[jackinthebox]

I think I've found the same screen (screen only, though) on ebay for $225 + $30 shipping from Hong Kong to US.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Samsung-10-6-Inch-WXGA-LCD-screen-panel-LTN106W2-L01_W0QQitemZ140022623555QQihZ004QQcategoryZ51160Q QrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQtrksidZp1638.m118.l1247QQc mdZViewItem

Guess I could order this and buy the controller board from Manhatten LCD for $130.

I think this is the same screen that was offered in the DIY kit. Forgive me if this has been posted already.

[delaney]

Oh I get what you guys are saying. I've used 16mm cameras where you don't even get the benefit of a monitor to check focus on. If you are a shoot that needs fast accurate focusing then you make sure to pull and mark your talent accurately. I guess to me the screen is more of a backup to make me feel comfortable that a shot is not getting buzzed. Just seems like 10.4" is a beast for a handheld type work.

Bluegrass I know what you mean about AC but any time thats been a concern my DC inverter, a quality extension cord and my Dodge have worked fine on locations when plugs weren't available. My little 7" lcd will pull 8W and 12v and can't imagine what this one will use.

I guess it just seems like overkill when the monitors used for film and broadcast work (even 4k images) use a 800x450 for the majority of work. Yes I know that 1/3 full res but if you know your focus pull then it seems like a none issue.

Of course my first run and gun wedding or documentary work with an adapter might change my mind, but I'm anxious to see it on the rig and maybe some video of it in action!

[ForwardLooker]

Oh I get what you guys are saying. I've used 16mm cameras where you don't even get the benefit of a monitor to check focus on. If you are a shoot that needs fast accurate focusing then you pull and mark your talent. I guess to me the screen is more of a backup to make me feel comfortable that a shot is not getting buzzed. Just seems like 10.4" is a beast for a handheld type work.

Bluegrass I know what you mean about AC but any time thats been a concern my DC inverter, a quality extension cord and Dodge have worked fine on locations that plugs weren't available. My little 7" will pull 8W and 12v and can't imagine what this one will use.

I guess it just seems like overkill when the monitors used for film and broadcast work (even 4k images) use a 800x450 for the majority of work. Yes I know that 1/3 full res but if you know your focus pull then it seems like a none issue.

Of course my first run and gun wedding or documentary work with an adapter my change my mind, but I'm anxious to see it on the rig and maybe some video of it in action!

I think your missing the point, i understand you are comming with a different point of view but...you have to remember there are 2 focusing stages when working with an adapter. first you focus on the gg(focusing screen) then you you focus your prime lens on your subject. when working with a 16mm or a RED theres just focusing on the subject. i think the most important thing when using these HD monitors is the first stage focusing on the gg. if you get that slightly off (which is very possible with 800x450) you will be left with a HD image that is soft.
you say "monitors used for film and broadcast work (even 4k images) use a 800x450 for the majority of work." well if that resolution worked for us dont you think we would be using monitors with that resolution?? clearly it doesnt and if there where 7" monitors that gave us 1280 x 768 we would use em.

[Duke]

Duke,

If you have extra track, I like your solution. Are you happy with it? If you'd be willing I'll paypal you $5 and you send me some? I'm in Riverside (Or I can pick it up on the way to Disneyland :) or my daughter is at UCI. Or, I'll be going to the Irvine spectrum this Sat. close?):hv20-smilie70:

Jack
jlauriemd@hotmail.com

Two words "Garage Sale".

[bluegrass]

Delaney

I get your point about supplying AC in the field but I record a lot of outdoor concerts where I would definitely be interferring with the audience if I setup a 22" monitor in front of my lawn chair, I guarentee it. Plus even if someone wasn't being blocked by the monitor, I'm sure I would be getting some strange looks from the audience and the performers on stage as I was taping. With my 10.5" monitor rig and the HV20, I stay fairly inconspicuous. I also route (after dark when there is no one playing on the stage) an xlr cable from my isle seat down to the speaker farm and deploy a good microphone on a stand in front of one of the speaker farms. Since the sound guy pipes the same to left & right farms, I record mono to left & right channels.

I too, do my best to keep portable AC power available to me. I'm working to setup an DIY rig on a portable two wheel cart with a marine battery and DC to AC converter to power lights, small 8 channel mixer, etc. I've also purchased about an 850 watt UPS which after I disconnected the disturbing alarm, provides me some nice portable power in a pretty compact unit. I must mention, my field operations are generally headquatered from a ground tent in a campground where I have AC available for recharging things & to run my laptop computer & printer for editing and printing DVDs & cases in the field.

If you have enough determination and drive, you can do a lot of things DIY. & Yes, I have taken my 32" HD monitor with me & used it in my tent to demonstrate some of my videos. I have a pretty strong and very portable table to accomodate the technology I sometimes have with me in the field.

[jlaurie]

lol....your right garage sale it is.

I ordered my perf box today. I've got a buddy who is building a whole diy airplane whose going to help me down at his hanger.
Do you guys mount 1/4 nuts on the top and bottom so you can flip and mount either way?

[Duke]

1/4-20 nuts for mounting. That's what I did on three sides. That way you can flip it if you want.

Duke

[Duke]

At long last my DIY Samsun HD monitor is finished. I'm charging the battery now (Tekken from Newegg.com) and then I can start testing.

Mounting the screen turned out more difficult than I expected. I used 8-32x1/2" screws, then 1/4" tall threaded standoffs, since the screen is almost exactly 1/4" thick. Some screws I was able to us 1" fender washers to overlap with the screen.

However, in some areas I was afraid the metal might touch circuits, so some areas used different sized washers as clips to hold the screen in place.

Here is the finished product.
Duke

[ForwardLooker]

wow duke, that looks very very nice!! great work!

[ForwardLooker]

I just got a message from the guy at manhattanlcd.com saying " 10.6" LCD Sold OUT, Order the 12.1 kit. The 10.6 is gone forever." .
It seems they are still selling the MST controller for the 10.6" LCD.

You can still buy a 10.6" kit in europe here: DIY-Beamer.com (http://www.diy-beamer.com/EN/store/comersus_viewItem.asp?idProduct=314)

[Duke]

I found several places on the internet that sell the kits, or similar kits. The screen is actually a notebook screen (that's why it has the odd resolution). Some places are selling the screens they pulled from old notebooks fairly cheaply. The LCD screen is the most expensive part.

For my project I tested it with component from the HV20 and it does very well. By the way, I mounted the screen upside down inside the case, so I don't need to flip anything or do the flip hack. (Although I put several mounting points so I can put it either way.)

I need to pick up an HDMI cable and read up on changing the output on the HV20, then I can test it further. So far it's working great.

Duke

[thequads]

^mind sharing some links to other kits? I'm slapping myself for not strikiing on this sooner.

[Duke]

Had I but known I'd have saved some of the links. You're just going to have to search the internet. Sorry. (Search for the model number of the screen, which is now sealed in the case. Maybe one of the other guys can look at theirs.) Also search for LCD projector kits, which is what this actually was/is.

Here is the link to my rig, nearly done, with the monitor mounted.
Rig Pictures and Thread. (http://www.hv20.com/showthread.php?p=47740#post47740)

Duke

[funkg]

hey looks good, looking forward to seeing it with the cam mounted!
By the way, how are you finding the viewing angle on this monitor? Have you tried it out in the sunlight yet?

[Duke]

I've only tried it a little outside, but I don't think it's going to be a problem.

First, it's an illuminated screen. (has a bulb inside)

Second, I put it on a ball head so I can tilt it down or any direction I need. I can adjust for glare.

Third, I plan on a black hood mounted with the mounting screw holes that I'm not using (ie. top and one side) with extra space on one side to get to the buttons.

Duke

[dthreatt]

is there anywhere I can purchase a case to mount these monitors. I have been looking for 3 days and cannot find one large enough for the 12.1 or 15.4 inch panels.

[Duke]

Go up several posts on this thread and I put in a link to cap boxes at Action Electronics. Wait here it is Action Electronics (http://www.action-electronics.com/). Search for cap boxes, or other types of enclosures/project boxes.

One draw back is they only sell two at a time for approximately $65 with shipping. See if you can get someone to split one with you. (Or keep a back up in case you F&%K up.)

Figure the screen measurement is diagonal and cap boxes are measured on the sides.

For example on the 10.6" screen the long side is about 9.5" and the short side is about 6", so I bought one that's 11" x 7".

Good luck, and send us pictures. I'd like to see how others turn out.
Duke

[Duke]

Here's one of the same type of screen.

Samsung screen (http://cgi.ebay.com/Samsung-10-6-Inch-WXGA-LCD-screen-panel-LTN106W2-L01_W0QQitemZ140022623555QQihZ004QQcategoryZ51160Q QrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQtrksidZp1638.m118.l1247QQc mdZViewItem)

Here are some others:
More screens (http://search.stores.ebay.com/BLISS-COMPUTERS-LCD-SCREEN-STORE_LTN106W2-L01_W0QQfciZ5QQfclZ3QQfsnZBLISSQ20COMPUTERSQ20LCDQ 20SCREENQ20STOREQQfsooZ1QQfsopZ3QQsaselZ65658016QQ satitleZLTN106W2Q2dL01QQsofpZ0)

Do an internet search for this part number: LTN106W2-L01
Duke

[ForwardLooker]

Thanks duke, i came accross those today.

Now my concern is the mst controller, manhattan lcd have stopped stocking 10.6" so i pressume they will just sell the rest of there 10.6" controllers and that'll be it (Still waiting for a response abou this). Has anyone seen the 10.6" mst controller being sold on its own any where else?

[Duke]

You need the MST controler, a button board and power inverter.

On the internet some of the places that sell the screen sell the other parts too, but you have to research a lot to find them. Heck I'd ask the guy in Hong Kong.

Duke

[thequads]

hey thanks for the link Duke. So the mst controller doesn't come with buttons? Is it possible to go withought buttons and just use the remote?
I'm almost ready to jump on the ebay lcd and manhattanlcd 10.6 mst controller.. but if there are items not included that will screw me ova.

[Duke]

hey looks good, looking forward to seeing it with the cam mounted!


I just posted some in the 'Design Parameters' thread.
Pictures (http://hv20.com/showthread.php?t=5315&p=48050) Since the monitor is pretty well done I'll stop here.

Duke

[thequads]

arg, screw it, I'm going to order the 12.1. The new version without the clouding is out, and it's a little cheaper than finding a 10.6 anyways.

[Duke]

arg, screw it, I'm going to order the 12.1. The new version without the clouding is out, and it's a little cheaper than finding a 10.6 anyways.

If you get the kit it's included. If not, I don't know, because I didn't order it that way. You need to speak with ManhattanLCD, or some other vendor.

Duke

[ForwardLooker]

You need the MST controler, a button board and power inverter.

On the internet some of the places that sell the screen sell the other parts too, but you have to research a lot to find them. Heck I'd ask the guy in Hong Kong.

Duke

DIY-Beamer.com sells the controller seprately with all the neccesaries:

http://diy-beamer.com/EN/store/comersus_listItems.asp?idCategory=154

[ForwardLooker]

As the guy from manhattanlcd.com doesnt seem to want to reply to anymore of my emails....does anyone know if you buy the 10.6 MST Controller you get the menu board, invertor and cabels?

[zephyrnoid]

I paid for a 10" Kit and got my money refunded without explanation. I kinda knew this might happen with an UNTRACEABLE identity. Short of invoking my 'spook' contacts, I'd avoid this character, besides, he might be a member here in disguise- always a creepy possibility :hv20-smilie84:



As the guy from manhattanlcd.com doesnt seem to want to reply to anymore of my emails....does anyone know if you buy the 10.6 MST Controller you get the menu board, invertor and cabels?

[RockyRoad2929]

Hey,

Is there any other place to get the 10.5 kit then?

Too bad, I was about to order one from him. Hope he's not pissed at us for buying his product...if so, what happened???

Cheers...

[thequads]

he probably ran out of 10.6 inch kits so canceled the order, but who knows.

He hasn't returned my last email either, was about to jump onto the 12 incher. I tried to order the kit from DIY-beamer, but it wouldn't let me put it into the shopping cart :(

[RockyRoad2929]

Too bad. It seems like a great product and service he was providing for us. Hope he's not pissed at us...can't see anyone beening pissed at us; HV20 users...we are the funniest bunch around, I say and smart too...!!!

Hope he'll get some more and post it back on his site. That would be great.

Was he the only guy that was selling these?

cheers...

[ForwardLooker]

I just got a reply from manhattanlcd.com saying that there is only 1 10.6" MST controller left and then there not selling em anymore. I dont understand why theyre phasing out there 10.6" stuff??? just people from this forum alone have bought a $%^t load is last few months i thought they where a popular item hmm..

I've been in touch with guy from DIY-Beamer and he respomds to emails very quickly. I bought my lcd from ebay now i'm gonna buy the 10.6" controller from DIY-beamer.

thequads, try the cart again, i've added stuff to cart and it was fine.

zephyrnoid, funny you should say that cus i got a response after you posted that. :hv20-smilie87:

[thequads]

I just got a reply from manhattanlcd.com saying that there is only 1 10.6" MST controller left and then there not selling em anymore. I dont understand why theyre phasing out there 10.6" stuff??? just people from this forum alone have bought a $%^t load is last few months i thought they where a popular item hmm..

I thought it was because samsung stopped manufacturing the 10 inchers.
Anyway, I just ordered the 12 incher kit. Manhattanlcd seems to be getting good reviews from other forums, so I'm not too worried about ordering from him.

[ForwardLooker]

I thought it was because samsung stopped manufacturing the 10 inchers.
Anyway, I just ordered the 12 incher kit. Manhattanlcd seems to be getting good reviews from other forums, so I'm not too worried about ordering from him.

Is that official?

I dont doubt manhattanlcd.com as plenty of people here have delt with em but they only replied to 2 out 4 of my emails which wasnt helpful to me.

DIY-Beamer.com only sell a 10.6" kit & controller and the guy i bought my screen off on ebay had 70 available so at least there is still plenty available for poeple who want to use the 10.6" screen. :hv20-smilie77:

[RockyRoad2929]

Hey,

I did some research about this 10.6 monitor it seems that the guy who is selling them is avatar on the Lumenlab site is: Jonjandran. He is the guy that owns ManhattanLCD that most of you bought the monitor from. He says in his post:

The 10.6" is no longer stocked because the manufacturer has discontinued them.

So, that's the reason why he isn't selling them. Well, that's what he's saying but it seems that others are selling them.

Here is one place:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330022874172&ssPageName=MERCOSI_VI_ROSI_PR4_PCN_BIX_Stores&refitem=330167365882&itemcount=4&refwidgetloc=closed_view_item&refwidgettype=osi_widget

or here:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Samsung-10-6-Inch-WXGA-LCD-screen-panel-LTN106W2-L01_W0QQitemZ140022623555QQihZ004QQcategoryZ51160Q QrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQtrksidZp1638.m118.l1247QQc mdZViewItem

You still need the controller and power unit.

I'll try DIY-Beamer.com.

Thanks ForwardLooker...

[RockyRoad2929]

Made a mistake...the guy is Johnzo1995.

Doesn't matter since he isn't selling them anymore.

Boo Hoo...!!! That sucks...but he is selling the MST controller $130.00

[ForwardLooker]

rocky,

can you try and find out what you get with the MST controller from ManhattanLCD as this is one question he didnt answer for me. I know you get all thats needed from DIY-Beamer.com but its slightly cheaper at ManhattanLCD and every penny counts.

Thanks

[RockyRoad2929]

rocky,

can you try and find out what you get with the MST controller from ManhattanLCD as this is one question he didnt answer for me. I know you get all thats needed from DIY-Beamer.com but its slightly cheaper at ManhattanLCD and every penny counts.

Thanks

Hey ForwardLooker,

I think you only get the MST Controller.

Yes, I saw that too from DIY Beamer...There seems to be two controller, One for Pal European version and one for US. I think MannahanLCD is selling the US one. I think the difference is that Euro is with SCART and US not...

Hope that's helps out.

Cheers...

[ForwardLooker]

Hey ForwardLooker,

I think you only get the MST Controller.

Yes, I saw that too from DIY Beamer...There seems to be two controller, One for Pal European version and one for US. I think MannahanLCD is selling the US one. I think the difference is that Euro is with SCART and US not...

Hope that's helps out.

Cheers...

Ok rocky thanks,

i've spoken to the guy at DIY Beamer about compatability as i want the US version even tho i live in the uk. As it has an av connection rather than a large scart connector. he said they both run on 12v and both display pal and ntsc so it makes no difference. :hv20-smilie77:

[RockyRoad2929]

there u go...

[dancingii]

I've been on this forum for a while, but this is my first post. I've been following this thread pretty close. I ordered the mst controller from the guy at manhattan lcd, and e-mailed him. He told me that his controller comes with all the cables and necessary stuff. I was wondering if the screen linked to earlier in this post will definitely work before I buy it.

here is the screen I/m asking about.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&Item=140022623555&Category=51160&_trksid=p3907.m29

thanks in advance

[dancingii]

the screen in my previous post has ended right after i posted. I bought this one instead.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=260206696923&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT&ih=016

i'm pretty sure it should still work.

[ForwardLooker]

I've been on this forum for a while, but this is my first post. I've been following this thread pretty close. I ordered the mst controller from the guy at manhattan lcd, and e-mailed him. He told me that his controller comes with all the cables and necessary stuff. I was wondering if the screen linked to earlier in this post will definitely work before I buy it.

here is the screen I/m asking about.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&Item=140022623555&Category=51160&_trksid=p3907.m29

thanks in advance

Welcome dancingii,

It was lucky didnt get that screen from the ebay seller PC Centre Hong Kong. i bought a screen from him last wednsday, for some reason it took him 6 days to ship then just before he shipped it he told me that the screen is not actually the LTN106W2-L01 its the -L07 which wont be compatible according to him.

I think i'm gonna get the screen from where u got yours from, can you tell me how it goes..shipping time etc...

[dancingii]

as soon as i receive it, I will let you know about ship time and all that. I also called them right before i ordered it to make sure that it was the same model number. they were very helpful, and they're located in new jersey, which is nice for me since i'm in ohio.

[andy9000]

Hello all fellow HV20 users,

has anyone bought/ordered the 10.6" Samsung kit from Europe. I can buy it from the States also and the euro-dollar ratio is in favour for us europeans, but there's always the customs thing and also having to pay vat. (once the product gets to Finland) and shipping the difference in the end might not be worth it especially something is wrong with the product etc.

So, my question is can someone recommend a reliable online shop for Samsung 10.6" within EU ?? Thanks.

[musicjules]

Hello all fellow HV20 users,

has anyone bought/ordered the 10.6" Samsung kit from Europe. I can buy it from the States also and the euro-dollar ratio is in favour for us europeans, but there's always the customs thing and also having to pay vat. (once the product gets to Finland) and shipping the difference in the end might not be worth it especially something is wrong with the product etc.

So, my question is can someone recommend a reliable online shop for Samsung 10.6" within EU ?? Thanks.

i'm still searching ... and the worst ? i have two 15,4 LCD 1680x1050 screen of broken laptops (LG phillips and a DELL) and i didn't find a solution to use one of them so far ... crazy !!

if i found something i will PM you :hv20-smilie70: i hope soon !

[daniel schaumberger]

to andy9000:

I bought my 10.6" kit from here:
http://www.diy-beamer.com/DE/store/comersus_viewItem.asp?idProduct=313
The seller is from austria and the shipping was very fast.

all the best
Daniel

[jackinthebox]

So is ONLY the LTN106W2-L01 compatible with the MST controller that seems to be more widely avaibable than its screen counterpart? This place seems to have some variations of that model number. The W1 is like half the price new!

http://www.lcds4less.com/samsung-notebook-lcd.shtml

(last section of page has the screens I'm talking about)

[jlaurie]

Hi,
I have one of the manhattan 10.6 samsung . I know its 12v....does the amp matter? I see on their site they sell a 2.5 amp transformer. I have one at home that fits but rated 2amp. Does it matter?
thanks,
jack

[bluegrass]

Hi,
I have one of the manhattan 10.6 samsung . I know its 12v....does the amp matter? I see on their site they sell a 2.5 amp transformer. I have one at home that fits but rated 2amp. Does it matter?
thanks,
jack

A rule of thumb is that if you know the watts of a device, you can multiply a power adapter say thats 12vdc and 2 amps and come up with 24 watts. I would always try and get a power pack that is rated at least a few watts above the device that it's going to power.

Amps X Voltage = watts.

EX. a 100 watt light bulb plugged into a 120 volt outlet would use 120/100 or 1.2 amps of current.

[vibrations]

anyone had any problems connecting hdmi in to your 10.6?
mine works fine on vga (1280x768, 60hz) but nothing happening with hdmi - the hv20 play/out setup reads hdmi out 1920x1080i...

[vibrations]

Hi,
I have one of the manhattan 10.6 samsung . I know its 12v....does the amp matter?

according to Bruces' site

The technical specs for the power input are:
12V DC power +-0.5V, 1.5mA, center polarity positive, barrel size 5.5mm OD x 2.8mm ID

[ForwardLooker]

anyone had any problems connecting hdmi in to your 10.6?
mine works fine on vga (1280x768, 60hz) but nothing happening with hdmi - the hv20 play/out setup reads hdmi out 1920x1080i...

Correct me if i'm wrong as i havnt recived my set yet, dont you have to select the input you want to use in the menu of the LCD?

[vibrations]

dont you have to select the input you want to use in the menu of the LCD?
yes, this is right - you can select it with the remote
selecting 'hdmi' just gives a 'no signal' message
guess i'll have to order the CTC-100 component cable (my hv20 came from japan with a weird japanese D-terminal component cable - lucky me!)
it's a lovely little monitor though - really quite clear and bright

[thequads]

hey,

I'm trying to mount the pcb board onto a metal backing. Will it short if the back of the board touches the metal?

thanks.

[Duke]

For the HDMI signal try changing it with the remote control. That seemed to work easier for me. Once it's on it will stay on HDMI until you change it.

For the board, yes it will short if the electrical connections on the back are touching the metal. Use stand off screws. The computer type should work, or ordinary screws with a couple nuts as spacers.

Duke

[thequads]

thanks man, couldn't find stand off screws, but found these nylons spacers that worked well. Damn this 12 incher is getting heavy with the housing I built. The box you are using looks pretty light, can I ask how much it weighs? the box alone, then total with it assembled?

[Duke]

I don't have an empty box to weigh right now, but it would be ounces.

Complete mine weighed 2.1 lbs, so less than a kilo (but that's a bathroom scale measured with and without the monitor in my hand.)

[thequads]

cool, that's not too bad.. I would guess an extra pound for the larger 12 inch.

[vibrations]

selecting 'hdmi' just gives a 'no signal' message

ha! i was pushing the menu button on the remote rather than the enter button
only took me two days to figure that one out - even with 'menu' printed clearly on the remote button : )
anyway, hdmi works perfectly - what a nice little monitor!

i'm mounting it inside a plastic lunchbox with a cutout in the lid for the screen - surprisingly strong and rigid, and of course much lighter than aluminium. i'll glue a metal plate inside the box to use as a mountpoint

it should be pretty water resistant by the time i'm finished too, with a clear layer of acetate glued to the lid under the cutout, over the screen

keepin' it ghetto...

[Shrigg]

i'm mounting it inside a plastic lunchbox with a cutout in the lid for the screen - surprisingly strong and rigid, and of course much lighter than aluminium. i'll glue a metal plate inside the box to use as a mountpoint

it should be pretty water resistant by the time i'm finished too, with a clear layer of acetate glued to the lid under the cutout, over the screen

keepin' it ghetto...

I think that's a great idea for a case!

-Shrigg

[Duke]

i'm mounting it inside a plastic lunchbox with a cutout in the lid for the screen - surprisingly strong and rigid, and of course much lighter than aluminium. i'll glue a metal plate inside the box to use as a mount point.

it should be pretty water resistant by the time i'm finished too, with a clear layer of acetate glued to the lid under the cutout, over the screen

keepin' it ghetto...

What part of the tropics do you live in? Water and salt protection are so important there. Good idea about the lunch box. I lived on a Caribbean island for about a year and a half.

When I got back my computers were all corroded inside. Fortunately I transfered most of the data first before I trashed them.

The screen is the heaviest part though. I don't think the plastic saves too much weight.

Duke

[Shrigg]

At long last my DIY Samsun HD monitor is finished. I'm charging the battery now (Tekken from Newegg.com) and then I can start testing.

Duke,

Now that you've used the monitor a bit, how is the battery life of the Tekkeon battery? Is it this (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16855997152) one? They also make a smaller battery, the MP3300, as seen here. (http://www.tekkeon.com/site/products-mypowerall.php)

-Shrigg

[thequads]

I just did a test with the Tekkeon MP3450. I got 2 hours 45 minutes on my 12.1" lcd using component connection.

[lalam]

Hallo @ *,

has somebody ever connected a monitor via cinch? is this possible with an hv10? now building a helmet cam for snowboarding and ordered a 2,5 inches monitor for "in front of the eye" - mounting. means i need a composite signal because the monitor does only support this. does the hv10 have a composite out and if not - are there adapters? need the monitor only for tracking the actor ...

Thank you

[Duke]

Duke,

Now that you've used the monitor a bit, how is the battery life of the Tekkeon battery? Is it this (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16855997152) one? They also make a smaller battery, the MP3300, as seen here. (http://www.tekkeon.com/site/products-mypowerall.php)

-Shrigg

Yes, I have the 3450. They also make a gizmo that runs two parallel. There's another interesting aspect, you can set the voltages lower and it runs longer. I've run it on 9v easily and tested 7.5v. (It ran on 7.5v but I worried about it.)

I've run it 3 hrs 30 min on 9v. So doubled up probably 7 hours.
Duke

[Duke]

Hallo @ *,

has somebody ever connected a monitor via cinch? is this possible with an hv10? now building a helmet cam for snowboarding and ordered a 2,5 inches monitor for "in front of the eye" - mounting. means i need a composite signal because the monitor does only support this. does the hv10 have a composite out and if not - are there adapters? need the monitor only for tracking the actor ...

Thank you

I don't know cinch, but yes HV20 does composite and component. Composite is the ordinary yellow RCA plug.

Duke

[lalam]

Thank you. will try

[bluegrass]

I solved the power problem with my "Bruce monitor" by purchasing 3 Tekkon 3450's (expenseive yes, but they are great quality & have the versatility of providing a wide range of voltages for many uses). I carry one extra to my shoot & keep one charging back in my tent.

Didn't think about dropping the voltage back. That is a great idea, if you still get the brightness you need. I haven't run a time test yet but I would guess I'm getting about 2 to 3 hours out of a charge.

[Shrigg]

Yes, I have the 3450. They also make a gizmo that runs two parallel. There's another interesting aspect, you can set the voltages lower and it runs longer. I've run it on 9v easily and tested 7.5v. (It ran on 7.5v but I worried about it.)

I've run it 3 hrs 30 min on 9v. So doubled up probably 7 hours.
Duke

Great info, Duke! :hv20-smilie77:

The 3450's sound like very nice batteries. Of course the scrounger in me has me scouring the net for 12V Lithium Ion power packs at lower prices. But I haven't really found anything a whole lot cheaper, even franken-DIY looking stuff costs $ for anything with capacity

-Shrigg

[thequads]

IF you're in the U.S., they sell tekkeon like batteries(black and decker i believe) at home depot for about 20-30 bucks. I use one to extend my camcorder, only down side is that, unlike the tekkeon, you will need to supply a power adapter to plug into it.

crap nevermind abou the price, they were going for 40 bucks during Christmans, not on sale they range from 50-90 bucks, depending on the capicity.http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100597177

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100597179

[zephyrnoid]

Yes. The Tekkeon 3450's are nice. Not sure if it's relevant but I'm having a well known Jimmy Box fabricator build a carry box for the Tekkeon that will mount to the bottom of any camera and have a 1/4X20 Bushing below for tripod/stabilizer mounting as well. If the prototype works out, I'll start selling them.

[Duke]

The Tekkeon looks pretty slick by itself, why not just industrial velcro on the back of your monitor?

Or on the rails under your adapter?

Duke

[ForwardLooker]

I recieved my controller board with all the accessories from Diy-Beamer.com today and I noticed the menu board is slightly different to the ones i've seen from manhattanlacd.

It hasnt got lights above each button it just has one indicating the power which makes it slimmer and it has 3 mounting wholes which is gonna save me gettn some hot wheels track. the sensor is also flush with the buttons so it isnt being awkward.

I will post some pics when i get back home from my hols.

Edit: LCD just arrived

[ForwardLooker]

I tested my screen with a multi voltage adapter that goes up to 12v, but when i plugged it in the green power light shines and the screen flickers once then doesnt do anythin? I have everythin connected t in the wright places just wondering whats wrong?

I'm not at home at the moment so i cant do anymore test till tuesday but i was thinking wether the fact that the adpater was plugged into a multi plug adapter that had 2 lcd monitors plug into.

[vibrations]

when i plugged it in the green power light shines and the screen flickers once then doesnt do anythin

it needs at least 1.5A - i tried mine with a 500mA/12v adapter at first and it did the dim/flicker thing

[ForwardLooker]

it needs at least 1.5A - i tried mine with a 500mA/12v adapter at first and it did the dim/flicker thing

Ok Thanks vibrations, i also didnt check wether the center polarity was set to positive.

[CJ2008]

A question about this monitor. Does it have any sort of loop through?
All you need is the LCD kit and the controller?
Thanks

[vibrations]

Does it have any sort of loop through?
All you need is the LCD kit and the controller?


no loop through, though theoretically you could use an HDMI splitter between the camera and the monitor

and you'll need a battery or power supply, and of course some kind of casing for the screen and controller...

[ForwardLooker]

Has anyone tried the Tekkeon MP3400? this model number dosent seem to appear on the Tekkeon website.

[Duke]

I think they were listed on Newegg as a shorter run time so a little cheaper, but the same outside dimensions.

[chimneybrothers]

Hey guys. I don't know if anyone has asked this already. i've been following since the beginning but left of somewhere in the middle because i don't have the tools to put this all together. So i was wondering if anyone would be-able to put together a monitor for me, how much would all the parts cost/ how much for labor and such. I'm sure i'd still be cheaper than a store bought one. I would prefer a metal casing, i saw some of you were using wood, but if thats the only available i'd sacrifice.

haha i know this is a tall order. Thanks for a reply in advance.

[Duke]

Look at Bruce Allen's website in an earlier part of the thread. I think it was $800 instead of the $4,000 for a Marshall of lower resolution. Figure it's $400 for the kit, plus the case and other parts, then lots of labor.

[chimneybrothers]

Thanks Bruce. I am so impressed by your stuff. keep on keepin on. i wanna see more Rig enhancements.

[Sebastian]

[QUOTE=ForwardLooker;53354]I tested my screen with a multi voltage adapter that goes up to 12v, but when i plugged it in the green power light shines and the screen flickers once then doesnt do anythin? I have everythin connected t in the wright places just wondering whats wrong?


Did you get your monitor from Diy-Beamer to work yet? I was thinking of ordering one too.

[ForwardLooker]

[QUOTE=ForwardLooker;53354]I tested my screen with a multi voltage adapter that goes up to 12v, but when i plugged it in the green power light shines and the screen flickers once then doesnt do anythin? I have everythin connected t in the wright places just wondering whats wrong?


Did you get your monitor from Diy-Beamer to work yet? I was thinking of ordering one too.

Not yet,

the power supply i tried it with before only had 300mah and it needs 1.5 so waiting to get paid to get a Tekeeon 3450 battery.

I'm also getting a guy at the local university to CNC the front and back face of my housing then I will do the sides with wood.

[Sebastian]

Keep us updated! Has anyone btw had any experience with "the Carrion" yet?
www.lsdsgn.com (http://www.lsdsgn.com)

[thequads]

Keep us updated! Has anyone btw had any experience with "the Carrion" yet?
www.lsdsgn.com (http://www.lsdsgn.com)

those are pricey compared to the diy samsung.

At first I was upset that the 8.6" was no longer in stock, but now that I've been using the 12", I'm pretty happy, especially since I don't have to lean over to look at it when focusing.. I can have it on the a tripod infront of the camera and focus easily,

http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj232/the4quads/lcd3.jpg

http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj232/the4quads/lcda.jpg

crappy viewing angle though

http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj232/the4quads/lcd6.jpg

to keep your enclosure simple, don't bother cutting holes for buttons or inputs, just mount the button panel an leave and opening for the power and component or hdmi connection, like this:
http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj232/the4quads/lcd2.jpg

[twoneil]

those are pricey compared to the diy samsung.

At first I was upset that the 8.6" was no longer in stock, but now that I've been using the 12", I'm pretty happy, especially since I don't have to lean over to look at it when focusing.. I can have it on the a tripod infront of the camera and focus easily,

What's the type of the battery? and how long does it last?

The only thing that keeps me from buying the DIY samsung is the power supply.
I can't have it connected to an AC outlet all the time. It needs to have a battery.

Any suggestions?

[thequads]

^
it's the Tekkeon MP3450, lasts almost 3 hours.

[twoneil]

^
it's the Tekkeon MP3450, lasts almost 3 hours.

So it should work smoothly...any modifications to the battery or monitor?

[thequads]

nope, the tekkeon comes with everything you need to hook up power.

[leteeci]

Hey Guys!

How abot asking people at geardear.com how much would cost their version of housing for Samsung monitor?

Any thoughts on that?

:hv20-smilie70:

[Ulysses]

Okay, I'm far from tech-savvy, so let me ask you something.

All I need is this: http://www.diy-beamer.com/DE/store/comersus_viewItem.asp?idProduct=313
and a battery: http://www.expansys.at/p.aspx?i=150283
?

Then I build myself a case and that's all I'm gonna need? Anything I overlooked?

[Duke]

All I need is this: http://www.diy-beamer.com/DE/store/comersus_viewItem.asp?idProduct=313
and a battery: http://www.expansys.at/p.aspx?i=150283?
Then I build myself a case and that's all I'm gonna need? Anything I overlooked?

A couple dozen nuts and bolts, spacers, washers, some method of supporting the buttons, and the parts for whatever the method is for anchor points. (In my case I epoxied nuts into flat aluminum bar stock then bolted it and epoxied it to the box. Others used 2x4 stud hangers, etc.) Paint.

But yes, the case, screen, buttons, motherboard, and battery are 99% of it. Then just various screws, etc.

Duke

[Mosin-$4L]

Would you guys recommend me getting a 10.4 to be mounted on a multrigpro? (assuming its possible)

or are there any other alternative monitors I can mount for focusing a 35mm?

[Duke]

Would you guys recommend me getting a 10.4 to be mounted on a multrigpro? (assuming its possible) or are there any other alternative monitors I can mount for focusing a 35mm?

The size of the monitor is personal preference, and how good your eyes are at switching focus from the monitor to the talent.

Most people get either a 7" (compact and light but usually lower resolution), or a 10.4" (the smallest 1280 resolution), or 12" (1280 resolution, but the biggest).

7" is convenient, but often the focusing aspects aren't as good. 10.4 is a balance of size and resolution with compact ease of use. 12" is easiest to see but starting to get bulky.

Since we are talking about diagonal screen measurements a 10.4 screen is actually about 9.5" wide so you need a case about 11" (at least mine did.) A 12" screen is going to have a case 13-14" wide.

(In reality these are notebook computer screens attached to a TV motherboard intended for projection systems, but they do work!):hv20-smilie84:

If size wasn't an object I would just have found some 15" computer screen with HDI input then stuck on an adapter and a battery. With no speakers some thin frame ones are only 15". But a 15" wide monitor mounted on a 3" wide camera is kind of awkward. Of couse a 11" wide one isn't much better, but it's the smallest you can go with HD definition.

Look at some before you buy. :hv20-smilie110:
Duke

[Mosin-$4L]

Thanks Duke, but would you recommend the 10.4 to be mounted on a multirig?

Excuse my questions, but this is all a first for me (shoulder supports + 35mm adapter), and my main concern is not having to lose complete agility with this new setup

[Duke]

Thanks Duke, but would you recommend the 10.4 to be mounted on a multirig? Excuse my questions, but this is all a first for me (shoulder supports + 35mm adapter), and my main concern is not having to lose complete agility with this new setup

I've never had the multirigpro, but it's going to depend on how you mount it, how much it weighs, etc. The weight will cause torque side to side or front to back if not balanced. The monitor needs to be mounted securely.

If it is balanced the weight with the 35mm adaptor and the rig is no more than most prosumer cameras like the XL2, FX1, etc.

In my latest configuration the ball head is dropped lower to lower the center of gravity, and centered. When offset it caused too much torque. The multirigpro is simply 2 handles and a support.

I don't feel my 10.6 is too heavy or too big to be hand held, though my grips and support are hand made, so maybe not a direct comparison.

Duke

[Mosin-$4L]

Thanks Duke, really appreciated ;)

[ForwardLooker]

Does anyone know the cheapest place to get the Tekkeon mp3450 in the UK?

I have found one at value2you.co.uk (http://www.value2you.co.uk/erol.html#510x0&&http%3A%252F%252Fwww.google.co.uk%252Fsearch%3Fhl% 3Den%26client%3Dfirefox-a%26rls%3Dorg.mozilla%253Aen-GB%253Aofficial%26hs%3Dj6j%26q%3DMP3450%26btnG%3DS earch%26meta%3Dcr%253DcountryUK%257CcountryGB) and have been trying to phone them to see if they have any in stock but now answer!?

EDIT: there phone lines are down, got a very quick response through email and i have put a order through for the mp3450 which i should recieve tomorow.

I will be receieving a front and back face for my enclosure which i have had cnc'd today by a friend with a custom logo on it.

[Duke]

Show us a picture when you're done!

Duke

[ForwardLooker]

Show us a picture when you're done!

Duke

Definelty will duke,
i'm not getting the logo done anymore tho as it will take the guy ages to CAD.
For anyone intyerested I can reccomend buying a Tekkeon mp3450 from value2you.co.uk. It cost £79.95 Inc VAT + FREE Delivery, I received to day and they also threw in loads of extras like a usb hub.

[Mosin-$4L]

Great work guys, hopefully will order my 10" soon

[RSOULE]

Mosin,

Let us know if and where you find the 10.6 and related controller, button board, etc. Manhattan LCD is out of the 10.6 kits and will not have more. DIY-Beamer has the controller but not the kits (at least they don't show up in one's cart). I ended up going with the 12.1 but really wanted the 10".

[Duke]

You should ask them if it will work with the 10.6" screen. If it's the same resolution or a supported resolution and has the same plugs it should.

Duke

[Mosin-$4L]

Now I'm confused?

I thought that this http://www.diy-beamer.com/DE/store/c...?idProduct=313 had everything I needed?

without the case and batteries ofcourse

what am I missing? Sorry for the question, but I read the whole thread again now scratching my head @.@

[RSOULE]

This is all you need http://diy-beamer.com/EN/store/comersus_viewItem.asp?idProduct=314 but I don't think they actually have them in stock. Try to add it to your cart and you will get an out of stock message. I emailed them and never got a response. You can add the controller itself but not the kit.

[thequads]

You should ask them if it will work with the 10.6" screen. If it's the same resolution or a supported resolution and has the same plugs it should.

Duke

what are the chances of the 12.1" controller working with a 10.6" lcd?

[gfi]

Hi, here is Gerhard from Diy-Beamer.com. I want inform all of You, that the full =SET= of Samsung 10.6" WXGA LTN106W1-L01 LCD panel (same panel as the LTN106W2-L01 ,with same specifications) and the HDMI MST9U19A Controller will be added in about =one= week in the Shop
See You
Gerhard
DIY-BEAMER SHOP (http://www.Diy-Beamer.com)

[Shrigg]

what are the chances of the 12.1" controller working with a 10.6" lcd?

It will _not_ work, according to manhattan lcd. The 10.6 and 12.1 controllers look the same but are programmed differently. I went with a 12.1 too just because the 10.6's have gotten WAY too expensive/hard to find/controllers not available.

Supposedly the 12.1 is brighter and has better color although I'm wondering how the viewing angle concerns affect on-camera shooting. I'm planning on mounting mine right to the Shrigg Rig. Pictures soon of my setup!

-Shrigg

[thequads]

oh wells. the color and brightness are good. I found the side to side viewing angles are decent, it's just the up and down that kind of bloes.

[Shrigg]

^
it's the Tekkeon MP3450, lasts almost 3 hours.

What happens when the battery runs down, does the monitor just shut off or is there any odd behavior? Does it hurt anything to run it down?

I am thinking about using laptop batteries with my 12.1 kit (in order to afford two) and I am just wondering if the 12.1 kit has an electronic safeguard for when voltage drops.

-Shrigg

[thequads]

it shuts instantly shut's off, no warning, nothing funny, just goes blank.

As there being and safeguard, I have no idea.

[Shrigg]

it shuts instantly shut's off, no warning, nothing funny, just goes blank.

As there being and safeguard, I have no idea.

Thanks for the info. Soon I will have my 12.1 kit and I can play with it to my heart's content. I am considering this (http://www.all-battery.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1655) battery for power... 6600mah and only 10oz! That should mean nearly 6 hours runtime if you are getting three hours out of the Tekkeon 3450mah. One of these should be enough for most outdoor shoots, especially if I get in the habit of turning the monitor OFF between setups.

-Shrigg

[dthreatt]

I've worked on it today for some time, and the main unit is practically finished :)
Still need to put the button-panel in, but I can't do that until I buy some real buttons.

Here are a few pics of the outside:

http://home.quicknet.nl/qn/prive/schaft/xf/xfr-samsung2.jpg

http://home.quicknet.nl/qn/prive/schaft/xf/xfr-samsung3.jpg

http://home.quicknet.nl/qn/prive/schaft/xf/xfr-samsung1.jpg

On this pic it doesn't look all that well, but it's pretty straight in real life :)

http://home.quicknet.nl/qn/prive/schaft/xf/xfr-samsung4.jpg


Is the that 12.1 LCD?? if so....what are the exact dimensions???

[dthreatt]

If someone can give me the precise dimensions in millimeters I will make some professionally cut cases for these monitors.

[Shrigg]

If someone can give me the precise dimensions in millimeters I will make some professionally cut cases for these monitors.

I believe XFR used the now unavailable 10.6 but here are dimensions for the 12.1, and it MST controller + button panel. Remember that the MST controller needs ventilation room of around an inch.

Also if you would like to use them for your design here are google sketchup models of the 12.1 panel (http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/details?mid=529205165926d60ff8610cd8fbf1c05), MST controller (http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/details?mid=338680df254e2cb282be9b57f3865e7e) and button panel (http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/details?mid=1a6ef87e1996e88d724ff75d219c13).

Hope this helps!

I want to design a case which has room for this 4400 mah Li Ion battery (http://www.all-battery.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1511) and its charger (http://www.all-battery.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=478) all inside the case. Then all I would need to do is plug the monitor in to charge it, unplug to run on batteries.

Li Ion batteries are good enough to do this... Look how everyone runs their laptops constantly plugged in!

-Shrigg

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc16/Quasi_LL/121_ToshibaLCD.jpg

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc16/Quasi_LL/121_ControllerMeasurements.jpg

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc16/Quasi_LL/121_ControllerOSDMeasurements.jpg

[dthreatt]

I believe XFR used the now unavailable 10.6 but here are dimensions for the 12.1, and it MST controller + button panel. Remember that the MST controller needs ventilation room of around an inch.

Also if you would like to use them for your design here are google sketchup models of the 12.1 panel (http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/details?mid=529205165926d60ff8610cd8fbf1c05), MST controller (http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/details?mid=338680df254e2cb282be9b57f3865e7e) and button panel (http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/details?mid=1a6ef87e1996e88d724ff75d219c13).

Hope this helps!

I want to design a case which has room for this 4400 mah Li Ion battery (http://www.all-battery.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1511) and its charger (http://www.all-battery.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=478) all inside the case. Then all I would need to do is plug the monitor in to charge it, unplug to run on batteries.

Li Ion batteries are good enough to do this... Look how everyone runs their laptops constantly plugged in!

-Shrigg

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc16/Quasi_LL/121_ToshibaLCD.jpg

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc16/Quasi_LL/121_ControllerMeasurements.jpg

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc16/Quasi_LL/121_ControllerOSDMeasurements.jpg


You are awesome. I am going to CAD the case up to. I think I would rather add a lion battery mount to the outside of the case...so that people could use different types of batteries. I could get mounts for EACH type of battery. This is easy. I would like to know how many people are interested in this setup so I can go ahead and make the first run next Monday.

[Shrigg]

Count me in!!!


-Shrigg

[dthreatt]

Count me in!!!


-Shrigg

can u tell me in detail what the buttons control??? trying to write this up and see if I can generate some interest.

[thequads]

i'm interested if it's light weight.

[jorenc]

this kit looks very promising! I just ordered the 12.1, a couple mp 3450 batteries, and 2 of Duke's cases (hoping they'll fit the larger monitor). One question while I wait for my kit: Has anyone tested the TV receiver? What channels does it receive? I'd like to send video wirelessly to this monitor from my DIY steadicam. I've found TV TX kits relatively cheap HERE (http://www.northcountryradio.com/Kitpages/atvjr.htm), but they only work on certain tv channels. By getting a transmitter to work with the on board receiver, I think it would reduce bulk and hassle.

Any thoughts?

[RSOULE]

I ordered a project case from the same place as Duke but I haven't received it yet. I'd be interested in your case dthreatt (of course...depending on cost:)

[Shrigg]

I ordered a project case from the same place as Duke but I haven't received it yet. I'd be interested in your case dthreatt (of course...depending on cost:)

Can someone post a link to the cap box cases like Duke used?

Thanks,
Shrigg

[RSOULE]

Shrigg,

I ordered from http://www.action-electronics.com/lmcapcov.htm as I believe Duke did. He has the 10.6 screen and used the 11X7X2 case. I have the 12.1 screen so I ordered the 12X8X2.5 case. I haven't received the kit or the case yet (I believe I will have both by the end of the week). We ordered were the Cap Cover Chassis (perforated).

[Shrigg]

Yes, I have the 3450. They also make a gizmo that runs two parallel. There's another interesting aspect, you can set the voltages lower and it runs longer. I've run it on 9v easily and tested 7.5v. (It ran on 7.5v but I worried about it.)

I've run it 3 hrs 30 min on 9v. So doubled up probably 7 hours.
Duke

Duke,

Rereading your old posts answered my own question about whether these monitors would run on lower voltages.

I couldn't get an answer out of Johnzo, who suggested I use a 12V lawn mower battery. He didn't much understand my desire to keep this monitor LIGHT!!

Based on your experience, I think the 11.1V Li Ion batteries I found will work fine. Heck, I may even try to run it with 9V!

Now you've really got me thinking... Would an HV20 battery work (7.4V) ? That would be the ultimate in convenience, same battery for camera and monitor!

Has anyone tried HV20 batteries with these kit monitors?

-Shrigg

[ForwardLooker]

I have finished my 10.6" monitor now, i'll get some pics up soon i'm just fighting a pc virus at the mo and need to reformat my computer :hv20-smilie102:

Edit:

Here are the pics of my 10.6":

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii3/bf_media/HV20-Forum/fronttop.jpg
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii3/bf_media/HV20-Forum/fronton.jpg
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii3/bf_media/HV20-Forum/side_light.jpg
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii3/bf_media/HV20-Forum/full_back.jpg
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii3/bf_media/HV20-Forum/back.jpg
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii3/bf_media/HV20-Forum/mount.jpg
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii3/bf_media/HV20-Forum/lookthrough.jpg
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii3/bf_media/HV20-Forum/fixing.jpg

[leteeci]

Wow, nice housing!!

And great pics; I am sold with resolution of that monitor!

Thanks

[Shrigg]

I have finished my 10.6" monitor now, i'll get some pics up soon i'm just fighting a pc virus at the mo and need to reformat my computer :hv20-smilie102:


What does yours weigh, forwardlooker?

-Shrigg

[ForwardLooker]

Hi shrigg,

I cant give you a precise weight as i have no scales but what i can sayis it is not that much heavier than the vh20, maybe 1 1/2 hv20s.

[Duke]

Looks great. :hv20-smilie154: Give us some details please. I'm always curious to see how other people solved the same problems.

a) Since it's not a cap box, what are your outside dimensions?

b) I can't see, but what did you do to solve the button issues? IR remote?

c) Is the black knob on the back for a clip our mount?

d) How did you mount the screen? And did you flip it? (I wish I could scroll up while writing.)

Good job:hv20-smilie77:,
Duke

[ForwardLooker]

Looks great. :hv20-smilie154: Give us some details please. I'm always curious to see how other people solved the same problems.

a) Since it's not a cap box, what are your outside dimensions?

b) I can't see, but what did you do to solve the button issues? IR remote?

c) Is the black knob on the back for a clip our mount?

d) How did you mount the screen? And did you flip it? (I wish I could scroll up while writing.)

Good job:hv20-smilie77:,
Duke

thanks duke,

heres the answers:

a) width 260.2mm, height 170.2mm and depth 39mm, I have a 15mm border around the viewable area.

b) If you look at the 3rd picture down, you should see the green power light. I basically mounted the buttons inside behind the side panel then drilled two holes for the light and IR sensor, so basically i'm gonna use my controller.
If you look at the 7th picture down you can see the menu board mounted to the left side.

c) yes the black knob is for mounting to a circular quick release plate like this 1:

http://www.adorama.com/images/Product/GTQRP500.JPG

I also drilled 2 more wholes for the quick plate if you look at the back of the monitor.

d) I mounted screen upside down so the connectors are at the bottom. I used double sided tape first then hot glue, it feels very firmly on there and screen is light so no stress on it. I will have to see if its ok after long usage then decide if i need to secure it differently.

:hv20-smilie77:

[Shrigg]

Looks great. :hv20-smilie154: ...
Good job:hv20-smilie77:,
Duke

Duke,
Can you tell me more about running your monitor at lower voltAGE Than 12V? I am looking into using 11.1V Li Ion batteries and need to know if the controller will run at this voltage. (see earlier posts for links) From your earlier post, I think it will, can u clarify???

Thanks,
-Shrigg

[ForwardLooker]

The 10.6 can run on as low as 9v, i guess more to do with the mah. I presume if your batteries are higher than 1.5mah than you'll be ok.

[Shrigg]

These batteries (http://www.all-battery.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1511) are 11.1 V Li Ion and are rated at 4400mah. I have the 12.1 kit but it seems that it is the controller that needs a certain voltage since the actual lcd panels only run on 3 or 4 volts. Here is the pdf for the Toshiba 12.1 display (http://www.toshiba.com/taec/components/Datasheet/LCD/LTD121EX1S.pdf) which mentions the voltage that is required to power the panel itself.

-Shrigg

[dthreatt]

I am trying to take over where Bruce Allen left off. I am waiting on a prototype case from my machine shop now to sell the Manhattan LCD.

Weight is 436 grams without the electronics.

315 x 50 x 233 outside dimensions

14.5 x 210 for the connectors

262 x 158 for the lcd

This is for the 12.1 monitor

color powder coated black.

1117

1118

1119

1120

1121

Does anyone have any other suggestions???

[thequads]

cool, although I think you can make the bezel/frame a lot thinner to make the case more compact, which is a good thing. Actually I think the thinner you can get the bezel the better. The controller would still fit since it's smaller than the lcd.

[Shrigg]

cool, although I think you can make the bezel/frame a lot thinner to make the case more compact, which is a good thing. Actually I think the thinner you can get the bezel the better. The controller would still fit since it's smaller than the lcd.

I agree on the less is more thing. I want the smallest, lightest monitor possible that will still mount 1/4-20 on at least the bottom. I'm constructing my case exactly the size of the LCD panel plus just the wall thickness of the aluminum. I am making the frame by just butting the monitor tight into aluminum C-channel. Overall depth or thickness is just going to be a function of controller ventilation. Seems like everyone is making theirs 2" but I am going to try to keep mine under an inch and a half

-Shrigg

[Duke]

a) width 260.2mm, height 170.2mm and depth 39mm, I have a 15mm border around the viewable area.

That's 10.26 x 6.7 x 1.5". Nice to get the size reduction. I was lazy and had my doubts about getting square corners with hand tools, which was born out when I cut openings.


d) I mounted screen upside down so the connectors are at the bottom. I used double sided tape first then hot glue, it feels very firmly on there and screen is light so no stress on it. I will have to see if its ok after long usage then decide if i need to secure it differently.


I think the upside down screen is the way to go. Great minds think alike.:hv20-smilie70:

I would be extremely careful about the screen with hot glue and double sided tape though. You know the screen gets hot, and by definition hot glue will melt.

There are heat resistant epoxies. JB Weld is rated to 300 degrees F (149C) and has a little safety margin above that. Even if you just used a few blobs to reinforce what you already have. I'd hate to hear the screen dropped onto the MB and shorted it after all this effort.

Duke

[ForwardLooker]

I would be extremely careful about the screen with hot glue and double sided tape though. You know the screen gets hot, and by definition hot glue will melt.
There are heat resistant epoxies. JB Weld is rated to 300 degrees F (149C) and has a little safety margin above that. Even if you just used a few blobs to reinforce what you already have. I'd hate to hear the screen dropped onto the MB and shorted it after all this effort.
Duke

hey Duke thanks for that info is this the stuff (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/J-B-WELD-original-cold-weld-dont-bin-it-jb-weld-it_W0QQitemZ320227380529QQihZ011QQcategoryZ30922QQ ssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem) i need?

I think I'll remove the hot glue and replace it with the weld, i have a shoot coming up at the end of the month and i don't want my screen falling out!

[Duke]

hey Duke thanks for that info is this the stuff (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/J-B-WELD-original-cold-weld-dont-bin-it-jb-weld-it_W0QQitemZ320227380529QQihZ011QQcategoryZ30922QQ ssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem) i need?

Yes. There's a 4 minute type, and a 4 hour type, but yes. I like the 4 minute stuff, but I'm impatient. Both are good.

Duke

[Shrigg]

1/4-20 nuts for mounting. That's what I did on three sides. That way you can flip it if you want.

Duke

Duke,
How did you mount the 1/4-20 nuts? I have not figured out a way to do this...

-Shrigg

[dthreatt]

cool, although I think you can make the bezel/frame a lot thinner to make the case more compact, which is a good thing. Actually I think the thinner you can get the bezel the better. The controller would still fit since it's smaller than the lcd.

I would but because of the way the sides fold into the front and back halves...to screw together....that the bezel needs to be larger...let me look into a different design.

[ForwardLooker]

Yes. There's a 4 minute type, and a 4 hour type, but yes. I like the 4 minute stuff, but I'm impatient. Both are good.
Duke

Thanks duke, ha yeh i can be impatient to :hv20-smilie03: so found the 4minute one.

[Duke]

How did you mount the 1/4-20 nuts? I have not figured out a way to do this...

It's on another post above, but here's a quick description. Take an 1/8 inch flat bar around 4" long. Drill a ~1/2" hole in the middle of it. (Whatever size to snuggly fit the nut in the hole.)

Put a piece of slick paper down, like an advertisement, so the epoxy doesn't stick. Put a 1/4" screw in the nut (not sticking out the other side) as a temporary handle and to see if the screw is straight in the next step. Put the 4" bar flat on the paper.

Put JB Weld around the sides of the nut and put the nut in the hole. Add a little more JB Weld until the whole around the nut is filled in. Use the screw/handle to make sure the nut is straight and flat. It's important that the nut and the flat bar both be flat against the paper. That flat side will be against the case later on.

When this dries test fit the bar in the case to see where you need to drill the hole in the case. Mark and CAREFULLY drill the case with a 1/4" hole.

I mounted the bar onto the case with both JB Weld and small screws, which may have been overkill but I don't think it will come loose.

Since the nut is bigger than 1/4" (the OD is 1/2") the nut will compress against the case

Hope that helps.
Duke

[Duke]

I would but because of the way the sides fold into the front and back halves...to screw together....that the bezel needs to be larger...let me look into a different design.

If the bezel is less than a half inch it presents many other design challenges. You need space for screws front to back and/or S clips, or channel, or spacers. Not that it can't be done, but it limits your options.

Actually I'd love to see someone take the time to figure out how to do it that way.

Duke

[dthreatt]

1153

1154

1155

1157

1158

thinner yet

33mm thick...... bezel is 5 and 7mm thick

overall 178 x 282 x 33

[thequads]

dude awesome, how much do you think you'll be selling those for?

You know what would also be cool, some sort of screen lid/cover for transportation, something simple and light.

But hey, when you're done with this you should def hit up all them other video boards out there.

[Shrigg]

It's on another post above, but here's a quick description. ...

Hope that helps.
Duke

Thanks Duke. This thread got so big I have forgotten parts of it!

-Shrigg

[Shrigg]

thinner yet

33mm thick...... bezel is 5 and 7mm thick

overall 178 x 282 x 33

Looking great Derrick!!!!

-Shrigg

[Mosin-$4L]

1153

1154

1155

1157

1158

thinner yet

33mm thick...... bezel is 5 and 7mm thick

overall 178 x 282 x 33

any updates on that design or price dthreatt?

[dthreatt]

any updates on that design or price dthreatt?

I am not going to make a business out of it....


but....if you want one....and we can get 25 people to pre-order I can make them for about $60 each.


Otherwise....1 will cost $400 scale slides down from there.

[mtbr7]

at about $60, i'm in....at $400, I'm out.

[JoachimF]

I'm in on it for about $60!

[JoachimF]

Btw, am I missing something here?

I want inform all of You, that the full =SET= of Samsung 10.6" WXGA LTN106W1-L01 LCD panel (same panel as the LTN106W2-L01 ,with same specifications) and the HDMI MST9U19A Controller will be added in about =one= week in the Shop

And at manhattanlcd.com the 10.6" is back... Or was it just never removed? If the 10.6"s are back in business I'm more interested in those than the 12".

I'm confused...

[ForwardLooker]

Btw, am I missing something here?


And at manhattanlcd.com the 10.6" is back... Or was it just never removed? If the 10.6"s are back in business I'm more interested in those than the 12".

I'm confused...

It would appear that manhattanlcd.com are stocking the 10.6" kit again even tho they said they wouldnt :hv20-smilie51:

Diy-beamer.com (http://diy-beamer.com/EN/store/comersus_listItems.asp?idCategory=157) only stock the 10.6" kit so you can get it from there anyway. they also sell the controllers seprately which come with the menu board, inverter and all cables.

You can still buy the 10.6" LCD from ebay (http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-LTN106W1-L01-10-6-WXGA-GLOSSY-LCD-A_W0QQitemZ310026719847QQihZ021QQcategoryZ31569QQr dZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQ_trksidZp1638.m118.l1247QQcm dZViewItem) as I did.

I'm not sure why some people say that you cant get the 10.6" anymore :hv20-smilie51:

[mtbr7]

Yeah, Manhattan told me that they woulld not have them again and Beamer didn't have the kits in stock. The 10.6 lcd were available but expensive with the Beamer controller. After talking with Manhattan, I went with the 12.1....I guess I should have waited.