Simon Hughes
2007 July 26th, 11:56
I’m looking for some advice here. This weekend, I’m going to the Olympic Peninsula (WA) and I will be taking my HV20. I intend to shoot the beaches, ocean etc, and perhaps the rainforest. My question is whether or not I should use Cine mode? Let me state first that I will not be shooting in 24p. Although I’d love to try it, I have no confidence in this mode given the workflow issues. Even though I have Final Cut Pro now (rather than FCE), it just seems that every post about 24p workflow is contradicted by the next. Considering that this “capability” was one reason I bought the HV20, I find this extraordinarily frustrating!
I will be shooting almost exclusively on a tripod with fluid head, and more than likely with a polarizing filter, and where appropriate, ND grads. I also have a 3-stop ND in case I need the extra ability to limit brightness. My aim is to keep the shutter as close to 1/48th as possible while keeping the aperture into the mid, if not low ranges to minimize diffraction on the high end and obtain as much depth of field on the low end. I will probably always have either the WD-H43 on, or in some cases the TL-H43 mounted.
As mentioned, I will be shooting in 1080i because (apart from the above stated avoidance of 24p) I want to be able to assemble this footage with other 1080i footage I took a couple of weeks ago in the North Cascades. This previous footage was not shot in Cine mode, but I want to try it now as I noticed I had issues with some highlights and I feel the Cine mode would do better, especially given the subject matter of water with bright highlights etc.
Is there any specific advice you would give as to my planned methods, or suggestions as to other operating modes etc.
Finally, if anyone else is currently shooting in 24p and completing a full 24p workflow (with the appropriate and successful pulldown removal) on a Mac, using FCP, I’d love to know the detailed workflow. As I state above, it seems to me that many forum members beside myself are not confident that this is being successfully done.
Cheers,
Simon
I will be shooting almost exclusively on a tripod with fluid head, and more than likely with a polarizing filter, and where appropriate, ND grads. I also have a 3-stop ND in case I need the extra ability to limit brightness. My aim is to keep the shutter as close to 1/48th as possible while keeping the aperture into the mid, if not low ranges to minimize diffraction on the high end and obtain as much depth of field on the low end. I will probably always have either the WD-H43 on, or in some cases the TL-H43 mounted.
As mentioned, I will be shooting in 1080i because (apart from the above stated avoidance of 24p) I want to be able to assemble this footage with other 1080i footage I took a couple of weeks ago in the North Cascades. This previous footage was not shot in Cine mode, but I want to try it now as I noticed I had issues with some highlights and I feel the Cine mode would do better, especially given the subject matter of water with bright highlights etc.
Is there any specific advice you would give as to my planned methods, or suggestions as to other operating modes etc.
Finally, if anyone else is currently shooting in 24p and completing a full 24p workflow (with the appropriate and successful pulldown removal) on a Mac, using FCP, I’d love to know the detailed workflow. As I state above, it seems to me that many forum members beside myself are not confident that this is being successfully done.
Cheers,
Simon